In a similar way as I did the MS2 PnP build, I'm in the process of building a MS3 PnP. Instructions here.
Not quite finished yet, parts for the alternator circuit are on backorder :(.
Remarks or additions welcome.

 

will the daughterboard clear the connector? or are you stacking an extra socket(s)?

 

i'm guessing not since he posted on msextra asking if he could cut a big notch out of it! haha.

 

Define big. I'm really not a fan of the monstrous wiring loom with 2 DB37's and the (unprotected) 64 pin connector.
It fits very well actually. MS3X fits as normal with wiring between the 2 pcb's.

You could stack an extra socket to clear the connector, but that would mean modifying the left endplate. I found it easier to cut a piece of the cpu. With enough backlight, you can clearly see that there's nothing there.

The yellow connector can be bolted to the heatsink through the existing mounting holes of Q12 and Q16. No need to drill a single hole.

 

oh, no copper.

also i guess you dont need the second db37 for the expander!

 

Yup, removed the DB37 and soldered the wires straight to the 64pin connector.

 

That is such a neat solution

After I built mine, I was thinking of something similar that would be tidier, maybe even some type of flexible connection from the V3 to MS3 so they could be placed side by side in a flatter box.

 

(Posting from my phone.)

They just need to make a small board to fit the daughter only need a dbor 15 for input on it and ms3x can sit beside.

 

you are braver than I sir...


im hoping to replace the V3 board altogether for an upcoming project, but so far its only a loose idea on paper.

 

Do my pictures show? Ever since the forum blocked my country, posting has been a pain :(. I only see the first picture, the others every now and then.
Editing a post usually sends me to a broken link .

Anyway, maybe by stacking an extra socket would work, it would be thight though. You'd only have to enlarge the holes for the SD and USB. Might be worth looking into by those who are afraid of cutting the daughterboard.

 

pictures show fine.

pretty awesome solution.

did you make a new endplate for the db37 side or just leave open holes? because if you made a new one... you can make a second new one.

or with help.
http://www.lmbheeger.com/products.asp?catid=68

 

Yeah, I used one of those for one of my previous builds, but I just left the holes open now. A bit of duct tape will do fine .

 

there are db37 block off plates. I have one, but would be worth it to send to Belgium.

 

Probably too expensive, besides I need 2. Thx though.
I might find something in some old pc's at work.

 

this week I'll be testing the ms3-controlled alternator circuit. it's pretty simple. based on this image:



Use a TIP120 + TIP125 and the three resistors. hook it to a spare output (I pick FIDLE) and set it thusly:

*checkmark* Enabled
Power on value 0
Trigger value 1
condition 1: battery voltage < 14.0 (hysteresis 0.1 or whatever)
AND
condition 2: rpm > 600 (hysteresis 30ish)

presumably it's fast enough to handle alternator control.. I guess I'll see.

on the bench, it certainly seems to work as it should. is there a voltage limit on the alternator input or does it matter?

Thoughts?

 

Looks like a real neat solution. Certainly a lot easier to build than what Jason's schematic. I just finished my build this weekend. Wish I saw this earlier, it would have saved me a 25 mile trip to go get the transistors.
Is this the way other ecu's do it?

 

It could be... it's just a positive output instead of a negative output. no doubt 'universal' ecus have this kind of setup.

 

Not to thread hijack, but any progress on this alternator control circuit? I'm getting ready to build my MS3x and it sure would be nice to just use that circuit instead of building Jason's.

 

doesn't switch fast enough.

 

yeah, it makes batt voltage oscillate and that makes everything else oscillate so in short DO NOT USE IT.

however if you want to do something creative, you can hook the output of the known working alternator circuit that goes to the field coil to the place in the above where it says +12 and the output of the above to the field coil and then set the output to only be enabled for over 450 rpm so it doesn't charge during cranking and make your belt squeal for 20 seconds every time you start your car.