MS install instructions
#1
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Hello,
I bought an MS for my 1.6L with the boomslang harness from Braineack. He mentioned having some step-by-step instructions on installing this, but I guess he's been away so he hasn't gotten to send them to me yet..
Anyone have a copy I can take a look at? I'm not very well versed with such things so I'd feel more comfortable with some nice handholding while I install this!
Thanks,
Tomaj
I bought an MS for my 1.6L with the boomslang harness from Braineack. He mentioned having some step-by-step instructions on installing this, but I guess he's been away so he hasn't gotten to send them to me yet..
Anyone have a copy I can take a look at? I'm not very well versed with such things so I'd feel more comfortable with some nice handholding while I install this!
Thanks,
Tomaj
#3
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Hey,
Thanks for posting that link, I took a quick look.
I saw lots of info on how to build the unit and how to configure the software etc, but what I still need (newbie here) is actual installation instructions into the car.
I'm sure i could scrape together all the required info, but I don't want to make a costly mistake so if this info exists somewhere pre-packaged i'd be very happy to see it!
Thanks,
Tomaj
Thanks for posting that link, I took a quick look.
I saw lots of info on how to build the unit and how to configure the software etc, but what I still need (newbie here) is actual installation instructions into the car.
I'm sure i could scrape together all the required info, but I don't want to make a costly mistake so if this info exists somewhere pre-packaged i'd be very happy to see it!
Thanks,
Tomaj
#4
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if you have a compleated boomslang and MS, you plug one end of the boomslang into the cars harness, the other side into the stock ECU, and the db plug goes into the MS, then you mount the MS wherever you want...
#5
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MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com
The only thing thats different is that you need to figure out how to mount it and use the boomslang to connect to it. Follow everything else.
The only thing thats different is that you need to figure out how to mount it and use the boomslang to connect to it. Follow everything else.
#10
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I had a few minutes to play with the car, here's my situation..
I uncovered the ECU using the instructions here:
MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com
I removed the 10 amp fuse, jumped F/P to GND in the diag box, hooked up the MAP tube, and hooked up the wiring harness.
I didn't hook up the IAT sensor becuase i am not able to mount it yet.
I tried to turn over the car, but it just cranks and doesn't fire up. Is that because of the IAT sensor? did I do something else wrong?
FWIW i see two lights on the Ms light up.. the one nearest to the DB9 output and the one further away, but not the middle one.
I thought the IAT was optional, so i could run the car without it until i get the bung installed.
Please give me some ideas!
Thanks,
Tomaj
I uncovered the ECU using the instructions here:
MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com
I removed the 10 amp fuse, jumped F/P to GND in the diag box, hooked up the MAP tube, and hooked up the wiring harness.
I didn't hook up the IAT sensor becuase i am not able to mount it yet.
I tried to turn over the car, but it just cranks and doesn't fire up. Is that because of the IAT sensor? did I do something else wrong?
FWIW i see two lights on the Ms light up.. the one nearest to the DB9 output and the one further away, but not the middle one.
I thought the IAT was optional, so i could run the car without it until i get the bung installed.
Please give me some ideas!
Thanks,
Tomaj
#11
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Removal of the "St Sign" fuse is needed only with the MSPNP. And you can live without the IAT sensor for the moment.
For now, you need to verify some basics. Get a white paint pen and highlight the timing mark on your pulley. Disconnect the fuel injectors, attach a timing gun to the #1 plug wire (you may need to power the gun externally) and observe the timing mark while someone cranks the engine. Is the mark 180° out, in which case you'll not be able to find it at all? If so, swap the plug wires between the two coils and try again. If it's in the right hemisphere but still some way from the 10 line on the indicator, adjust the Trigger Angle in Spark -> Spark Settings until you get it where you need it. Have the Fixed Angle set to 10 while you're doing this.
Once you've got the mark to where it's near 10°BTDC when cranking, re-connect the injectors. It should start. If not, you need to adjust cranking fuel.
For now, you need to verify some basics. Get a white paint pen and highlight the timing mark on your pulley. Disconnect the fuel injectors, attach a timing gun to the #1 plug wire (you may need to power the gun externally) and observe the timing mark while someone cranks the engine. Is the mark 180° out, in which case you'll not be able to find it at all? If so, swap the plug wires between the two coils and try again. If it's in the right hemisphere but still some way from the 10 line on the indicator, adjust the Trigger Angle in Spark -> Spark Settings until you get it where you need it. Have the Fixed Angle set to 10 while you're doing this.
Once you've got the mark to where it's near 10°BTDC when cranking, re-connect the injectors. It should start. If not, you need to adjust cranking fuel.
#12
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Hey Joe,
Thanks for the info.. on your suggestion i reinserted the 10 amp fuse.
I got megatune running, though i'm not sure which version i was supposed to get... i tried a couple and settled on the 'mspnp' version, though no matter which profile i load, it complains that the
"controller code does not match signature in msns-extra.ini", or some variation. it then says various combinations of wwhat is in the file vs. what it receives from the controller..
In any eventt i get some data showing up on the dials, namely temperature stuff while the car is not on, and engine MAP, spark advance, and AFR when cranking..
FWIW the AFR goes thru the roof while cranking.. could that indicate no fuel?
i dont have anyone here that can help me out so i can check the timing, i'll probably have to wait a couple of days til i can do that.
Sorry for being such a newbie.. i try to read the stuff on the web but there's a huge volume of information and i feel like i'm searching for a needle in a haystack.
-tomaj
Thanks for the info.. on your suggestion i reinserted the 10 amp fuse.
I got megatune running, though i'm not sure which version i was supposed to get... i tried a couple and settled on the 'mspnp' version, though no matter which profile i load, it complains that the
"controller code does not match signature in msns-extra.ini", or some variation. it then says various combinations of wwhat is in the file vs. what it receives from the controller..
In any eventt i get some data showing up on the dials, namely temperature stuff while the car is not on, and engine MAP, spark advance, and AFR when cranking..
FWIW the AFR goes thru the roof while cranking.. could that indicate no fuel?
i dont have anyone here that can help me out so i can check the timing, i'll probably have to wait a couple of days til i can do that.
Sorry for being such a newbie.. i try to read the stuff on the web but there's a huge volume of information and i feel like i'm searching for a needle in a haystack.
-tomaj
#13
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This is always the hard part- getting started.
The error about the code signature mismatch is because Megatune itself is fairly generic, and there is a file, called msns-extra.ini, which tells MT what kind of MS its connected to and how to behave. This file is bundled in with the firmware distributions. So when you load new firmware onto the MS itself, you put the msns-extra.ini that came with it into the Megatune directory. (It's in one of the subs, and I'm not at my own PC right now so I can't reember which. Maybe \MtCfg.)
You also have to go into Megatune Configurator (a seperate application) and tell MT that it's goig to be using an MSnS-Extra, which O2 sensor you have, etc.
The error about the code signature mismatch is because Megatune itself is fairly generic, and there is a file, called msns-extra.ini, which tells MT what kind of MS its connected to and how to behave. This file is bundled in with the firmware distributions. So when you load new firmware onto the MS itself, you put the msns-extra.ini that came with it into the Megatune directory. (It's in one of the subs, and I'm not at my own PC right now so I can't reember which. Maybe \MtCfg.)
You also have to go into Megatune Configurator (a seperate application) and tell MT that it's goig to be using an MSnS-Extra, which O2 sensor you have, etc.
#14
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Hello,
The car still doesnt start![](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I asked a friend to come over to help with the diagnosis. With just the regular ECU, the timing was fine, right around 10 degree btdc, the car started up immediately..
With the MS, the timing light wouldnt turn on automatically, only if i pressed the button manually, which i guess would indicate no signal for it to flash? (no spark?)
We checked the fuel pressure (i have a gauge that came with the begi-s). It looks like the fuel pump jumper works fine, because once connected, it jumps to 70psi or so.
We also noticed that the tach doesn't work either in megatune nor in the car itself while the MS is plugged in.
while cranking, the 'spark advance' gauge would settle aat around 30 degrees BTDC which is odd i guess..? we tried to play with the settings under the spark menu, but they had no effect. We also had the fixed angle set to 10..
FWIW - the knock and NOS/Tables buttons flash on and off even if the car is just sitting with the key "ON".
it still complains about the controller vvs. file discrepancy, we have "MS/Extra hr_10g" but i dont know where get this profile to load into megatune..
Should i just re-flash the firmware??
Thanks ahead of time, please chime in!
The car still doesnt start
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I asked a friend to come over to help with the diagnosis. With just the regular ECU, the timing was fine, right around 10 degree btdc, the car started up immediately..
With the MS, the timing light wouldnt turn on automatically, only if i pressed the button manually, which i guess would indicate no signal for it to flash? (no spark?)
We checked the fuel pressure (i have a gauge that came with the begi-s). It looks like the fuel pump jumper works fine, because once connected, it jumps to 70psi or so.
We also noticed that the tach doesn't work either in megatune nor in the car itself while the MS is plugged in.
while cranking, the 'spark advance' gauge would settle aat around 30 degrees BTDC which is odd i guess..? we tried to play with the settings under the spark menu, but they had no effect. We also had the fixed angle set to 10..
FWIW - the knock and NOS/Tables buttons flash on and off even if the car is just sitting with the key "ON".
it still complains about the controller vvs. file discrepancy, we have "MS/Extra hr_10g" but i dont know where get this profile to load into megatune..
Should i just re-flash the firmware??
Thanks ahead of time, please chime in!
#15
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Go ahead and disconnect the fuel and spark connections for now while your troubleshoot this. Less chance of flooding the engine or frying an igniter.
#16
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I got in touch with Braineack via e-mail, he let me know that my MS is running the high-res firmware.. I am now at least able to connect to the MS without the initial error about the configuration vs. the controller!
Also, the flashing of the knock and NOS/Tables has disappeared, so that's all good news.
I am also able to see the engine RPM in megatune, but still not in the car itself while cranking.
FWIW i don't have a TPS, and i checked under 'calibrate your tps' and got 128 when i fetched the value. I checked in megatune under hte flood-clear, and that was at 250, so i dont think that the flood-clear is being triggered right?
The timing gauge seems a lot more stable now as well. When i tell it to be a 10degrees it actually is at 10 degrees ont he gauge, and when i set for -10, it goes to the cranking advance which is currently 18.
The car still doesnt' start though
Also, the flashing of the knock and NOS/Tables has disappeared, so that's all good news.
I am also able to see the engine RPM in megatune, but still not in the car itself while cranking.
FWIW i don't have a TPS, and i checked under 'calibrate your tps' and got 128 when i fetched the value. I checked in megatune under hte flood-clear, and that was at 250, so i dont think that the flood-clear is being triggered right?
The timing gauge seems a lot more stable now as well. When i tell it to be a 10degrees it actually is at 10 degrees ont he gauge, and when i set for -10, it goes to the cranking advance which is currently 18.
The car still doesnt' start though
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#17
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Hello, i'm resurrecting this thread from the dead ![](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/smile.gif)
SamL01 was nice enough to come by today and take a look at my MS for me. We verified that I have spark, and even got the timing adjusted by jumping 10 & GND / setting to 10 fixed in Megatune.
It seems though, that there's no fuel being delivered into the engine though. After many start attempts, we pulled a plug and it was dry..
Anyone have any ideas?
Just to refresh -- this is a Braineack "plug-n-play" unit. I got an IAT but he wired it so it gets the temp from the MAF for the time being. All the gauges work in megatune.
-Tomaj
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/smile.gif)
SamL01 was nice enough to come by today and take a look at my MS for me. We verified that I have spark, and even got the timing adjusted by jumping 10 & GND / setting to 10 fixed in Megatune.
It seems though, that there's no fuel being delivered into the engine though. After many start attempts, we pulled a plug and it was dry..
Anyone have any ideas?
Just to refresh -- this is a Braineack "plug-n-play" unit. I got an IAT but he wired it so it gets the temp from the MAF for the time being. All the gauges work in megatune.
-Tomaj
#18
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It seems you have fuel pressure, try hooking up a led to the injectors.
You can do it a rangi way, by getting an old led and cutting the ends on an angle, press each end into the two wires going to any injector plug (just as the wires come out of the injector plug is easiest).
When you crank it over you will see the light flashing on. This will verify you have your injectors working.
I dont want to be responsible if this kills your ms though. AS i did this without ms installed.
Another way...
pull out the injectors hold the fuel rail up in left hand and put lighter in right, light your lighter or choice (I prefer zippo myself) and get a mate to crank the car over. If you have (a) a singed face and/or 3rd degree burns - all is A OK. if (b) nothing happens, double check fuel pump and lines and retry!
Good luck
You can do it a rangi way, by getting an old led and cutting the ends on an angle, press each end into the two wires going to any injector plug (just as the wires come out of the injector plug is easiest).
When you crank it over you will see the light flashing on. This will verify you have your injectors working.
I dont want to be responsible if this kills your ms though. AS i did this without ms installed.
Another way...
pull out the injectors hold the fuel rail up in left hand and put lighter in right, light your lighter or choice (I prefer zippo myself) and get a mate to crank the car over. If you have (a) a singed face and/or 3rd degree burns - all is A OK. if (b) nothing happens, double check fuel pump and lines and retry!
Good luck
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#19
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^ Thats a good idea, I didnt think of using an LED.
Instead we compared readings using a DMM, factory computer vs the MS. With the factory computer it shows a constant 12v, with the MS it shows nothing.
With 15ms pulse widths the engine should have flooded instantly, plugs were bone dry.
I even put my ear to the injectors with a screw driver, easily audible with the stock computer, dead with the MS.
Instead we compared readings using a DMM, factory computer vs the MS. With the factory computer it shows a constant 12v, with the MS it shows nothing.
With 15ms pulse widths the engine should have flooded instantly, plugs were bone dry.
I even put my ear to the injectors with a screw driver, easily audible with the stock computer, dead with the MS.
#20
Boost Czar
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^ Thats a good idea, I didnt think of using an LED.
Instead we compared readings using a DMM, factory computer vs the MS. With the factory computer it shows a constant 12v, with the MS it shows nothing.
With 15ms pulse widths the engine should have flooded instantly, plugs were bone dry.
I even put my ear to the injectors with a screw driver, easily audible with the stock computer, dead with the MS.
Instead we compared readings using a DMM, factory computer vs the MS. With the factory computer it shows a constant 12v, with the MS it shows nothing.
With 15ms pulse widths the engine should have flooded instantly, plugs were bone dry.
I even put my ear to the injectors with a screw driver, easily audible with the stock computer, dead with the MS.
Injectors get their +12v source directly from the Main Relay, the same source the CAS, a few solenoids, and the Circuit Opening Relay for the fuel pump share.
The MS only controls the ground. If when the MS is in place and you're not seeing a +12v reading, then you must be removing the INJ Fuse at the same time...
Did you guys jump the fuel pump to turn on in the diagnostics box? You shouldn't have removed ST_SIG, this isn't a MSPNP and it wasn't in my original instructions. If the ST_SIG fuse was pulled, it's possible the fuel pump wont turn on, even with F/P and GND jumped in your diagnostics box.