MS3 + Fab9COP = no tach
#1
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First of let me start by saying "I'm sorry".
Having such a brain fart over this.
Have a VVT motor in my 92 with an MSLabs MS3basic and the Fab9 COP kit.
Everything works great but for the life of me I can't figure out how to get the tach to work.
The 1K ohm (1K ohm 1/4 watt) resistor bit doesn't work either in the diagnostic port or at the gutted igniter.
I'm told that the MS3 tach out is pin #10.
Do I just hook that straight up to the tach ? No resistor, nothing ??
I finally have a great running car and I don't want to screw anything up. I'll do anything mechanical but the electrical stuff frightens me.
Having such a brain fart over this.
Have a VVT motor in my 92 with an MSLabs MS3basic and the Fab9 COP kit.
Everything works great but for the life of me I can't figure out how to get the tach to work.
The 1K ohm (1K ohm 1/4 watt) resistor bit doesn't work either in the diagnostic port or at the gutted igniter.
I'm told that the MS3 tach out is pin #10.
Do I just hook that straight up to the tach ? No resistor, nothing ??
I finally have a great running car and I don't want to screw anything up. I'll do anything mechanical but the electrical stuff frightens me.
#9
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I'd either do what reverant says: wire pin #10 to under the dash and into the cluster tach wire.
or move it from Pin10 to 2I and then at the ignitor loom in the bay connect the bl/y and b/w wires. That will send the tach signal to the ignitor, and connecting it to the bl/y wiere will send it to the dash tach.
or move it from Pin10 to 2I and then at the ignitor loom in the bay connect the bl/y and b/w wires. That will send the tach signal to the ignitor, and connecting it to the bl/y wiere will send it to the dash tach.
#10
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Well, I don't want to just throw lose wires up under the dash so I finally found a wiring diagram and here's what I found.
1H from cluster (yellow-blue) runs to the igniter plug D where I can jump it with E (black-white) which takes me all the way to the ECU.
Now all I have to figure out is which one is pin #10.
1H from cluster (yellow-blue) runs to the igniter plug D where I can jump it with E (black-white) which takes me all the way to the ECU.
Now all I have to figure out is which one is pin #10.
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So I got the tach running today using the stock wiring and jumping them in the gutted igniter. At the ECU I de-pinned the black/white wire (2E) and hooked it up to pin #10 on the DB37 connector.
Workes like a charm but I instantly got a check engine light and a knock sensor fault. I don't think I have one of those so I disabled it using Tuner Studio and all is well.
I guess the black/white wire in 2E is shared.
Workes like a charm but I instantly got a check engine light and a knock sensor fault. I don't think I have one of those so I disabled it using Tuner Studio and all is well.
I guess the black/white wire in 2E is shared.
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Well, I don't want to just throw lose wires up under the dash so I finally found a wiring diagram and here's what I found.
1H from cluster (yellow-blue) runs to the igniter plug D where I can jump it with E (black-white) which takes me all the way to the ECU.
Now all I have to figure out is which one is pin #10.
1H from cluster (yellow-blue) runs to the igniter plug D where I can jump it with E (black-white) which takes me all the way to the ECU.
Now all I have to figure out is which one is pin #10.
Nice job not reading my post and spending time figuring out exactly what I told you to do...
#15
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I did read what you wrote and acted on it .
My last post was just an ending, a full stop if you like to the thread.
You know, so this doesn't just sit there as one of those abandoned threads with no answer. Might help a searching "noob" in the future.
My last post was just an ending, a full stop if you like to the thread.
You know, so this doesn't just sit there as one of those abandoned threads with no answer. Might help a searching "noob" in the future.
#16
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I find that I read trough thread after thread with the same issue that I had and it just dies. It makes this process very frustrating.
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