High Idle, possibly IAC releated?
#1
High Idle, possibly IAC releated?
Just put the original throttle body from the 1.8 engine that i have in my car back on. In addition I loaded the firmware from the 9697 mspnp (HR10e) so i could get the hi res. The car starts up and seems to run and drive fine, however the idle is around 2000rpm. I have the idle adjustment screw all the way in, seems to be where it idles lowest. The timing is a-ok, and I haven't found any vac leaks. I believe the IAC may have something to do with it. I'm not really sure if i have these wires hooked up correctly or even if the IAC on this TB works right (how do I test?)
Also what is this sensor for the one circled in red?
One last thing do i have to have these nozzles plumbed into the cooling system, or can i just bypass, and if so which is in and which is out?
thanks!!
Also what is this sensor for the one circled in red?
One last thing do i have to have these nozzles plumbed into the cooling system, or can i just bypass, and if so which is in and which is out?
thanks!!
#2
Boost Pope
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,455
Total Cats: 6,874
Testing the IAC solenoid pretty much has to be done by removing it from the TB and visually observing it operate. For the moment, you could check the resistance between the two terminals to at least verify that the winding is good- if you have access to an ammeter that would be better as it would verify the drive circuit as well. For the time being, change one of the gauges on your megatune dashboard to idleDCGauge to verify that MS is at least attempting to control it.
The device circled in red isn't a sensor, it's a solenoid. Specifically, it's the charcoal canister purge valve. An emissions control device. Since you've removed the hose that goes to the charcoal canister, I suppose a leak is possible.
The two nipples on the bottom of the IAC assembly should be plumbed in, that's why they are there. There is no in and out- they'll flow either way. The coolant just passes through and warms the IAC assembly a bit.
The device circled in red isn't a sensor, it's a solenoid. Specifically, it's the charcoal canister purge valve. An emissions control device. Since you've removed the hose that goes to the charcoal canister, I suppose a leak is possible.
The two nipples on the bottom of the IAC assembly should be plumbed in, that's why they are there. There is no in and out- they'll flow either way. The coolant just passes through and warms the IAC assembly a bit.
#4
okay fired up megatune and checked the value in that gauge and it does indeed try to change from 12% without car on to 9% while car is running however no change is observed when this happens (are the wires hooked up to it properly?) I am using the 9697 .msq on the car right now which is probably causing some trouble what should i change to lower the idle in megatune ve table? spark advance?
#5
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,455
Total Cats: 6,874
Can we see an MSQ or at least screenshots of your two idle setup pages? Those values seem abnormally low for the stock IAC valve.
edit: also, verify for me that the gauge you were looking at was scaled from 0-100%, not 0-255 absolute.
edit: also, verify for me that the gauge you were looking at was scaled from 0-100%, not 0-255 absolute.
#7
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,455
Total Cats: 6,874
Interesting...
I just noticed that DIY's settings for IAC duty cycle are quite different between 90-93 and 94+. In my Idle Control screen I have minimum (dc) at 17, Closed (dc) at 16. But then the values you have match DIY's values for a 94-95...
Any 1.8 owners care to chime in here?
I just noticed that DIY's settings for IAC duty cycle are quite different between 90-93 and 94+. In my Idle Control screen I have minimum (dc) at 17, Closed (dc) at 16. But then the values you have match DIY's values for a 94-95...
Any 1.8 owners care to chime in here?
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