99 turbo map
#3
OK, as much as that didn't help at all... I have managed to get the car to crank over, but the idle is all screwed up. After cranking, it immediately ramps up to 4krpm, then drops and idles around 2.5k rpm. Afr's at idle are reading between 21.3 - 22.5. What issue should I tackle first and how do I go about doing so?
#5
I did, but the base maps they had where WAY off. I plugged in all my values for my injectors, made sure my ignition timing was verified and reading correctly on the ms, then calibrated all my gauges. I played with a few values. Right now, I got the idle smooth, its hitting right at 14.7 afr, consistently. Now it is just idling REALLY high. Stable, at around 2.6k RPM'S. I haven't tried to adjust the idle screw. I'm at work right now, so I can't do anything. But if that only works so much, how and I supposed to lower even more if need be? I'm just trying to get a game plan going, that way I can tackle this issue as soon as I get home tonight.
I have a lot of questions, this is my first tune that I have attempted, so any ideas and any tips would be greatly appreciated.
#6
don't touch the screw. never touch the screw.
you need to tune your car. before you do that, you need to learn how to tune.
start by reading up on the ways of tuning the specific things that you need to tune. in this case the idle. do the idle valve test. figure out the min/max values, plug them in, then start tuning the spark/fuel at idle, as well as closed loop idle control.
if their base map doesn't work then no one's base map will work. plugging in values blindly is idiotic and a waste of time. good luck
PS: are you sure you don't have a leak?
you need to tune your car. before you do that, you need to learn how to tune.
start by reading up on the ways of tuning the specific things that you need to tune. in this case the idle. do the idle valve test. figure out the min/max values, plug them in, then start tuning the spark/fuel at idle, as well as closed loop idle control.
if their base map doesn't work then no one's base map will work. plugging in values blindly is idiotic and a waste of time. good luck
PS: are you sure you don't have a leak?
#7
don't touch the screw. never touch the screw.
you need to tune your car. before you do that, you need to learn how to tune.
start by reading up on the ways of tuning the specific things that you need to tune. in this case the idle. do the idle valve test. figure out the min/max values, plug them in, then start tuning the spark/fuel at idle, as well as closed loop idle control.
if their base map doesn't work then no one's base map will work. plugging in values blindly is idiotic and a waste of time. good luck
PS: are you sure you don't have a leak?
you need to tune your car. before you do that, you need to learn how to tune.
start by reading up on the ways of tuning the specific things that you need to tune. in this case the idle. do the idle valve test. figure out the min/max values, plug them in, then start tuning the spark/fuel at idle, as well as closed loop idle control.
if their base map doesn't work then no one's base map will work. plugging in values blindly is idiotic and a waste of time. good luck
PS: are you sure you don't have a leak?
I just tried another base tune and it ran really steddy, but there was a constant flame out of my exhaust(wtf makes THAT happen?), so I think maybe I'm done with finding base maps?
I've got the ECU synchronized with the car, I've got my engine constants and my injector info set, along with gauges synchronized with tunerstudio. As soon as I plug the numbers in and start it up, it goes straight to the symptoms I stated before. So I guess what I am ultimately trying to say is, where would be a good point to start next, and how to the fuel/ign tables effect each other?
I'm sorry, I'm a noon at this, and it is a lot of information at once.
#8
Idling at 14.7 is a start. Check your idle settings and make sure its Warmup PWM for now. Once your car is warmed up, start decreasing your idle DC in idle warmup PWM map slowly until it settles down. Once you reach the RPM you are looking for you will likely be in a different part of your VE table, so adjust it again until you're idling at 14.7 ish. If it stalls or its unstable, you may need to increase timing.
#9
Idling at 14.7 is a start. Check your idle settings and make sure its Warmup PWM for now. Once your car is warmed up, start decreasing your idle DC in idle warmup PWM map slowly until it settles down. Once you reach the RPM you are looking for you will likely be in a different part of your VE table, so adjust it again until you're idling at 14.7 ish. If it stalls or its unstable, you may need to increase timing.
OK, thank you. It was the adjustments in to the PWM that I had been missing. I already had myself going in circles for a second.
Also, I do not have IAC installed. Will this pose a problem?
#12
I've got the idle smooth, but when I start it up, afr is at 7.5 and after about 30 sec. It jumps to 22.30. Nothing I am doing is changing my afr at all. Maybe I am missing something between the interaction between the different values. Just so II can cover my own track and make sure my mind is in the right place, can someone briefly explain how to change fuel characteristics (ie. dead time, VE, ase enrichment) the mechanical parts are all good, there are no vac/boost/air leaks anywhere. My motor and all my parts are good. It is this "tune" thing that I can't get my head around. And I keep reading and reading and nothing seams to stick or make any sense.
And can someone tell me why everywhere I go to research all of this, it keeps turning me to PWM, but I have dang near ZERO options on my ms that has anything to do with PWM.
And can someone tell me why everywhere I go to research all of this, it keeps turning me to PWM, but I have dang near ZERO options on my ms that has anything to do with PWM.
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10-26-2015 11:18 AM