94 cam angle sensor diag.
#4
I'm doing this myself... I'm actually using the Sync Error logger tho.
From what I understand tho, spark blowout(caused by a number of things including a failing plug wire or the coilpacks) can/will cause a reset in the data logs, but will this show up in the Sync Error logger as well?
If there are blips in my trigger/tooth readings, does this directly indicate a failing cam position sensor?
These blips are associated with a random misfire.
From what I understand tho, spark blowout(caused by a number of things including a failing plug wire or the coilpacks) can/will cause a reset in the data logs, but will this show up in the Sync Error logger as well?
If there are blips in my trigger/tooth readings, does this directly indicate a failing cam position sensor?
These blips are associated with a random misfire.
#5
Boost Pope
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From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
An ignition misfire itself will not cause a reset. You'll know when you get a reset by the red line in the log view, and a RESET indication in the log plaintext.
Blips in the trigger / tooth indication probably correspond to a problem with the CAS signal. Doesn't necessarily indicate a bad CAS, you might just be using the "stock" CAS input circuit on the MS, which is ****.
Blips in the trigger / tooth indication probably correspond to a problem with the CAS signal. Doesn't necessarily indicate a bad CAS, you might just be using the "stock" CAS input circuit on the MS, which is ****.
#7
Boost Pope
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From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Wouldn't this problem have been present all along if this were the case or does the circuit begin to cause problems randomly?
Are you seeing RPM spikes on the log? Are you getting actual processor resets?
#8
Yes I'm getting the red line, but not all the time. Sometimes I'll feel the misfire, but it there is no reset in the log.
It was happening pretty rarely... now it's upto about every 3rd time I drive the car I feel like 1 - 2 misfires over a 15 - 20 minute drive.
---- Forgot to mention the tach drops. No always to 0 but when it misfires the tach drops to 0. Or close to 0( if I'm past say 3500 rpms).
But this does NOT show in the logs.
Last edited by Turbobarber; 08-17-2010 at 05:42 PM. Reason: Details Details....
#9
Boost Pope
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From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
If you're getting resets in the log, I doubt seriously that the CAS or the CAS input circuit has anything to do with it. I'd be focusing more on grounding, and on high-current stuff like the injectors and IAC.
Damned odd...
Damned odd...
#11
I've been reviewing my logs more closely. Obviously someone else should be tuning the car... lol
The resets are from key off. I usually try to run a log to work and from work, but don't always get to look at them, and I accumulate a pile of logs that I no longer remember much about their drives. Anyway having looked at them it's clear the car was off for a few minutes(clt temps dropped during the off time). Probably stops at the gas station and such.
So. This being said, and having seen blips in the trigger/tooth logger, reading(briefly) on other threads, I'm going to attempt the shielded wiring for the CAS. This sounds like a possible fix. Perhaps some more/better grounds as well? I think so... I really hope this is a problem solver.
I am very interested in the 36-1 crank trigger wheel, but Joe's method with the lathe sounds expensive. I like the DIY website using the wheel spacers, but I'm guessing since Joe didn't do that, DIY's spacers won't work? I didn't get to read his thread in detail yet, but it was an excellent finished product having seen the pics.
I also noted that Joe's setup was a fix for 99-00 cars, but I wonder if anyone with a 96-97 car has swapped to a trigger wheel? - Excellent fix for the $360 Cam sensor situation... I can't believe they want that much for it!
The resets are from key off. I usually try to run a log to work and from work, but don't always get to look at them, and I accumulate a pile of logs that I no longer remember much about their drives. Anyway having looked at them it's clear the car was off for a few minutes(clt temps dropped during the off time). Probably stops at the gas station and such.
So. This being said, and having seen blips in the trigger/tooth logger, reading(briefly) on other threads, I'm going to attempt the shielded wiring for the CAS. This sounds like a possible fix. Perhaps some more/better grounds as well? I think so... I really hope this is a problem solver.
I am very interested in the 36-1 crank trigger wheel, but Joe's method with the lathe sounds expensive. I like the DIY website using the wheel spacers, but I'm guessing since Joe didn't do that, DIY's spacers won't work? I didn't get to read his thread in detail yet, but it was an excellent finished product having seen the pics.
I also noted that Joe's setup was a fix for 99-00 cars, but I wonder if anyone with a 96-97 car has swapped to a trigger wheel? - Excellent fix for the $360 Cam sensor situation... I can't believe they want that much for it!
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