Enable Tacho Output
#1
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Hey,
the Tachometer on my 1992 Turbo Miata (3 Wire Coils) currently doesn't work after switching to Megasquirt and I have a few questions about the Enable Tacho funktion in Tuner Studio.
I've heard that messing something up here can Damage my Coils so I'd rather ask for advice first.
When enabling Tacho Output what "Output" and "Speed" should it be on ?
It says at the bottom "be sure nothing else Uses this Output", how do I know if an Output is allready in use ?
Is there Anything in the "Ignition Options" that needs to be changed in relation ?
What about "Spark A output pin", Should it be the same as the "Tacho Output" ? (By default my Tacho Output is on D14 which is also the preferred "Spark A output pin").
I have the 3 Wire Coils and a MsLabs Basic MS2 Ecu.
Would love a reply as I coudnt find anything about this Online.
the Tachometer on my 1992 Turbo Miata (3 Wire Coils) currently doesn't work after switching to Megasquirt and I have a few questions about the Enable Tacho funktion in Tuner Studio.
I've heard that messing something up here can Damage my Coils so I'd rather ask for advice first.
When enabling Tacho Output what "Output" and "Speed" should it be on ?
It says at the bottom "be sure nothing else Uses this Output", how do I know if an Output is allready in use ?
Is there Anything in the "Ignition Options" that needs to be changed in relation ?
What about "Spark A output pin", Should it be the same as the "Tacho Output" ? (By default my Tacho Output is on D14 which is also the preferred "Spark A output pin").
I have the 3 Wire Coils and a MsLabs Basic MS2 Ecu.
Would love a reply as I coudnt find anything about this Online.
#2
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Spark output A and B are typically for triggering your coils, A=1/4, B=2/3. You'll use a third output for tacho.
The MS outputs are unfortunately horribly labeled, you'll have to find one on your ecu/firmware that works.
The speed doesn't matter, if your tacho is randomly showing twice the RPM is should be, you'd want to select "half speed", however I believe most setups use "normal".
The MS outputs are unfortunately horribly labeled, you'll have to find one on your ecu/firmware that works.
The speed doesn't matter, if your tacho is randomly showing twice the RPM is should be, you'd want to select "half speed", however I believe most setups use "normal".
#4
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#7
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In any case, with stock coils and the igniter module, the tacho signal is generated by the igniter, and the signal goes from the igniter to the cluster through the yellow/blue wire on the igniter. If the igniter has been swapped out for a known good one, trace the connection from the igniter to the cluster and make sure everything is ok.
#8
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In any case, with stock coils and the igniter module, the tacho signal is generated by the igniter, and the signal goes from the igniter to the cluster through the yellow/blue wire on the igniter. If the igniter has been swapped out for a known good one, trace the connection from the igniter to the cluster and make sure everything is ok.
#9
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Sorry for the long inactivity but due to some unfortunate circumstances I wasn't abe to work on the Car.
I checked the Connections Today.
The Yellow/Blue (1H) Wire has continuity from the Cluster Connector to the Ignitor Connector.
The Black/Yellow (2K) gets 12V from the "Meter" Fuse and both the Black/Yellow (2K) and Black (2J) are all linked to the Other Gauges which work fine. (Power and Ground).
Once I fix my massive Turbo Line Oil Leak I'll swap out the Ignitor again and Maybe Even the Whole Cluster.
I checked the Connections Today.
The Yellow/Blue (1H) Wire has continuity from the Cluster Connector to the Ignitor Connector.
The Black/Yellow (2K) gets 12V from the "Meter" Fuse and both the Black/Yellow (2K) and Black (2J) are all linked to the Other Gauges which work fine. (Power and Ground).
Once I fix my massive Turbo Line Oil Leak I'll swap out the Ignitor again and Maybe Even the Whole Cluster.
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