My rusty AutoX toy
#1
My rusty AutoX toy
Hey everyone,
I purchased a white 1991 Miata back in February with 142,000 miles for $150.
All it needed was a new battery and a 80amp fuse to get it running.
Since then I have been competing in autocross events with it, in the Maryland area.
I inevitable ran into Soviet at a couple of these events.
This conjured up some quite expensive ideas.
I plan to have the car turbo'ed by the spring of 2013. I plan to run with the 1.6, I may do internals on it, unless I am talked out of it. I want to run megasquirt, and I feel that this needs to be my first step toward awesomeness.
I will be starting a build thread in the near future.
Oh yeah here is a picture of the Bucket
Thanks For Looking
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
I purchased a white 1991 Miata back in February with 142,000 miles for $150.
All it needed was a new battery and a 80amp fuse to get it running.
Since then I have been competing in autocross events with it, in the Maryland area.
I inevitable ran into Soviet at a couple of these events.
This conjured up some quite expensive ideas.
I plan to have the car turbo'ed by the spring of 2013. I plan to run with the 1.6, I may do internals on it, unless I am talked out of it. I want to run megasquirt, and I feel that this needs to be my first step toward awesomeness.
I will be starting a build thread in the near future.
Oh yeah here is a picture of the Bucket
Thanks For Looking
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
#16
Boost Czar
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The "x" means expander card, which is just a $90 module with pre-built circuits on it. But I agree, get the expander.
I can build you a MS3x PNP for exactly 4.6 times what you paid for your car.
I can build you a MS3x PNP for exactly 4.6 times what you paid for your car.
Last edited by Braineack; 08-27-2012 at 09:58 AM.
#20
It really depends on how you go around your 1.8 swap. you can do it the lame, peon way and just use all 1.6 wiring harness, sensors, 1.6 ingiton and throttle body. Doing it this way is easy but... lame - No sequential unless you rewire your harness, poor timing accuracy, lame ingitor, tach signal comes from coils, etc etc etc.
Or, you can do it the right way and use a crank sensor, NB throttle body and NB knock sensor (or any other knock sensor). It's more involved but is superior.
Either way, all you would need to do is change configuration in tuner studio and wiring. You don't need to mod the MS3 in any way or form (other than add-on knock board).
Or, you can do it the right way and use a crank sensor, NB throttle body and NB knock sensor (or any other knock sensor). It's more involved but is superior.
Either way, all you would need to do is change configuration in tuner studio and wiring. You don't need to mod the MS3 in any way or form (other than add-on knock board).