18 psi with no FMIC. I smell another RatFuck
#1
18 psi with no FMIC
I don't have my pump pressure on the WI set up to keep it stable though. So until i get to realy tunning it i will back it off to good ole 14 psi. here is the MLV for any who are interested.
To recap fleabay manifolds ceramic caoted
MHI small 16g
Parker store lines
Ebay knock off BOV
MS1 running fuel
LC1 WB 02
act Xtreme PP 4 puck unsprung disk
Vodoo MBC with ace hardware spring
Snow performance WI with cooling mist nozzle on a selonoid for stage 2 for a total of about 7 gph.
High impedance 542 cc/min injectors flowed and test by witchhunter performance. feeling 18 psi priceless.
To recap fleabay manifolds ceramic caoted
MHI small 16g
Parker store lines
Ebay knock off BOV
MS1 running fuel
LC1 WB 02
act Xtreme PP 4 puck unsprung disk
Vodoo MBC with ace hardware spring
Snow performance WI with cooling mist nozzle on a selonoid for stage 2 for a total of about 7 gph.
High impedance 542 cc/min injectors flowed and test by witchhunter performance. feeling 18 psi priceless.
Last edited by magnamx-5; 09-16-2007 at 05:33 AM. Reason: Some one jacked the title
#8
AIT is ambient under hood temps, CLT is accurate i gues i dunno i think adam got that one right. I run a 170 or so degree thermostat at like 80% water with no FMshitercooler. I would realy like a oil cooler though so i can keep the water temps around 140 or so degrees and the oil at 190-210 max.
#10
Boost Czar
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AIT is ambient under hood temps, CLT is accurate i gues i dunno i think adam got that one right. I run a 170 or so degree thermostat at like 80% water with no FMshitercooler. I would realy like a oil cooler though so i can keep the water temps around 140 or so degrees and the oil at 190-210 max.
there's no way your water is cruising at 150°F. Betcha $10 your R7 resistor is still install is fubaring the readings. All you gotta do to confirm is idle untill the fans kick on. if they come on anythign less than 200°F (93C), you know it's not reading right.
your intake temps dont move whatsoever. if you run WI at 5psi like you say, then I'd expect a small bump in temps at the onset of boost. your intake temps barely move that entire log.
can you go out and take a 3rd gear pull from 2000RPM to redline and then stop it?
#19
DEI liberal femininity
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Location: Fake Virginia
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ummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm brokes!
1. your car is running a little cold. 140F? brr. should be like 190F. the sun heating the interior of your car is 140F. fix that sensor.
2. how do you know if WI is better than an IC if you dont actually measure your intake temps?? fix that sensor too.
1. your car is running a little cold. 140F? brr. should be like 190F. the sun heating the interior of your car is 140F. fix that sensor.
2. how do you know if WI is better than an IC if you dont actually measure your intake temps?? fix that sensor too.
#20
but tapping the manifold is to hard. and tapping the crossover gets me nothing. Just suffice it to say 17-18 psi on stock timming with minor oil pressure gauge detonation if i stay in it to long. i am sure that by tunning my pump pressure abit more or tunning it on the dyno i can do better. But i also have to fix my fuel wich for some reason is close to 12-1 through most of the range wich it should be a little higher to help me spool abit. But for a raod tune on stock spark maps i think it is pretty damn sweet. Maybe this winter when i have chad or someone help me with my spark and EBC i will have them check the rest of the unit. But doesn't MS control fans as well. I coulda swore mine was set to come on at 170 F