K, wondering about this MS thing.
#22
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That green harness should be a Boomslang harness. The silver/black part looks to be a DIY autotune pigtail harness for the MS.
So basically 2 harnesses.... setup together to retain the stock ecu and allow MS to control what it needs too.
If you want to do MS as a standalone... you can just buy that DIY harness and a single plug from Boomslang.
So basically 2 harnesses.... setup together to retain the stock ecu and allow MS to control what it needs too.
If you want to do MS as a standalone... you can just buy that DIY harness and a single plug from Boomslang.
#23
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everything is pre made there.
the db37 connector and the boomslang.
I'll be build both myself next time, but i wanted to focus on building the MS this time and not worry about fabricating a wiring harness.
Firedog, I could pre assemble one, but who charge somethign very close to hat DIY would charge assemebled...and then I'd have no clue how to modify it for a subby.
the db37 connector and the boomslang.
I'll be build both myself next time, but i wanted to focus on building the MS this time and not worry about fabricating a wiring harness.
Firedog, I could pre assemble one, but who charge somethign very close to hat DIY would charge assemebled...and then I'd have no clue how to modify it for a subby.
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yes, you can retard ignition when it detects knock.
it can retard at the first sign of knock.
it can retard more at the next sign of knock each.
it can set the max about of ignition retard if decting knock.
it can advance ignition when no knock is present.
it can also pull/add boost if when using an EBC with MS.
it can retard at the first sign of knock.
it can retard more at the next sign of knock each.
it can set the max about of ignition retard if decting knock.
it can advance ignition when no knock is present.
it can also pull/add boost if when using an EBC with MS.
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it can advance ignition when no knock is present.
Which is unlike the Link, which will reduce advance at the hint of knock, and keep it reduced until the ignition is cycled.
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Ooh, then I think MS is the ticket for me. We regularly see temps in the 110-130 range easy in the summer time. I am running non-intercooled at the moment. Something like that would be great for me. I'm in the process of building an engine up so I'll be MS'ing when I install the new engine. NOW, which unit to get? MS1 or MS2?
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Cyclone/Typhoon solenoid from the Chevy dealer. I didn't build the BC circuit on the MS (bought it all pre done as a PNP unit), so I can't answer for what's inside the box. However Braineack has a thread on here you could search out with the procedure detailed.
Only regret/complaint is my shitty WG can. But that's not a EBC problem.
Only regret/complaint is my shitty WG can. But that's not a EBC problem.
#38
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It's a 1991 Miata 1.6 liter still. I have no intention of changing up to the 1.8 especially since my new engine is sitting in my garage now.
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SO What exactly is the difference between MS1 and MS2? I've seen there are two different CPU's. I think I can probably assemble this thing myself though, I was looking at the kits and it seems easy enough. I want it to control fuel, spark, knock, timing. Is MS1 suitable? The tuning software for MS is graphical user interface right? I'm sure I could learn the programming language if I absolutely needed to, but it'd be so much easier to just enter values in a menu.
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