Failed Emissions
#1
Failed Emissions
Barely failed emissions. I think it's a tuning problem. I have new plugs, new 3" magnaflow cat, running 91 octane, Everything is in good working order. I'm pretty sure it's a tuning issue.
Hydrocarbons (HC) in grams/mile Emissions result 1.19 Standard to pass 1.00
Carbon Monoxide (CO) in grams/mile Emissions result 16.14 Standard to pass 12.00
Oxides of Nitrogen (NOX) in grams/mile Emissions result 3.16 Standard to pass 2.50
My idle was lean, about 15.5-16.2 and during the run it was mostly mid 14's but some places either 13's to low 15's. Never realy went into boost. I don't know what to do with my timing. I've heard too much timing will create higher NOX emissions.
Hydrocarbons (HC) in grams/mile Emissions result 1.19 Standard to pass 1.00
Carbon Monoxide (CO) in grams/mile Emissions result 16.14 Standard to pass 12.00
Oxides of Nitrogen (NOX) in grams/mile Emissions result 3.16 Standard to pass 2.50
My idle was lean, about 15.5-16.2 and during the run it was mostly mid 14's but some places either 13's to low 15's. Never realy went into boost. I don't know what to do with my timing. I've heard too much timing will create higher NOX emissions.
Last edited by Cookie Monster; 06-03-2010 at 07:14 PM.
#2
I passed emissions with MS thread
It is 100% a tuning issue, I passed with no cat :P.
Your idle is to lean, try bringing it to 14.7-15.0. Cruise you should shoot for 14.7 across the board.
As for timing, it does effect emissions. When I passed, I ran 17* at idle, and the stock DIYPNP timing map everywhere else.
Do that, and as long as you don't have any misfires (which will also fail you) you should be fine.
It is 100% a tuning issue, I passed with no cat :P.
Your idle is to lean, try bringing it to 14.7-15.0. Cruise you should shoot for 14.7 across the board.
As for timing, it does effect emissions. When I passed, I ran 17* at idle, and the stock DIYPNP timing map everywhere else.
Do that, and as long as you don't have any misfires (which will also fail you) you should be fine.
#3
So you used that exact map in your thread right? I would pretty much just steal your timing values. I retuned my afr's to about 14.5-15.0 yesterday after the test. My second try is free. It's realy hard to keep my idle at a steady afr and my afr's are always changing depending on the air temp. I'm not sure how to fix that.
#5
It failed again.
Hydrocarbons are worse 1.95 up from 1.19 last time.
Carbon Monoxide is a little better 15.81 down from 16.14
NOX is also a little better 2.97 down from 3.16
Arizona emissions seems to want perfection.
My idle will be 14.7-15.0 if I come to a stop. but if I sit there and let the sensor heat soak it gets richer. like 13.5ish.
I can't keep any of my cruising afr's steady either. I don't know how to disable the IAT correction values.
In Lambda Sensor Targets. Should my VE table 1 be on or off? Mine is off and yours is on.
Hydrocarbons are worse 1.95 up from 1.19 last time.
Carbon Monoxide is a little better 15.81 down from 16.14
NOX is also a little better 2.97 down from 3.16
Arizona emissions seems to want perfection.
My idle will be 14.7-15.0 if I come to a stop. but if I sit there and let the sensor heat soak it gets richer. like 13.5ish.
I can't keep any of my cruising afr's steady either. I don't know how to disable the IAT correction values.
In Lambda Sensor Targets. Should my VE table 1 be on or off? Mine is off and yours is on.
#11
Senior Member
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Yeah the problem is that there's NO WAY that fuel map has been tuned properly, which isn't totally surprising considering you don't have a wideband. With a narrowband you don't know how rich you're really dipping because its range of detection is pretty small. For instance that 13.5 you saw might not be accurate at all. Although a WBO2 would be much easier to tune with, even with a narrowband you should be able to target 14.7 reliably. Go in and change your AFR targets to reasonable values (not 11.5) then let tunerstudio make some adjustments. Once you have the VE table tuned, enable EGO control to keep things at 14.7 during the smog test.
#12
also running alcohol in your tank will help you if you can get your tune closer but you still aren't quite there. Retard timing and add alcohol to a low tank and that will help you since you're so close. A more restrictive cat will help too. We also have it super easy when it comes to emissions also so you should just consider yourself lucky its ONLY arizona standards lol
#13
Yeah the problem is that there's NO WAY that fuel map has been tuned properly, which isn't totally surprising considering you don't have a wideband. With a narrowband you don't know how rich you're really dipping because its range of detection is pretty small. For instance that 13.5 you saw might not be accurate at all. Although a WBO2 would be much easier to tune with, even with a narrowband you should be able to target 14.7 reliably. Go in and change your AFR targets to reasonable values (not 11.5) then let tunerstudio make some adjustments. Once you have the VE table tuned, enable EGO control to keep things at 14.7 during the smog test.
#16
Boost Czar
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Location: Chantilly, VA
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wideband and switch point of 2.35v, then give it the parameters you want it to run in. Then turn AFR targets ON, and tune the AFR targets table.
just turn baro off. probably going to have to retune, but you needed to do that anyways
just turn baro off. probably going to have to retune, but you needed to do that anyways
#17
It failed again!
Hydrocarbons (HC) 1.91
Carbon Monoxide (CO) 12.10
(NOX) 2.90
The AFR didn't jump around so much today. I don't know if it can get much better. I did what I was told from you guys. I also removed the actuator arm from the flapper so the turbo was only able to boost about 2 psi. I removed about 5-8* of timing most everywhere under 100kpa since the last test. I don't know what to do with timing right now. I need to know how to make the ecu stay at 14.7afr!
If you guys know what an OEM timing map looks like please post it up!
Hydrocarbons (HC) 1.91
Carbon Monoxide (CO) 12.10
(NOX) 2.90
The AFR didn't jump around so much today. I don't know if it can get much better. I did what I was told from you guys. I also removed the actuator arm from the flapper so the turbo was only able to boost about 2 psi. I removed about 5-8* of timing most everywhere under 100kpa since the last test. I don't know what to do with timing right now. I need to know how to make the ecu stay at 14.7afr!
If you guys know what an OEM timing map looks like please post it up!