DIYPNP Idle Issues
#23
I tried disabling Pa0 and I found that problem went away, thus it was safe to assume there was a jumpering issue. I stumbled upon someone else’s jumper diagram as provided by Matt at DIYautotune. This is what I changed mine to:
AC:
1p -> input 1 in
input 1 out -> pe1
PA0 -> relay 2 in
Relay 2 out -> 1S
1S -> 1I
2.2k resistor in (R14?)
Radiator fan:
WLD -> Relay 1 in
Relay 1 out -> 1R
Clutch Switch:
Clutch Switch -> DB15 connector 11
DB 15 connector 11 -> input 2 in
input 1 out -> FLX
After doing this, I reflashed my ECU because I wanted a fresh start (probably no point in doing this...) and these are the problems I am now having.
1) My AC compressor is always on, whether or not the AC button is pressed, or the fan is in the off position. As soon as I turn the fan on (with the AC button in the off position) cold air comes right out. The same result is with the button pressed on. This doesn't make sense to me....
2) My Tachometer goes to 0 RPM when I step hard on the throttle with Tacho Out setting set to off. If I turn Tacho Out setting on, the RPM gauge moves very slowly, then occasionally oscillates randomly from 2k-6k.
3) When the car is sitting warm at idle, if I go to start it, it will start strong, try to stay alive, then die. I must wait for the car to cool before it will start well on it's own. If I give it some gas to stay alive long enough to read AFR's, it will be at 16-17; however, if I start the car from a cold start and let it warm up, it will idle right where I want it to ~14.7.
Attached is my current tune file (I know the whole VE table is not tuned, but the bottom end/idle looks good enough).
AC:
1p -> input 1 in
input 1 out -> pe1
PA0 -> relay 2 in
Relay 2 out -> 1S
1S -> 1I
2.2k resistor in (R14?)
Radiator fan:
WLD -> Relay 1 in
Relay 1 out -> 1R
Clutch Switch:
Clutch Switch -> DB15 connector 11
DB 15 connector 11 -> input 2 in
input 1 out -> FLX
After doing this, I reflashed my ECU because I wanted a fresh start (probably no point in doing this...) and these are the problems I am now having.
1) My AC compressor is always on, whether or not the AC button is pressed, or the fan is in the off position. As soon as I turn the fan on (with the AC button in the off position) cold air comes right out. The same result is with the button pressed on. This doesn't make sense to me....
2) My Tachometer goes to 0 RPM when I step hard on the throttle with Tacho Out setting set to off. If I turn Tacho Out setting on, the RPM gauge moves very slowly, then occasionally oscillates randomly from 2k-6k.
3) When the car is sitting warm at idle, if I go to start it, it will start strong, try to stay alive, then die. I must wait for the car to cool before it will start well on it's own. If I give it some gas to stay alive long enough to read AFR's, it will be at 16-17; however, if I start the car from a cold start and let it warm up, it will idle right where I want it to ~14.7.
Attached is my current tune file (I know the whole VE table is not tuned, but the bottom end/idle looks good enough).
#24
I tried opening your tune under a new project with your current firmware that was on your .msq and got so many errors I didnt feel like reading them. Send me all the details of your build and Ill try to get you a decent start up map while Im at work. Then we can go from there. Otherwise I feel like were pissing in the wind. Also reflash to the newest firmware again. Its freakin **** and BEER.
#25
Ok try this map and use these jumpers for AC
Add 2.2k resister to r14
1Q>Input 1 IN
Input 1 OUT>PE1
PA0> Relay 1 IN
Relay 1 Out > 1J and 4S.
Post results. This map is intended to fix your output settings and correct the AC Idle up setting you had before as well as turn off EGO control until you get a more developed tune. IMO I never use EGO control. Never really had enough reason to turn it on
Add 2.2k resister to r14
1Q>Input 1 IN
Input 1 OUT>PE1
PA0> Relay 1 IN
Relay 1 Out > 1J and 4S.
Post results. This map is intended to fix your output settings and correct the AC Idle up setting you had before as well as turn off EGO control until you get a more developed tune. IMO I never use EGO control. Never really had enough reason to turn it on
#26
Ok try this map and use these jumpers for AC
Add 2.2k resister to r14
1Q>Input 1 IN
Input 1 OUT>PE1
PA0> Relay 1 IN
Relay 1 Out > 1J and 4S.
Post results. This map is intended to fix your output settings and correct the AC Idle up setting you had before as well as turn off EGO control until you get a more developed tune. IMO I never use EGO control. Never really had enough reason to turn it on
Add 2.2k resister to r14
1Q>Input 1 IN
Input 1 OUT>PE1
PA0> Relay 1 IN
Relay 1 Out > 1J and 4S.
Post results. This map is intended to fix your output settings and correct the AC Idle up setting you had before as well as turn off EGO control until you get a more developed tune. IMO I never use EGO control. Never really had enough reason to turn it on
#27
Are you sure about 1Q, 1J, and 4S? Not trying to doubt you, but judging by DIYautotunes page these aren't the AC/Rad fan I/O's (DIYPNP MegaSquirt installation for the Mazda Miata). If your sure, I'll go change that!
Sorry I meant 1P, 1S & 1l. I was helping another person with a 95 earlier.
#30
1. Once the car warmed up, I think I hear some ping at idle (I didn't try driving it). AFR's read ~14 and timing is only around 15-17.
2. My AC compressor idle up is not working properly, and on top of that, it appears that the compressor is still "always engaged." No matter which way I turn the AC button, or fan position, there is no change in idle and the air is always ice cold (it's ~70 degrees here ambient temp). I tried searching, but everyone with a similar problem seems to have the opposite where the AC comp will not engage.....
3. It didn't look like VICS was configured, and why isn't coolant based on CLT temp? Also, why shouldn't I be running CL idle?
*edit* here is the log file.
#31
So tried the tune and a few odd things are happening:
1. Once the car warmed up, I think I hear some ping at idle (I didn't try driving it). AFR's read ~14 and timing is only around 15-17.
2. My AC compressor idle up is not working properly, and on top of that, it appears that the compressor is still "always engaged." No matter which way I turn the AC button, or fan position, there is no change in idle and the air is always ice cold (it's ~70 degrees here ambient temp). I tried searching, but everyone with a similar problem seems to have the opposite where the AC comp will not engage.....
3. It didn't look like VICS was configured, and why isn't coolant based on CLT temp? Also, why shouldn't I be running CL idle?
*edit* here is the log file.
1. Once the car warmed up, I think I hear some ping at idle (I didn't try driving it). AFR's read ~14 and timing is only around 15-17.
2. My AC compressor idle up is not working properly, and on top of that, it appears that the compressor is still "always engaged." No matter which way I turn the AC button, or fan position, there is no change in idle and the air is always ice cold (it's ~70 degrees here ambient temp). I tried searching, but everyone with a similar problem seems to have the opposite where the AC comp will not engage.....
3. It didn't look like VICS was configured, and why isn't coolant based on CLT temp? Also, why shouldn't I be running CL idle?
*edit* here is the log file.
#32
Weird. the reason why I took of Closed loop is to eliminate your idle fluctuations or eliminate closed loop being the case. Closed loop idle is not something you tune tell the very end. I havent even fully perfected my closed loop idle yet just because I am still playing with hot restart enrichment. Once thats done than Ill tighten up closed loop a little more. As for the AC Compressor I think you have something going on with your jumpers. Could you post HQ pictures f the front and back of your board. Maybe at this point you may even want to roll back your firmware since you said it was fine before. I wonder if when you update your msq after updateing your firmware if you didnt update it correctly. Could you also post your msq from when the car was running correctly?
#33
Okay, so as I was buzzing out the circuit, I found what I had and was recommended can not work. First off, that radiator circuit will not work. WLD is a relay, so putting it in series with relay 1 will never control 1R as 1R never get's input voltage. 1R must go directly to WLD. Problem 1 solved. Problem 2: 1P needs to control 1S and 1I, but 1P also needs to go to PE1 to tell the ECU when to idle up. So here is my issue; how do I connect 1P to the IS-1I circuit and relay 2? drawing for reference, please pardon MSpaint. What goes where? And what does R14 do?
Last edited by aeathb; 01-16-2014 at 04:02 PM.
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