EBC is supposed to be simple and it seems to work on all the other MS's that I've built when tested on the bench. I know the circuit is functional and I know I have continuity between the circuit and the solenoid. I turn the key to the on position and the solenoid will come to life clicking away depending on what duty cycle I put in the table. IOW, I can set it to zero and it does nothing, 50 and it actuates at a expected rate, or I can set it to 100 and hear it click very slowly in comparison (should be closed shouldn't it?)

Things I know:
-Mod is good
-Wiring is good
-Control with key on works

I turn the Boost DC gauge on and I can see it fluctuate while push the throttle with key to the on position so that is working as it should. Then I go and start the car. Now nothing works, I rev the car and the DC gauge does nothing and neither does the valve. I can't hear/feel the valve do anything as soon as I start the car no matter how much I rev the car or adjust settings.
I have gone though the codebase outputs menu and switched things back and forth because that seemed to cure the bug for some people. I have also reflashed firmware numerous times to try and cure it as well as making a new msq.
I have tested power at my 12v connection and its good. I'm sourcing 12v from the diagnostic box, it has a constant 12v at key on or running. It actually ramps up to 15v while running according to my DMM. Could that be an issue, shouldn't be.

So I've been messing with this for a good long while. I'm going to download the new hi-res code, easytherm it and see if that changes anything for me. I think its version 10F now.

Anyone else have a similar issue or have any ideas of what else it could be?
These are the things I think it could be:

-12v connection is too much for it
-Firmware issues
-MSQ settings issues
-EBC hates me for realz

Here is my msq and my firmware i'm currently running. I'll try 10f hi-res right now and see if anything changes.

 

Tried the 10F firmware, no change. Next thing to try is my 12v power source I suppose.

 

Changed my 12v source just in case that 12v source when running was a little haywire or something.

 

Chad, I'm sorry to hear you're facing issues with the EBC.

You know I've got no clue about the subject but; is there any way you can compare yours with an MSPNP or any other MS made by someone which you know for sure is working properly?

 

problem solved

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=10990

 

I looked at that MBC thread earlier and was contemplating building one. For the cost of materials at lowes I could get a super kewlz ebay one that says BOOOOOSSSSSTTTT on it or something. lol I'll run wastegate at the autocross tomorrow, 7 psi will be good enough for rain racing.

 

I have a kinda working EBC on mine but it was such a PITA to "tune". I just made up a MBC to test the WG and make sure that was not my issue and find out the MBC works good, I'm keeping it...for now.

 

Interesting progress. Took the car out with a friend tonight and discovered something is a little weird.
Had the passenget turn on the Boost DC gauge for the heck of it just to see whats up. All of a sudden the gauge is working when i'm getting into boost. But wait... It's working backwards of how the EBC settings should.
I have him set it to 100% duty across the board and we end up running wastegate pressures. Set it to 0% and we run high boost, it ramps up constantly towards redline.
So i set I ended up with 0% duty across the board until 4k rpm and then I dropped it to 40% duty to hold it around 155 kpa or so. That should be good for autocross in the rain.

So i guess forget about all this, besides it working backwards I'm happy that it works. I'll figure out why its barkwards later. Either the solenoid is backwards or the settings are.

 

you probably got the polarity reveresed there chad no big deal unless you wanna share maps.

 

I know I don't have the polarity of the valve backwards and I also know i have it set to increase boost with voltage instead of decrease it. Doesn't make sense but i'll take it either way.

 

I feel your pain. I struggled with the link ebc. Turned out that the larger engine and turbo size, and an unknown actuator required an "off the map" setting for WG loop gain. Set it to over three times the recommended setting for journal bearings and it came to life. When it was set a bit lower, it would work randomly - making it appear like an electrical component issue. I figured out the problem by making a single change in the settings, a boosted run and then repeat. After about 20 or so runs I'd got to the loop gain setting and had my ebc led come on. Does the MS have any other parameters/controls for the boost control?

btw- I've used that mbc vs. ebc, and ebc is superior (open or closed loop).

 

does the boost control from the MS float and ground or float and go to 12V?

 

i should get off my *** and throw that switch in to turn off the EBC for when i want to just run WG pressure.

 

It is supposed to float and go to ground, the solenoid gets 12v elsewhere and the mosfet regulates the ground.

 

so next question... your boost valve is normally open or normally closed? how do you have the plumbing hooked up?

This is a good read, but for the hydra:
http://www.mrcontrols.com/installs/n.../boostctrl.htm

 

It should be normall open I believe. I might have the plumbing backwards but I'm pretty sure it's correct. I'll mess with it and see if switching it to decerease boost with increase in voltage straightens it out.

 

This sounds like a possible firmware corruption issue - you might want to start with a fresh firmware load and copy the settings by hand.

 

GL with it Chad, try reversing your plumbing. I just checked and my GM boost valve is normally open. If you put it inline with your wastegate it should go to working.