cooling fan issue
#1
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cooling fan issue
So, I noticed yesterday that my cooling fan isn't comming on with the MS installed. The fan is still controlled by the stock ECU, I checked the fuse and replaced the relay. I've also plugged the AUX fan into the main fan harness (didn't have my multimeter handy) and it didn't turn on either so I doubt it's the fan.
I'm thinking this might be related to the same reason my MS is ready low on the coolant temp, perhaps the stock ECU is also reading low with the MS connected? I'm running 029q with assiedriver's CLT specs and I'm reading 20-30*F cold (72*C at operating temp). Anyone have ideas? I'm going to unplug the MS CLT tap this evening and see if the stock ecu will turn the fan on then and verify with my meter that I'm getting/not getting 12V at the plug. Think I could have somehow fried the fan output or the CLT input on the stock ecu?
I'm thinking this might be related to the same reason my MS is ready low on the coolant temp, perhaps the stock ECU is also reading low with the MS connected? I'm running 029q with assiedriver's CLT specs and I'm reading 20-30*F cold (72*C at operating temp). Anyone have ideas? I'm going to unplug the MS CLT tap this evening and see if the stock ecu will turn the fan on then and verify with my meter that I'm getting/not getting 12V at the plug. Think I could have somehow fried the fan output or the CLT input on the stock ecu?
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72C at operating temp seems fine... does it ever get above 110C? heck, does it ever get above 80? maybe the fan just isn't coming on because it doesn't need to.
FWIW the hydra defaults are: fan1 92C, fan2 96C
FWIW the hydra defaults are: fan1 92C, fan2 96C
#3
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MS= 72C = 160*F (roughly) when my gauge is reading 190*F... I didn't catch what MS was reading @210*F (where the fan should kick in stock). My point is that the fan is not turning on when it should (I'm not an idiot, I know when it should/shouldn't be on), and MS is reading way low... so I'm trying to determine if maybe the stock ECU is also reading low due to my install method or something. Cause right now my **** is screwed up.
Last edited by Arkmage; 02-02-2007 at 11:15 PM.
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http://msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=221...freeze+coolant
it appears I need to remove the MS bias resistors? that doesn't seem correct.... anyone else leave the stock 2.49K resistors (R4/R7) in place without a problem? I guess this question would only apply to 1.8L owners as the 1.6 just had a switch that directly controlled the fans via the T-stat housing.
it appears I need to remove the MS bias resistors? that doesn't seem correct.... anyone else leave the stock 2.49K resistors (R4/R7) in place without a problem? I guess this question would only apply to 1.8L owners as the 1.6 just had a switch that directly controlled the fans via the T-stat housing.
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i find this a bit odd because when I ran MS as a full standalone briefly a few months back, my fans came on when they should have. However, you have a 97 and it may have different wiring. I believe the 90 simply uses that thing above the thermostat as a temperature operated switch. Hell, if it comes down to it, splice into the wiring and have megasquirt control the fans directly with one of its aux outputs.
nevermind, need to read
nevermind, need to read
#6
I posted this in your other thread, but just in case you don't see it: I'm not sure how this would be an issue...but I think the best way to check it is to hook up a volt meter before tapping with the MS, measuring the signal, then tap the MS, and measure the signal and see what the difference is.
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