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Can someone check my tune please

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Old 04-22-2018, 08:25 PM
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Default Can someone check my tune please

Hey can someone take a look over my map. I put in about 2 hours today street tuning and its running really well, better than the off the shelf basemap. This is mainly a track car so I was focusing on the higher load areas of the map today. I basically took the MS basemap and rescaled it, tweaked/smoothed the ignition map then adjusted the AFR and VE map. I didn't touch the VVT map since I wanted to take it one step at a time. I pulled some timing out of the top of the map just to be on the safe side. Im not looking for every last bit of power in a street tune just as long as its safe. Goal of this map is to make sure its safe for an upcoming track day on the 28th. I will probably mix a couple gallons of 98oct in as cheap insurance while I'm on track since they sell it right there at the Sunoco race pumps. Im planning to get it on a load bearing dyno soon and really dial it in. I was using det cans for this and I'm fairly confident there is no knock currently but before I go to the dyno I want a new set setup since these leave alot to be desired.. Anyone have any experience with the Plex Knock Monitor V2? I like that I can use it on other cars. I know these engines are noisy blah blah so I would rather be listening for knock myself than relying on the built in knock module in MS3. Car is cooling off now then I'm going to pull the spark plugs and check them just to make sure theres nothing funky going on.

I noticed on the basemap they have timing advanced to almost 36* in the 90-95kpa, 5k-7k rpm, range in like a hump. Im not sure why it was like that so I flattened that out and the car felt better afterwards. Im pretty sure only 32* total advance on 93oct should be safe enough. AFR targets were 12.8 at WOT.

'99 NB1 with VVT 1.8 swap
MS3Pro PNP
93oct fuel
JDM intake manifold
Custom carbon intake with aem filter
Raceland headers, no cat
MBS spec miata catback

Log attached is 2nd - most of 5th (ignore the MAP reading for first 4 seconds as I was merging on the highway)
Attached Files
File Type: msq
CurrentTune.msq (230.5 KB, 186 views)
File Type: msl
2018-04-22_14.51.56.msl (79.5 KB, 46 views)
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Old 04-23-2018, 07:28 PM
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I pulled the plugs to check them and I didn't see any pitting or speckling on the white porcelain. Unless someone writes what the hell did you do to that map I guess ill run it as is but with fresh plugs and check them after the first session on track..

Last edited by cnano8; 04-23-2018 at 08:40 PM.
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Old 04-24-2018, 12:50 PM
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Lol comprehensive post, no response... Retarded post with half of the needed information gets a bunch of replies flaming the OP for not enough info.
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Old 04-24-2018, 01:02 PM
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it sounds like you have it. Thats probably causing lack of response. If its the timing, most people are going to tell you to tune that on a dyno, if you dont want to run the base map. you arent likely to get someone to say" yeah, i would move 13.2 to that cell".

You said the car runs and is getting better. Not sure what you are looking for. There is not a majic tune for everyone.
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Old 04-24-2018, 01:37 PM
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I get what your saying and I compiled the info for this map from looking as many 1.8 maps, particularly VVT maps, as possible and made what I thought was safe. I know on a dyno you can tweak the tune exactly for that respective engine but lets be real most of these cars have the same mods and same engine. The tune will not be drastically different. Just want to make sure there arent any blatant red flags with the tune that I missed. Not looking for any more responses here at this point I'm just going to run it and see what happens, live and learn.
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Old 04-24-2018, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by cnano8
I get what your saying and I compiled the info for this map from looking as many 1.8 maps, particularly VVT maps, as possible and made what I thought was safe. I know on a dyno you can tweak the tune exactly for that respective engine but lets be real most of these cars have the same mods and same engine. The tune will not be drastically different. Just want to make sure there arent any blatant red flags with the tune that I missed. Not looking for any more responses here at this point I'm just going to run it and see what happens, live and learn.
from what I have seen, most of the big ole boys are using the turbo"tuner" ignition map from DIY, then jsut up or down 2° across the board to find the sweet spot. Thats all I did, hell i didnt mod it at all. tuner map, my own AFRs, throw boost at it.

I think you got this.
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Old 04-24-2018, 07:06 PM
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Thanks for the help, most tracks I run here in the northeast have race fuel on site. Even if I had a tune that I knew was 100% bombproof I would probably still mix in a few gallons of higher octane (unleaded) just to be safe ($20 for some fancy fuel vs $700 for a new engine). I know weird things tend to happen when **** gets pretty hot after 20 minutes of essentially WOT. I think eventually ill end up going down he e85 rabbit hole but it will cost me a point or two for the class that I run.
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