1.8 BPT MegasquirtII No Tach/CAS
#1
1.8 BPT MegasquirtII No Tach/CAS
Hello all, I'm a total noob to this megasquirt thing. I'm trying to feel my way through the setup in my B2600.
So here's my setup:
JDM 1.8 BPT
Miata 1.8 Intake
Aftermarket Miata 1.8 turbo manifold
CT-26 Turbo
GM IAT
OEM Coolant Temp Sensor
OEM Distributor with new cap
1.8 EGT Ignitor
1.8 EGT Ignition Coil
OEM BPT Injectors/fuel rail
MegaSquirt-II Engine Management System w/PCB3 - Assembled Unit
Ok so i'll start by stating i originally was just going to use the OEM BPT ECU. I got it wired up and it was not putting out signal to the Injectors. At the time i could spray starter fluid in the intake and it would fire and run as long as I kept spraying. My mechanic buddy suggested i pull all the oe harness and switch to a megasquirt II.
I pulled all the wiring and started fresh by going straight to sensors and leaving them with pigtails. I ran new wires from all the sensors to the MS. I started by downloading a basic 1.8 Escort GT map and loading it. Currently the Coolant temp, TPS work great. I can't seem to figure out how to get Tach/CPS to work which I assume is why there's no spark. I am only using 3 wires off the DIZZY wiring;
Yellow / Blue = G signal not connected
Pink / Black = NE Signal going to pin 24 on MSII
White / Red = +12V
Black / Lt Grn = Sensor GND
On Tuner Studio the RPMs are not there at all. I guess my questions are these, am i wired correctly to the dizzy? Next what are the correct settings on the ignition tab?
Side note, the Injectors are working great now.
Thanks,
David
So here's my setup:
JDM 1.8 BPT
Miata 1.8 Intake
Aftermarket Miata 1.8 turbo manifold
CT-26 Turbo
GM IAT
OEM Coolant Temp Sensor
OEM Distributor with new cap
1.8 EGT Ignitor
1.8 EGT Ignition Coil
OEM BPT Injectors/fuel rail
MegaSquirt-II Engine Management System w/PCB3 - Assembled Unit
Ok so i'll start by stating i originally was just going to use the OEM BPT ECU. I got it wired up and it was not putting out signal to the Injectors. At the time i could spray starter fluid in the intake and it would fire and run as long as I kept spraying. My mechanic buddy suggested i pull all the oe harness and switch to a megasquirt II.
I pulled all the wiring and started fresh by going straight to sensors and leaving them with pigtails. I ran new wires from all the sensors to the MS. I started by downloading a basic 1.8 Escort GT map and loading it. Currently the Coolant temp, TPS work great. I can't seem to figure out how to get Tach/CPS to work which I assume is why there's no spark. I am only using 3 wires off the DIZZY wiring;
Yellow / Blue = G signal not connected
Pink / Black = NE Signal going to pin 24 on MSII
White / Red = +12V
Black / Lt Grn = Sensor GND
On Tuner Studio the RPMs are not there at all. I guess my questions are these, am i wired correctly to the dizzy? Next what are the correct settings on the ignition tab?
Side note, the Injectors are working great now.
Thanks,
David
#2
heres a pic of her
Matt @ DIYautotune emailed me back and suggested i get a 400-600 ohm resistor and put it on the NE signal and 12v ign wire to get tach going. He was spot on. So now i have RPM reading on the Tuner Studio. I still have no spark though. The ignitor is reading 1.8v when key is on or cranking. I attached my DMM to the 12v and ground of it.
Green/white: connected to 12v ignition
Yellow/Blue: connected to ignition coil (other wire on coil is blue and goes to ign 12v)
black orange: connected to pin 36 of ms brown wire
is this correct on the ignitor and coil? is that a proper reading on ignitor?
Matt @ DIYautotune emailed me back and suggested i get a 400-600 ohm resistor and put it on the NE signal and 12v ign wire to get tach going. He was spot on. So now i have RPM reading on the Tuner Studio. I still have no spark though. The ignitor is reading 1.8v when key is on or cranking. I attached my DMM to the 12v and ground of it.
Green/white: connected to 12v ignition
Yellow/Blue: connected to ignition coil (other wire on coil is blue and goes to ign 12v)
black orange: connected to pin 36 of ms brown wire
is this correct on the ignitor and coil? is that a proper reading on ignitor?
Last edited by David Phillips; 10-28-2015 at 05:36 PM.
#3
Update: Matt from DIYautotune emailed me back and suggested i add a 400-600 ohm resistor to the ne/ign wire to get tach. He was spot on, and rpsm then pulled up in the tuner studio. I'm now onto no spark still. The ignitor is metering at 1.8v when key is on or cranking. I have it wired to:
black/orange: to brown ms pin36
green/white: to 12v ign
yellow/blue: to ignition coil (other wire of ign coil is blue and has ign 12v on it)
what are normal reads on the ignitor? is it wired correctly?
Thanks,
David
black/orange: to brown ms pin36
green/white: to 12v ign
yellow/blue: to ignition coil (other wire of ign coil is blue and has ign 12v on it)
what are normal reads on the ignitor? is it wired correctly?
Thanks,
David
#4
Matt @ DIYautotune emailed me back and suggested i get a 400-600 ohm resistor and put it on the NE signal and 12v ign wire to get tach going. He was spot on. So now i have RPM reading on the Tuner Studio. I still have no spark though. The ignitor is reading 1.8v when key is on or cranking. I attached my DMM to the 12v and ground of it.
Green/white: connected to 12v ignition
Yellow/Blue: connected to ignition coil (other wire on coil is blue and goes to ign 12v)
black orange: connected to pin 36 of ms brown wire
is this correct on the ignitor and coil? is that a proper reading on ignitor?
thanks,
david
Green/white: connected to 12v ignition
Yellow/Blue: connected to ignition coil (other wire on coil is blue and goes to ign 12v)
black orange: connected to pin 36 of ms brown wire
is this correct on the ignitor and coil? is that a proper reading on ignitor?
thanks,
david
#5
Matt @ DIYautotune emailed me back and suggested i get a 400-600 ohm resistor and put it on the NE signal and 12v ign wire to get tach going. He was spot on. So now i have RPM reading on the Tuner Studio. I still have no spark though. The ignitor is reading 1.8v when key is on or cranking. I attached my DMM to the 12v and ground of it.
Green/white: connected to 12v ignition
Yellow/Blue: connected to ignition coil (other wire on coil is blue and goes to ign 12v)
black orange: connected to pin 36 of ms brown wire
is this correct on the ignitor and coil? is that a proper reading on ignitor?
Green/white: connected to 12v ignition
Yellow/Blue: connected to ignition coil (other wire on coil is blue and goes to ign 12v)
black orange: connected to pin 36 of ms brown wire
is this correct on the ignitor and coil? is that a proper reading on ignitor?
#6
Matt @ DIYautotune emailed me back and suggested i get a 400-600 ohm resistor and put it on the NE signal and 12v ign wire to get tach going. He was spot on. So now i have RPM reading on the Tuner Studio. I still have no spark though. The ignitor is reading 1.8v when key is on or cranking. I attached my DMM to the 12v and ground of it.
Green/white: connected to 12v ignition
Yellow/Blue: connected to ignition coil (other wire on coil is blue and goes to ign 12v)
black orange: connected to pin 36 of ms brown wire
is this correct on the ignitor and coil? is that a proper reading on ignitor?
Green/white: connected to 12v ignition
Yellow/Blue: connected to ignition coil (other wire on coil is blue and goes to ign 12v)
black orange: connected to pin 36 of ms brown wire
is this correct on the ignitor and coil? is that a proper reading on ignitor?
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