Hi all.

Ive been a long time lurker while I built and rebuilt my NA.

The short of the long about my car is; if I can make it myself I will:

1994 NA
Eagle H-Beam rods
Moroso pistons
Balanced rotating assembly
VS-855 valve springs
Light port job (cleaned up casting and unshrouded valves)
Stock flywheel lightened to 15lb via removal of inertia flange
750cc EV14 injectors
DIYPNP with sequential injection
OBX dual feed fuel rail (love it, gread build quality)
Honda B18 intake manifold
Coldside Coolant rerout
DIY absurdflow style 4 into 1 manifold
SR20 T25 (for the next few months; had the turbo laying around so on it went) running 15psi.
DIY 3" down pipe
DIY 3" full exhaust with Magnaflow MF straight through muffler
DIY ebay 2.5 intercooler piping fully tig welded with ebay intercooler
AGX KYB with stock springs (Tien Flex Zs coming up soon)
Racing beat sway bars
DIY shock tower brace





Engine ready to go into the car.





Right after it got back in the car.

 

nice. did you dremel the b18 mani ports?

 

I am fortunate to have a cnc mill and tig welder at home so I was able to machine a miata flange, cut off the honda flange, and weld on the miata flange. I also welded on a tab to attach the stock intake support to help prevent the welds from cracking.








CNC'd flange






CNC'd throttle cable mount and block off plate.

I'm using the miata tb for now but will be switching to a honda one sooner then later. I was doing a lot of things at once and didn't want to deal with wiring in the honda tps and iac at the time.

 

Ughhh. I want a CNC mill so bad. I like the build.

 

Thanks for joining, 4gordeev!

 

Very nice work on the intake manifold.

 

Some other stuff I made for this car:





Absurdflow copy low mount manifold. It is mild steel to help with cracking and ceramic coated inside and out.






My downpipe. 3in right out of the turbo.






Full 3" stainless exhaust.







Intercooler piping.

 

Power steering outlet fitting. Now it avoids the turbo.



Coolant rerout. The thermostat is pretty far from the head. I cut the float pin out in the tstat and enlarged the hole to 3/16". No issues with temperature spikes. Temperatures stay around 180* whether im crusing or beating the ship out of it. Tstat access is a snap. I also added a 1/8" npt plug at the top of the tstat housing for bleading purposes.