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UEGO has 2 wideband outputs: serial TX and Analog+.
I found brain's instructions stating to use the white wire from uego to the blue input wire in the pigtail. I have the 12v and ground plugged in as well. When I try to turn the car on I get no wideband signal and the gauge doesn't power on. I double checked and everything is plugged in. I figured my connectors were messed up so I cut the wires and used new connectors, still nothing.
Trying to turn the car on and no signal. The ecu is set to Wideband AFR-default.
One note: the stock narrowband is still plugged in. There was nothing in the instructions that said it had to be cut out. I figured that you could just tell the ecu to disregard the stock sensor if you select the wideband, especially if it's coming in from this input. Am I wrong? Was I supposed to clip the stock connector and splice the wires in there or do both setups work?
I don't think this would explain why no power is being supplied to the gauges either right? Running a multimeter on continuity doesn't show any flow with the car in the on position.
What am I doing wrong?
:/
Snip from brain's instructions, my wiring, and the uego manual.
Everything plugged in tight on the back of the gauge? Have you tried another power source?
Step one would be to get the gauge powered on. If it still doesn't turn on you may have a dead gauge.
Perhaps it's because it's not grounded as brain said below. The plugs are clipped in.
I bought the gauge used on here a few months ago I hope it wasn't a dud...
Originally Posted by Braineack
im wondering if the brown is the sensor's ground and needs to be grounded in order to work.
you should be able to put a DMM on the white wire and read voltage.
Should I splice the brown wire in with the other gauge for ground? I'll try the dmm as well.
I had to cut out your connector because I wasn't sure if that was the issue and I ran out of wiring space. I'll have to extend the wires a bit to keep at this
Everything plugged in tight on the back of the gauge? Have you tried another power source?
Step one would be to get the gauge powered on. If it still doesn't turn on you may have a dead gauge.
Perhaps it's because it's not grounded as brain said below. The plugs are clipped in.
I bought the gauge used on here a few months ago I hope it wasn't a dud...
Originally Posted by Braineack
im wondering if the brown is the sensor's ground and needs to be grounded in order to work.
you should be able to put a DMM on the white wire and read voltage.
Should I splice the brown wire in with the other gauge for ground? I'll try the dmm as well.
I had to cut out your connector because I wasn't sure if that was the issue and I ran out of wiring space. I'll have to extend the wires a bit to keep at this. Womp.
Sounds like it's time to bench-test the Gauge. It should at least power up with just the red wire hooked up to 12V and the black to gnd. Stop by tomorrow and we'll see what we can do.
Sounds like it's time to bench-test the Gauge. It should at least power up with just the red wire hooked up to 12V and the black to gnd. Stop by tomorrow and we'll see what we can do.
Womp. I didn't drive it here. It's not running right now. I'm in the subie. Looking forward to getting a ride along!
Stefan talked me through the tests to figure out where the issue was originating.
First we checked the gauge. I held the red/black wires up to the car battery and it flashed on. Okay, so gauge is working. Of note: I did not kill myself. Stefan says that would be hard to do. He doesn't know me well yet though. I am capable of impressive things.
Second, I decided to check if the MS was actually supplying power. First, I ensured that I was on the right setting by using the MM on the battery to ensure it was supplying 12V. It was.The harnesses are plugged in tight, so no issue there. I put in butt connectors to the power and ground wires and shoved the MM wires into the other end. Turned the key to the 'on' position. Andddd no power.
So it appears that the megasquirt isn't supplying 12V power. I don't know if I can trust the signal and ground wires either at this point, otherwise I'd try powering the gauge/wideband by splicing into the radio and seeing if the megasquirt gets a signal from the wideband at all.
Wait - you were supplying power via the MS? Is that a common thing? I suplied power to mine via a switched 12v signal. In my case it is a relay driven off the fuel pump signal and powered by a run directly from the battery to behind the dash.
Wait - you were supplying power via the MS? Is that a common thing? I suplied power to mine via a switched 12v signal. In my case it is a relay driven off the fuel pump signal and powered by a run directly from the battery to behind the dash.
I don't make the rules, I just follow them.
Bought a braineack unit, blindly following his directions!
Waiting to hear what Brain has to say... Without knowing how the MS is supplying power (through what fuses, relays, and output pins on the unit itself) I can't make any more comments or speculations.
Waiting to hear what Brain has to say... Without knowing how the MS is supplying power (through what fuses, relays, and output pins on the unit itself) I can't make any more comments or speculations.
the MS doesn't supply the power, it's SUPPOSED to come from the white/red oe harness -- the same source that powers the MS.
RTC, email me and we'll figure out why youre not getting 12v there.
the MS doesn't supply the power, it's SUPPOSED to come from the white/red oe harness -- the same source that powers the MS.
RTC, email me and we'll figure out why youre not getting 12v there.
Yeah MS is getting power because I've connected the laptop to it. It doesn't have any lights so I can't tell if there's a status it's displaying via the light.