Ultimate Noob 1st Post!!!
#182
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iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 20,884
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Ultimate Noob 1st Post!!!
Harry, this isn't the thread where noobs should post. I know there may be a translation barrier but this is a joke thread. You should begin a new thread for your own introduction.
#193
Hello all,
Planning to buy a 96 Miata NA from Norway where im from. it got 235 000 km(146022miles) on it. is it dumb to start turboing/tune a car with such a milage?
This is my first post, im new to working on miatas as i used to drive a e46 bmw Thanks for all tips and respons
-Toby/Tobben
Planning to buy a 96 Miata NA from Norway where im from. it got 235 000 km(146022miles) on it. is it dumb to start turboing/tune a car with such a milage?
This is my first post, im new to working on miatas as i used to drive a e46 bmw Thanks for all tips and respons
-Toby/Tobben
#194
Intro
Hi everyone my name is Chris. I'm looking at buying a 1999 Miata with a 1.8 l 5 speed. The head gasket is blown but has not been overheated. The game plan is to have the block decked and machine the head. I wanna do a boost build with this and it will be my first. I plan on doing the block and head first and doing a gasket and timing set will I have it ripped open. Then I wanna get my tuning skills down while it's na. How much am I looking at for rods and pistons. Im on a budget but I wanna build it right and have it be bullet proof reliable. I plan on running e85 as fuel. What are all the supporting mods I'll need to run like 20+ lbs of boost. I've read a little about the cooling system changes and oil coolers. Is there anything else. Water meth is also something I wanna throw in. And eventually a 100 shot of nos. Please guide me 🤓.
#196
Hi everyone my name is Chris. I'm looking at buying a 1999 Miata with a 1.8 l 5 speed. The head gasket is blown but has not been overheated. The game plan is to have the block decked and machine the head. I wanna do a boost build with this and it will be my first. I plan on doing the block and head first and doing a gasket and timing set will I have it ripped open. Then I wanna get my tuning skills down while it's na. How much am I looking at for rods and pistons. Im on a budget but I wanna build it right and have it be bullet proof reliable. I plan on running e85 as fuel. What are all the supporting mods I'll need to run like 20+ lbs of boost. I've read a little about the cooling system changes and oil coolers. Is there anything else. Water meth is also something I wanna throw in. And eventually a 100 shot of nos. Please guide me 🤓.
It sounds like you're off to a good start. Maybe just put it back together with a new head gasket and see how you like it first. Once you've done a few hundred hours of reading on here you'll be ready to ask some more questions Also, I made the same mistake as you and posted in this thread but it's like a noob trap. I suggest you lurk for a bit and get to know who the qualified people are and see how they do Miatas. Cheers
#197
Hi everyone my name is Chris. I'm looking at buying a 1999 Miata with a 1.8 l 5 speed. The head gasket is blown but has not been overheated. The game plan is to have the block decked and machine the head. I wanna do a boost build with this and it will be my first. I plan on doing the block and head first and doing a gasket and timing set will I have it ripped open. Then I wanna get my tuning skills down while it's na. How much am I looking at for rods and pistons. Im on a budget but I wanna build it right and have it be bullet proof reliable. I plan on running e85 as fuel. What are all the supporting mods I'll need to run like 20+ lbs of boost. I've read a little about the cooling system changes and oil coolers. Is there anything else. Water meth is also something I wanna throw in. And eventually a 100 shot of nos. Please guide me .
Dont bother with nitrous, it is dumb. With a small turbo TSE EFR 6258 kit you can easily hit 300whp which is more than enough to be a deadly handful when the boost comes on.
Unless you have hookups, and lots of skills (which no offense it doesn't sound like you are skilled) it will be cheapest in the long run to go with a complete built longblock from Trackspeed Engineering. They run 4500 dollars, and are rated at sustained 500whp. You dont even have to think about anything, just save up, get it, install it, and follow Andrews break in procedures exactly.
Also, there is a saying, i dont know who first said it, but... reliable, cheap, fast, pick two. You can have fast and reliable, which is expensive (10 thousand dollars in engine mods alone gets you 300whp reliably) fast and cheap (you can get 230whp for maybe 3000 if you are lucky, but it isn't reliable enough for the track, or driving it hard) or reliable and cheap (180ish for 3000 and that is still fun on stock engine)
Boost pressure doesn't really mean much. You can have a small turbo, with a lot of intake and exhaust restrictions at 14psi and make 250whp, or a large turbo with low restrictions at 14psi making 400whp. Psi is literally just pressure, thats what the "P" in psi stands for. Dont think in terms of psi, think in terms of what power level you want, then plan from there.
If you want reliability with any turbo setup, you'll need a coolant reroute and supermiata radiator, or the trackspeed 600 dollar radiator to not overheat. Even then, there are people only at 300whp that have to vent their hoods, build custom duct work, and still have overheating issues. Turbos waste around 100% of the engines power as heat, or something like that.
There are so many aspects of your post that SCREAM uneducated, unintelligent, and under researched on a broad automotive and physics scale. I'm not very educated, smart, or researched, but many people on this site will agree with me and say "learn first, stop being dumb, dont post on the forum, and come back when you learn how to type and use adequate sentence structure"