Help me get Megasquirt running right (Videos)
#1
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I've got: Braineack PNP with piggyback harness.
Stock 1.6 injectors OR 305cc injectors (Both show the same problem)
Running an unmodified 9093MSPNP base map with the stock injectors, and a modified version that Brain gave me with the 305cc injectors.
I can plug the stock ecu back in and it will run perfectly.
With Megasquirt:
It starts great but only runs on cylinders 2 and 4. Very rough. All cylinders are sparking. I can pull individual injector plugs and the engine will die when I pull 2 or 4. Pulling 1 and 3 have no effect.
I tried setting the timing even though it's running on two cylinders and this happens. In the video I'm slowly turning the CAS with my hand. I had Megasquirt set to static 10 degrees. Before the timing mark gets anywhere near where it should be, the engine runs rougher and dies. You can see the timing mark seem to "split into two dots". Not sure what that means.
Anyways, wideband is reading full lean unless I blip the throttle. I've tried richening the idle VE cells (Think VE values in the 90s) and still no good, although the wideband started showing a richer mixture than full lean.(18-19:1)
I'm sure I've forgotten details, but that's all I can think of now.
It would be nice if someone local with MS could help out.
Commence firing off random suggestions now.
Any help is very appreciated!
Stock 1.6 injectors OR 305cc injectors (Both show the same problem)
Running an unmodified 9093MSPNP base map with the stock injectors, and a modified version that Brain gave me with the 305cc injectors.
I can plug the stock ecu back in and it will run perfectly.
With Megasquirt:
It starts great but only runs on cylinders 2 and 4. Very rough. All cylinders are sparking. I can pull individual injector plugs and the engine will die when I pull 2 or 4. Pulling 1 and 3 have no effect.
I tried setting the timing even though it's running on two cylinders and this happens. In the video I'm slowly turning the CAS with my hand. I had Megasquirt set to static 10 degrees. Before the timing mark gets anywhere near where it should be, the engine runs rougher and dies. You can see the timing mark seem to "split into two dots". Not sure what that means.
Anyways, wideband is reading full lean unless I blip the throttle. I've tried richening the idle VE cells (Think VE values in the 90s) and still no good, although the wideband started showing a richer mixture than full lean.(18-19:1)
I'm sure I've forgotten details, but that's all I can think of now.
It would be nice if someone local with MS could help out.
Commence firing off random suggestions now.
Any help is very appreciated!
#4
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once i button my car back together id be happy to take another look at it and test it out on my own car.
something's causing one batch of injectors to not squirt.....
open the connector hood up and make certain the two fat wires (blue and green) are both taking up two pins (32 & 33, 34 & 35). then make sure you are getting continuity between those pins on the connector to the contacts on the yellow plug.
I'm looking at pictures of your build and nothing is leaping out at me as an obvious problem:
![](http://www.boostedmiata.com/MS/built/bryce/CIMG1271.JPG)
![](http://www.boostedmiata.com/MS/built/bryce/CIMG1273.JPG)
![](http://www.boostedmiata.com/MS/built/bryce/CIMG1277.JPG)
![](http://www.boostedmiata.com/MS/built/bryce/CIMG1279.JPG)
I think we've already determined before that the harness looks good. but there's gotta be a reason it's not squirting...
the chip U4 could be bad...
it could be that one of the transistors is malfunctioning...q5 or q1
check if q14 or q15s legs are making contact....those are hard to solder sometimes.
![](http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/v3components.gif)
i think that's all that's on the circuit....can you solder at all? you could try jumping the legs of r37 and r38 on the heatsink to remove a circuit on the board that may be interfering so some odd reason....
something's causing one batch of injectors to not squirt.....
open the connector hood up and make certain the two fat wires (blue and green) are both taking up two pins (32 & 33, 34 & 35). then make sure you are getting continuity between those pins on the connector to the contacts on the yellow plug.
I'm looking at pictures of your build and nothing is leaping out at me as an obvious problem:
I think we've already determined before that the harness looks good. but there's gotta be a reason it's not squirting...
the chip U4 could be bad...
it could be that one of the transistors is malfunctioning...q5 or q1
check if q14 or q15s legs are making contact....those are hard to solder sometimes.
![](http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/v3components.gif)
i think that's all that's on the circuit....can you solder at all? you could try jumping the legs of r37 and r38 on the heatsink to remove a circuit on the board that may be interfering so some odd reason....
#5
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SHE SQUIRTS!
Below is a picture of the bottom of Q15. Notice how two of the legs are touching. That was it.
![Name: DSC_0054.jpg
Views: 24
Size: 129.2 KB](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/megasquirt-18/214085d1501268341-help-me-get-megasquirt-running-right-videos-dsc_0054.jpg)
Now it's squirting on all 4 cylinders and I am a happy man!![Biggthumpup](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif)
Thanks Scott!
Below is a picture of the bottom of Q15. Notice how two of the legs are touching. That was it.
![Name: DSC_0054.jpg
Views: 24
Size: 129.2 KB](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/megasquirt-18/214085d1501268341-help-me-get-megasquirt-running-right-videos-dsc_0054.jpg)
Now it's squirting on all 4 cylinders and I am a happy man!
![Biggthumpup](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif)
Thanks Scott!
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