First start datalog. Anything wrong?
#24
Looking at the map, there's a lot of issues that jump out. First, you are using fixed tigger at 10deg timing, not using the map. you are focing the motor to use 10deg, _fixed_ this will cause heat issues.
Your PWM idle target curve bottoms at 1000rpms... CL idle won't let your car idle lower than that. The PID settings, you have the vlve closed value at 700, open at 3000. having the rpm range that wide open might make it less accurate. Try 700-1800 or so.
which output do you have running to the fan relay? Looking though the outputs, it looks like you have every one set to a different coolant temp, but only PT6 is enabled? You have the power on value at 1, with the trigger set to 0, which means the fan will be on with power, until the conditions (greater than 201) are met, at which point it turns off. Thermostats don't have a polarity, they are simply a bimetal sensor that changes resistance with heat. Mine looks like the attached, but, I am using PA0 for fan control. You may not be - ( I have mine set to 190 in this image, but i find my car nomally maintains 172-180 on the highway... so it is off most of the time)
The VE map needs work. some of your cells are jumping by 20pts for the same rpm. You can go in an manually interpolate a bit, try to help get it dialed in.
Keep googling
Your PWM idle target curve bottoms at 1000rpms... CL idle won't let your car idle lower than that. The PID settings, you have the vlve closed value at 700, open at 3000. having the rpm range that wide open might make it less accurate. Try 700-1800 or so.
which output do you have running to the fan relay? Looking though the outputs, it looks like you have every one set to a different coolant temp, but only PT6 is enabled? You have the power on value at 1, with the trigger set to 0, which means the fan will be on with power, until the conditions (greater than 201) are met, at which point it turns off. Thermostats don't have a polarity, they are simply a bimetal sensor that changes resistance with heat. Mine looks like the attached, but, I am using PA0 for fan control. You may not be - ( I have mine set to 190 in this image, but i find my car nomally maintains 172-180 on the highway... so it is off most of the time)
The VE map needs work. some of your cells are jumping by 20pts for the same rpm. You can go in an manually interpolate a bit, try to help get it dialed in.
Keep googling
#25
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Haha. Good point about the tune name.
Half of what you said was a bunch of jargon to me. lol So yes, I will have A LOT of googling to do. I am very new to MS and want learn.
Thanks so much for pointing out the issues.
BTW, where are you located?
Half of what you said was a bunch of jargon to me. lol So yes, I will have A LOT of googling to do. I am very new to MS and want learn.
Thanks so much for pointing out the issues.
BTW, where are you located?
#27
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OMG!! Someone in the tristate area that knows MS?! Your as rare as unicorns in hell.
Lets meet up some time. I would am willing to drive down there if you are willing to help me out and teach me some MS. Or you can come here. I really dont care.
Lets meet up some time. I would am willing to drive down there if you are willing to help me out and teach me some MS. Or you can come here. I really dont care.
#28
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Tuck, thanks for the good advice. I changed the settings that you mentioned and the fans work appropriately.
My idle seasaws much more now though. :/
I dont have enough knowledge yet to mess with the VE tables.
My idle seasaws much more now though. :/
I dont have enough knowledge yet to mess with the VE tables.
#29
Have you use the idle speed screw to set default mechanical idle yet?
Use the idle valve test to find out when your valve will be open/closed. You can " guess" using values near 23 for closed, and 64 for open. Min duty for paid should be near the closed value. The p,I, and d values you will have to tune yourself. I started with p=50, I and d =0, then increased p until I got occilations, then backed it down a bit. Next was the integral gain (I) similarly, set it, then put a load on the car (headlights).
Before you do this, set the spark in the ignition table for the block ranging from 0-1200rpm, and from o to 40kpa to a similar value, like, say 15 deg. Then make sure the fuel load in the ve table is summary uniform. This will prevent fuel and spark advance from causing it to occilate as it moves around cells.
Good luck!
Use the idle valve test to find out when your valve will be open/closed. You can " guess" using values near 23 for closed, and 64 for open. Min duty for paid should be near the closed value. The p,I, and d values you will have to tune yourself. I started with p=50, I and d =0, then increased p until I got occilations, then backed it down a bit. Next was the integral gain (I) similarly, set it, then put a load on the car (headlights).
Before you do this, set the spark in the ignition table for the block ranging from 0-1200rpm, and from o to 40kpa to a similar value, like, say 15 deg. Then make sure the fuel load in the ve table is summary uniform. This will prevent fuel and spark advance from causing it to occilate as it moves around cells.
Good luck!
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