I need help learning about turbos
#2
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If you are still on stock ecu with nothing controlling your fuel, you will go boom. Where to start is everything on this site. Really, there is no how you find out what is on your car tutorial or walk through. You need to read read and read here. No one is going to hold your hand and give you cliff notes on your car. But post some pictures and we may be able to help get you started.
#8
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Unless you want to tune it yourself, pay some random guy to street tune it, or pay a shop to dyno tune it.
Step 1 is figure out what parts are on your system
Turbo, injectors, engine management... And so on. There is only so much people can do over the internet because we know even less about this car than you.
Step 1 is figure out what parts are on your system
Turbo, injectors, engine management... And so on. There is only so much people can do over the internet because we know even less about this car than you.
#13
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The Greddy kit comes with a Vortech FMU (rising rate fuel pressure regulator) that is actually decently well tuned for 5-8 psi. As long as that is installed and you are running 5 psi wastegate pressure you are fine.
That turbo doesn't make power until 4k rpm and it is probably not slower below that than a stock car, it just feels that way because you are used to the rush of power that comes on when the boost hits.
Don't modify anything from where it is out of the box unless you have a VERY good idea what you are doing. You will need a higher pressure fuel pump, a timing retard device and a really, really good clutch to go any farther and above 8-9 psi you will need a replacement computer. Above 10 psi with the FMU you will start locking up the injectors from the high fuel pressure anyway, so don't do that.
My advice is to leave it alone and enjoy it until you learn a lot about turbo miatas and turbo systems in general, or find a VERY competent friend/shop that has done turbo work on a miata before.
Source:
Former 1.6L Greddy Miata owner.
That turbo doesn't make power until 4k rpm and it is probably not slower below that than a stock car, it just feels that way because you are used to the rush of power that comes on when the boost hits.
Don't modify anything from where it is out of the box unless you have a VERY good idea what you are doing. You will need a higher pressure fuel pump, a timing retard device and a really, really good clutch to go any farther and above 8-9 psi you will need a replacement computer. Above 10 psi with the FMU you will start locking up the injectors from the high fuel pressure anyway, so don't do that.
My advice is to leave it alone and enjoy it until you learn a lot about turbo miatas and turbo systems in general, or find a VERY competent friend/shop that has done turbo work on a miata before.
Source:
Former 1.6L Greddy Miata owner.
#14
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I owned two other miatas before this (stock and they were 1.8L) and my brother currently has a 1.8L as well. I'm more than positive that the speed before it is much slower than stock, I can tell something isn't working efficiently (the acceleration is terribly terribly slow). I'm not sure if my mpg would be another indicator of that or not but I measured it at 21mpg, I don't know if it should increase or decrease with a turbo kit.
On a side note, the only other thing that may be wrong or could be a factor in all of this besides a leak is my gas pedal, it's really tough to press down but still responsive and it's not sticking per se.
On a side note, the only other thing that may be wrong or could be a factor in all of this besides a leak is my gas pedal, it's really tough to press down but still responsive and it's not sticking per se.
#15
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I owned two other miatas before this (stock and they were 1.8L) and my brother currently has a 1.8L as well. I'm more than positive that the speed before it is much slower than stock, I can tell something isn't working efficiently (the acceleration is terribly terribly slow). I'm not sure if my mpg would be another indicator of that or not but I measured it at 21mpg, I don't know if it should increase or decrease with a turbo kit.
On a side note, the only other thing that may be wrong or could be a factor in all of this besides a leak is my gas pedal, it's really tough to press down but still responsive and it's not sticking per se.
On a side note, the only other thing that may be wrong or could be a factor in all of this besides a leak is my gas pedal, it's really tough to press down but still responsive and it's not sticking per se.
All forms of diagnostics are useless until you get a way to measure what the engine is doing.
#17
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2601/overview/
Wideband, something like this (I recommend this one, it is excellent):
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/avm-30-4100/overview/
There should be adequate instructions on here if you search for info.
#19
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You should be fairly safe at 5 psi regardless as long as there aren't any underlying maintenance issues with the car. Once you have a wideband and boost gauge you can get a handle on what is going on.