Installing MS2 on 99
#21
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There are two plugs in the air filter area. One is clearly going to the MAF. The other has two wires and is sticking out of the end of the filter. Do I plug the AIT sensor into the two wire? That is how I set it up last weekend (see third pic). What do I do with the MAF plug? Leave it unconnected to anything?
I assume your stock IAT sensor is stuck into a hole drilled in your filter. I'm pretty sure you will need to get a GM IAT sensor, and I'd weld a bung onto your pre throttle body plumbing and screw the sensor into it.
Here is the sensor you need:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/g...tail-p-62.html
As for a bung, don't spend $9 on one. If your plumbing is steel, just buy a 3/8" pipe coupling at the local hardware store, cut it in 1/2, drill a hole in your plumbing and weld it up.
#23
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Thanks reverant!
Thirdgen, I have the GM AIT sensor. Will wire it into the stock AIT sensor. What do I do with the plug for the MAF?
My original cable was definitely one problem. The new one cleared up some issues, but it is still not able to get a TPS signal, and setting the coolant and AIT does not save.
I gave up on the gslender firmware. Loaded up the regular firmware that Ben posted.
Still having similar issues with the TPS and settings for coolant and AIT.
I am wiring up the wideband and AIT now. May go ahead and swap the stock injectors for the 460s and see if I can get it started. Maybe I am getting ahead of myself since I still have software issues. I don't know what to do...
Thirdgen, I have the GM AIT sensor. Will wire it into the stock AIT sensor. What do I do with the plug for the MAF?
My original cable was definitely one problem. The new one cleared up some issues, but it is still not able to get a TPS signal, and setting the coolant and AIT does not save.
I gave up on the gslender firmware. Loaded up the regular firmware that Ben posted.
Still having similar issues with the TPS and settings for coolant and AIT.
I am wiring up the wideband and AIT now. May go ahead and swap the stock injectors for the 460s and see if I can get it started. Maybe I am getting ahead of myself since I still have software issues. I don't know what to do...
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#25
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Thanks reverant!
Thirdgen, I have the GM AIT sensor. Will wire it into the stock AIT sensor. What do I do with the plug for the MAF?
May go ahead and swap the stock injectors for the 460s and see if I can get it started. Maybe I am getting ahead of myself since I still have software issues. I don't know what to do...![facepalm](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/facepalm.gif)
Thirdgen, I have the GM AIT sensor. Will wire it into the stock AIT sensor. What do I do with the plug for the MAF?
May go ahead and swap the stock injectors for the 460s and see if I can get it started. Maybe I am getting ahead of myself since I still have software issues. I don't know what to do...
![facepalm](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/facepalm.gif)
Don't swap in the 460's, keep the stock injectors in. Make sure the required fuel is 13.2 and make sure you're getting spark. Are you running stock coils?
#26
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Yes, running stock coils. Will set the required fuel to 13.2.
More progress:
The AIT is reading accurate. I used the preprogrammed settings for the GM sensor. Previously I had been inputting Brain's from here: http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...TS_3_1_0v1.pdf and tunerstudio was not happy. Guage read at zero and would sporatically jump and go back to zero.
Coolant is not happy. Reads at 180....oh wait...I unplugged the sensor to get the coil pack loose before i loaded the firmware! Checking that now!
More progress:
The AIT is reading accurate. I used the preprogrammed settings for the GM sensor. Previously I had been inputting Brain's from here: http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...TS_3_1_0v1.pdf and tunerstudio was not happy. Guage read at zero and would sporatically jump and go back to zero.
Coolant is not happy. Reads at 180....oh wait...I unplugged the sensor to get the coil pack loose before i loaded the firmware! Checking that now!
#34
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Attached is the current msq I am using along with a datalog of two cranks.
TPS is still screwy, along with coolant, and still no RPMs (in either tunerstudio or the dash).
I imagine the RPM issue is a main problem, as I have seen a million threads in the past with no rpm/no start.
Found this thread on the TPS: LINK
Brain, any chance this is related? I am getting the same 1023 whether throttle opened or closed, and TS reads 100%.
TPS is still screwy, along with coolant, and still no RPMs (in either tunerstudio or the dash).
I imagine the RPM issue is a main problem, as I have seen a million threads in the past with no rpm/no start.
Found this thread on the TPS: LINK
Brain, any chance this is related? I am getting the same 1023 whether throttle opened or closed, and TS reads 100%.
Ok guys I've read through the manual and tried everything I can think of. But every time I go to calibrate my TPS it reads 1023 on both idle and WOT..... I read were it would be the wires swapped and tried that same thing found a diagram that showed the ground wire going through the EGR valve control jumpered that incase it was seeing a open or no ground and still the same thing.... I'm guessing that the TPS is possibly bad but I'd just replaced a few months before I started this little project and it seemed to work ok.... I don't see anything saying what readings you should get roughly when calibrating except that the idle should definetly be lower that WOT. Is there any other setting that could be affecting the calibration of this thing? Its a 88 ford Ranger 2.3L with Megasquirt II V3.57.. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
........
Ok figured this one out it was a ground missing. It gave me a 1023 reading when trying to calibrate the TPS in both idle and WOT. So it looked like a open circuit and I hadnt noticed that both the intake air temp and water temp were also both reading very high! So I went back and looked at the wiring diagram for the vehicle and found that the ground for the TPS followed along into the EGR valve and then went to a common ground before going off to the other sensors. Well since removing the EGR and a few other sensors there was no longer a path to recieve the ground... As soon as I fixed that well it all works great now!
........
Ok figured this one out it was a ground missing. It gave me a 1023 reading when trying to calibrate the TPS in both idle and WOT. So it looked like a open circuit and I hadnt noticed that both the intake air temp and water temp were also both reading very high! So I went back and looked at the wiring diagram for the vehicle and found that the ground for the TPS followed along into the EGR valve and then went to a common ground before going off to the other sensors. Well since removing the EGR and a few other sensors there was no longer a path to recieve the ground... As soon as I fixed that well it all works great now!
#38
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According to http://www.diyautotune.com/diypnp/ap...0-18bp-mt.html your ignition settings are mostly wrong.
#39
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According to http://www.diyautotune.com/diypnp/ap...0-18bp-mt.html your ignition settings are mostly wrong.
edit:except for the Output Port settings. I left those blank, and did not copy thirdgen's bc I was scared to fool with it.
#40
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If you're running the stock Mazda ignition (meaning you haven't installed coil-on-plug ignition or anything) then use DIY's igntion settings exactly.
Any luck with the TPS? You need to have that working because right now your MS is reading 100%. The default setting for "flooding clear mode" is 70% so if the MS sees a throttle position above that it will not inject any fuel.
Any luck with the TPS? You need to have that working because right now your MS is reading 100%. The default setting for "flooding clear mode" is 70% so if the MS sees a throttle position above that it will not inject any fuel.