High fuel consumption
#1
High fuel consumption
Hello everyone, i have a problem and I need advice on my mk1 1.6.
I had a megasquirt MS1PNP 440cc injectors running on batch injection and the fuel consumption (once mapped fully mapped) was identical to standard fuel consumption . Then eventually the engine blew up years later.... (my fault didnt notice a oil leak). So for a while I've been building another engine so started upgrading everything and installed a ball bearing turbo.
Thinking my MS1 will limit me with my power goals i then purchaced a MS2PNP Extra, installed 550cc injectors, also fitted a walbro and sard adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Made all the alterations on tunerstudio turned down the required fuel on my Ms2. Also I've ran two extra wires to run sequential injection and changed the "squirts per cycle" from 2 to 1. The car drinks fuel like a rotary! I've done 30km and it's already used a 1/4 tank of fuel!!! It's already been mapped by the same bloke (50% more power ) any reason why it's using so much fuel? Even cruising around the fuel consumption is poor.. here are my settings.
I had a megasquirt MS1PNP 440cc injectors running on batch injection and the fuel consumption (once mapped fully mapped) was identical to standard fuel consumption . Then eventually the engine blew up years later.... (my fault didnt notice a oil leak). So for a while I've been building another engine so started upgrading everything and installed a ball bearing turbo.
Thinking my MS1 will limit me with my power goals i then purchaced a MS2PNP Extra, installed 550cc injectors, also fitted a walbro and sard adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Made all the alterations on tunerstudio turned down the required fuel on my Ms2. Also I've ran two extra wires to run sequential injection and changed the "squirts per cycle" from 2 to 1. The car drinks fuel like a rotary! I've done 30km and it's already used a 1/4 tank of fuel!!! It's already been mapped by the same bloke (50% more power ) any reason why it's using so much fuel? Even cruising around the fuel consumption is poor.. here are my settings.
Last edited by Zammish24; 03-23-2017 at 07:21 PM. Reason: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/736x587/80-settings_cb41b15bf1489851f9db7b1dc9fba32e65a59640.jpg
#4
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What does the AFR target map look like? Does the wideband show that you are hitting your AFR targets well? Are you sure there's not a fuel leak or anything? Does it run just as well as it used to?
#6
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Is it the same AFR map as the past tune that didn't have poor fuel consumption? It's certainly overly rich in the mid and low range. What your spark map look like? That can have a large effect on efficiency as well.
If AFR's and spark is in check, then I don't see how fuel consumption would be that poor, without an external factor. Maybe one of the injectors is dirty, so you really have 1 lean cylinder and 3 rich cylinders?
If AFR's and spark is in check, then I don't see how fuel consumption would be that poor, without an external factor. Maybe one of the injectors is dirty, so you really have 1 lean cylinder and 3 rich cylinders?
#8
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AFR map can be more like this
That spark map is pretty bad. Do you have the map from your old MS1? Why is it completely different? Your timing from 195 kpa up is probably fine, but everything below is very conservative, like VERY conservative. Typical you should run around 28-30 degrees at 100 kpa, and retard a little over 1 degree per psi (ends up being around 1.6 degrees per 10 kpa). Low load is usually in the 40's. Was this dyno tuned? Was any there any attention to the cells under full boost?
That spark map is pretty bad. Do you have the map from your old MS1? Why is it completely different? Your timing from 195 kpa up is probably fine, but everything below is very conservative, like VERY conservative. Typical you should run around 28-30 degrees at 100 kpa, and retard a little over 1 degree per psi (ends up being around 1.6 degrees per 10 kpa). Low load is usually in the 40's. Was this dyno tuned? Was any there any attention to the cells under full boost?
#9
this is the map off my old ECU, i think i ammended the fuelling abit (so i can run the 540cc injectors)
but haven't touched the timing. Ive been told i should install a knock sensor when its getting mapped, it was dyno tuned and the mapper screwed in his own knock sensor and headphones.
Im sorry this is kinda new to me, im just learning as i go and dont understand alot of this mapping tuning process. I basically sat in a viewing room for an hour watching my car on the rolling road as he mapped it so im unsure how much attension was taken into each cell. you say the ignition is very conservative, can u elaborate on that please?
but haven't touched the timing. Ive been told i should install a knock sensor when its getting mapped, it was dyno tuned and the mapper screwed in his own knock sensor and headphones.
Im sorry this is kinda new to me, im just learning as i go and dont understand alot of this mapping tuning process. I basically sat in a viewing room for an hour watching my car on the rolling road as he mapped it so im unsure how much attension was taken into each cell. you say the ignition is very conservative, can u elaborate on that please?
#10
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https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...advance-69662/
Basically your spark map is very retarded. Which means the combustion is much less efficient than if the spark was more advanced. But before you start messing with things, advancing too much will end up with detonation, so don't do anything unless you are under agreement that it's the correct thing to do. If you download the base map from DIYautotunes website and use their spark table, you will have a spark table that's proven to be reliable and is much more efficient than your current map. You'll probably gain a lot of spool and power too.
MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com
Here is the table from the 1.6 base map:
Just understand that doing this will essentially overwrite what your tuner did, but really it doesn't seem like they did anything useful. If they were actually listening for knock and were trying to optimize things, you'd have a map with much higher values.
Can you confirm that the only thing that has changed was the ECU and injectors? The inefficient map may explain why you aren't getting good fuel efficiency, but does not explain why it used to be good, and is bad now.
Basically your spark map is very retarded. Which means the combustion is much less efficient than if the spark was more advanced. But before you start messing with things, advancing too much will end up with detonation, so don't do anything unless you are under agreement that it's the correct thing to do. If you download the base map from DIYautotunes website and use their spark table, you will have a spark table that's proven to be reliable and is much more efficient than your current map. You'll probably gain a lot of spool and power too.
MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com
Here is the table from the 1.6 base map:
Just understand that doing this will essentially overwrite what your tuner did, but really it doesn't seem like they did anything useful. If they were actually listening for knock and were trying to optimize things, you'd have a map with much higher values.
Can you confirm that the only thing that has changed was the ECU and injectors? The inefficient map may explain why you aren't getting good fuel efficiency, but does not explain why it used to be good, and is bad now.
#11
Mechanically i changed the turbo manifold, installed a bigger turbo, 550cc injectors, cometic hg, forged rods and pistons (stock CR) and thats about it maybe a few tiny things. I have just purchased a knock sensor which im going to install as my ECU has wiring to run it. then i will amend the timing and fuelling. to amend the fuelling, do i use autotune?