Honda CRV IAT instead of GM
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Has anyone used an IAT instead of the default GM unit? The GM is cheap and works well, but it just so happens that I've got an M12 x 1.5 thread already in the right place on my inlet pipe, and I'm trying to avoid re-tapping that hole. Plus, the friggin' GM thread is some crazy 3/4-18 NPT thread, which means ordering up another tap that I'll only use a couple of times.
BTW, I tried to look up the IAT info online and had no luck. It fits a Honda CRV 1997-2001, Pilot 2003-4 and a bunch of other Hondas and Accords. I'm sure it's a 5V two wire unit, but don't have the operating specifications. The NAPA p/n is TS 5027. Oh, and I chose this closed-end IAT mainly because it's M12 x 1.5 thread.
BTW, I tried to look up the IAT info online and had no luck. It fits a Honda CRV 1997-2001, Pilot 2003-4 and a bunch of other Hondas and Accords. I'm sure it's a 5V two wire unit, but don't have the operating specifications. The NAPA p/n is TS 5027. Oh, and I chose this closed-end IAT mainly because it's M12 x 1.5 thread.
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its not an issue, its easy to do and im sure you can find the real resistance curves online.
DIYAutoTune.com -- Finding IAT/CLT Sensor Resistance Curves
DIYAutoTune.com -- Finding IAT/CLT Sensor Resistance Curves
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its not an issue, its easy to do and im sure you can find the real resistance curves online.
DIYAutoTune.com -- Finding IAT/CLT Sensor Resistance Curves
DIYAutoTune.com -- Finding IAT/CLT Sensor Resistance Curves
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Edit--So just to summarize, you simply set up the sensor so you can take Ohm values while the sensor is sitting in freezing water, and then boiling water. Enter the values and Megasquirt will figure out the rest. Not too bad.
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Last edited by cordycord; 08-03-2013 at 10:43 AM.
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