Hello All,
I have been an active viewer of this site for over three years but I have never had a need to create an account until this weekend when I installed my DIYPNP in my 99. I spent most of the weekend trying to make the car turn over with limited success so I’ve decided to make a post as a sanity check to make sure my TS settings are correct before I pull the megasquirt out and check wiring.

Here are my specs:
DIYPNP Nippon Denso 76 pin Version 1.5 with sequential ignition add-on
NA alternator swap reading 14v at the battery
Toyota COP conversion using (the great) Brianeack’s post https://www.miataturbo.net/useful-sa...writeup-12704/
Stock injectors (I have rx-8 yellow ones that I will install after I get the car running and start all over again)
GM IAT
Innovate MTX-L Wideband

Before the megasquirt install the car ran great so I am lead to believe that any issue with the car has been created by the new megasquirt. When I turn the key the car will fire but sounds awful as if there is a misfire or timing is way off. However, all four plugs have spark which was confirmed by checking with a timing light. The engine runs as long as I am applying a little bit of throttle but dies at idle. When it dies there is usually a pop leading me to think that the car is running rich. I cannot keep the engine running long enough to check timing (which may be my major issue). I left TS on wasted spark since the Toyota COP doesn’t convert the car to a true COP setup. Also, my log file shows 100% for EGO con1 which I am confused about. Does this mean I wired my wideband incorrectly?

TS Settings: Starting with the 99 Miata base map from DIY Autotune I calibrated TPS CLT and IAT.
I switched to sequential ignition and used the settings recommended on DIY Autotune.
Set timing to fixed @ 10 degrees
Adjusted crank dwell, nominal dwell and battery dwell to match Braineak’s suggested for Toyota COP

Would someone be willing to check my TS settings to see if I am missing something?
My TS settings and log files are attached and here is a link to a short video showing my car running(ish).

Any and all help is appreciated!

 

Here are some screenshots of the tune and datalog

 

Try disconnecting the fuel pump fuse and checking timing while cranking.

 

Oops I forgot to mention that I tried pulling the fuel relay already. I tried it again tonight with the same result. The timing light came on and off intermittently which leads me to believe that there is a wiring issue? I'm going to pull the MS this weekend and check all my solder joints. Did anything else in my tune stand out as an issue?

 

I took a look at the data log and there appears to be a sync loss issue. Can you capture that in a composite log?

 

Thanks for looking Matt! I've already taken the MS out but when I plug it in I will do a composite log. The sync loss issue might have been due to me cycling the key in-between cranking but I'll see if i can replicate it. After looking at the MS board I think I might have found my problem. It looks like I accidentally installed a resistor where a diode should have been in the pull up area for IAC. Plus it is connected to the 5V out instead of 12V. Here are some photos. Hopefully you'll agree

Sidenote: I'm new to the forum, is this the best way to upload pictures?

 

Solved: It appears that I had two issues. The first was the IAC pull up pictured above which had a resistor instead the flyback diode (1N4001DICT-ND) installed. I guess thats what I get for trying to wire it at night The second was that I had my WB02 wired to the 12V switched cigarette lighter which doesn't supply power during crank. This was solved by rewiring the WB to a 12V source that stays hot during crank.

 

Updating my old threads.... this one turned out to be a coil-pack issue. My Toyota COPs didn't like the megasquirt very much, maybe this was due to me being lazy and not installing the capacitor. I got a new stock 99 coil-pack and the car fired right up.

 

I’m running MS3-Basic from Reverant, COP’s, no Capacitor. Had to use firmware filtering to not have sync losses, but it works fine after I did that. Rev’s cam and crank input circuits are Opti-couplers, rather than VR.

 

Do you suggest that I rewire mine to match Rev's? I haven't been able to find wiring for a 99 except for the ones on DIYPNP's website. I wonder if Braineack will ever add it to trubokitty.
Since you have a 99' would you looking at my current issue of crank but no start? It might be related to the wiring.
https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...-thread-95902/

 

No. I'm not nearly that knowledgeable. I'm just sharing my little bit of experience. What I would suggest, as I so much prefer the COP to the stock coils, is that you re-try with the FW filtering on. If you want to try that, I can share my Noise Filter Curve, etc.

Also, in case there is any bearing, I am set up for sequential spark.

 

the capacitor has nothing to do with that. did you update your tune for lower dwell times?

nope I never will. never had an issue with this in the ~hundreds of diypnps I've built.


can I see the bottom of you board?

 

Yes. From what I can tell, the VR input should be more forgiving than the Opti-coupler. Ask Ian.