Hullo, Newbie from Illinois
#1
Hullo, Newbie from Illinois
Hi
20 years old. Bought my '96 three weeks ago from a private seller. It has a little over 89k miles on it, black with tan top, pretty much stock on borbet 14" wheels. 5-speed & clean, it is my first miata but I've owned a '92 civic hatchback & a '91 240sx prior to this car. I'm only 20 and from what I've read, I have a pretty good idea of what to do. Miata.net & CR both seem to be against my idea of making a quick straight line car. I'm getting my rokkor coilovers within the month, but here's my idea for my powertrain:
@240-250 whp:
T28 with internal wastegate
550cc injectors
2.25" downpipe
3" exhaust
BeGi manifold
ebay intercooler & piping
Megasquirt
and about 14 psi.
walbro 255 Fuel pump
stage 2 clutch
I'd appreciate all your advice, comments and constructive criticism
20 years old. Bought my '96 three weeks ago from a private seller. It has a little over 89k miles on it, black with tan top, pretty much stock on borbet 14" wheels. 5-speed & clean, it is my first miata but I've owned a '92 civic hatchback & a '91 240sx prior to this car. I'm only 20 and from what I've read, I have a pretty good idea of what to do. Miata.net & CR both seem to be against my idea of making a quick straight line car. I'm getting my rokkor coilovers within the month, but here's my idea for my powertrain:
@240-250 whp:
T28 with internal wastegate
550cc injectors
2.25" downpipe
3" exhaust
BeGi manifold
ebay intercooler & piping
Megasquirt
and about 14 psi.
walbro 255 Fuel pump
stage 2 clutch
I'd appreciate all your advice, comments and constructive criticism
#6
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There isn't much point running a 3 inch exhaust with a 2.25 inch downpipe. Use a 3 inch downpipe and lose the restriction.
I'm not familiar with the Rokkor brand. How did you come to chose them?
I'm not familiar with the Rokkor brand. How did you come to chose them?
#7
Rokkors are the new Raceland. According to CR, they're the best bang for the buck full coils @ around 360 for a new shipped set. A lot of people in the Chicago area like them on their miatas, telling me that they hold up fine and are able to go low enough for daily driving so I don't think they would hurt if I don't plan on autocrossing/roadracing with the car anyways.
#9
Totally not the style I'm looking for, although yes, I'm familiar with these fools running hellaflush on their daily drivers, especially in Chicago's shitty roads. I've learned from all that the hard way with the 240. After that car, I value frame rails more than anything. I'll most likely be at least a finger gap between tire and fender. BF Goodrich Drag Radials... of course not stretched -_-" wheel offset at just the right amount to be flush with the rest of the car, not overdone and requiring crazy-*** camber.
#11
Is you car a Torsen or open dif?
Other supporting mods should include a coolant upgrade. A Mishimoto radiator (stock fans fine) and a DIY coolant reroute is the cheapest way to ensure you have all the overhead you can want.
New fuel filter.
There's no limit where this happens... depends on setup, but again, you want 250whp now... who knows where it stops. A DIY COP's setup is cheap and will give you the spark you want for big fueling needs. Running a big spark gap on Toyota COP's is all the rage for preventing blowout.
What is your current budget?
#12
Looks good as long as the motor is healthy. A GT2560 should do it, but if you can sacrifice a coulpe-hundred RPM of spool, a GT2860 .64 would give you the overhead to reach for 300whp somewhere down the road. As mentioned, research a bigger downpipe.
Is you car a Torsen or open dif?
Other supporting mods should include a coolant upgrade. A Mishimoto radiator (stock fans fine) and a DIY coolant reroute is the cheapest way to ensure you have all the overhead you can want.
New fuel filter.
There's no limit where this happens... depends on setup, but again, you want 250whp now... who knows where it stops. A DIY COP's setup is cheap and will give you the spark you want for big fueling needs. Running a big spark gap on Toyota COP's is all the rage for preventing blowout.
What is your current budget?
Is you car a Torsen or open dif?
Other supporting mods should include a coolant upgrade. A Mishimoto radiator (stock fans fine) and a DIY coolant reroute is the cheapest way to ensure you have all the overhead you can want.
New fuel filter.
There's no limit where this happens... depends on setup, but again, you want 250whp now... who knows where it stops. A DIY COP's setup is cheap and will give you the spark you want for big fueling needs. Running a big spark gap on Toyota COP's is all the rage for preventing blowout.
What is your current budget?
thanks on the tips, I appreciate it. I'll look into the DIY coolant reroute & COPS, I was just in the middle of reading about WI, I'm pretty unfamiliar with it.
I've replaced a fuel filter on my 240 before I let it go, an Autozone replacement is ok for this right?
Also I was considering a Godspeed turbo.. Should I go for the T25 or the T28?
I'm also unsure about whether the ride has Torsen or not. Will be sure to make the call to Mazda, give them my VIN and find out asap.
#13
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I would hold off on buying anything power related until the supporting modifications and upgrades are dealt with or your car will be broken often. Stock clutches are weak and should be upgraded before any power mods. They aren't hard to smoke at stock power levels.
As Samnavy was alluding, a stock radiator is marginal at stock power levels in my climate. Since you are considering doubling stock power, perhaps a Mishimoto radiator would be a wise investment for you.
A MegaSquirt and a wideband are smart to install before adding the turbo to the mix so that you can get familiar with it and establish a good base tune. This usually means acquiring your injectors at this stage as well. Developing your tuning skills before you add the perils of positive pressure is highly recommended by the veterans of the forum. Plus, you will need to work to set your idle so it doesn't stall at every stoplight before you progress to blowing up engines. This is an involved process and it doesn't start with "which turboezz should I buy?" You will have plenty of time to worry about that when you have had more time to learn and develop some understanding about what these cars need to make power reliably.
As Samnavy was alluding, a stock radiator is marginal at stock power levels in my climate. Since you are considering doubling stock power, perhaps a Mishimoto radiator would be a wise investment for you.
A MegaSquirt and a wideband are smart to install before adding the turbo to the mix so that you can get familiar with it and establish a good base tune. This usually means acquiring your injectors at this stage as well. Developing your tuning skills before you add the perils of positive pressure is highly recommended by the veterans of the forum. Plus, you will need to work to set your idle so it doesn't stall at every stoplight before you progress to blowing up engines. This is an involved process and it doesn't start with "which turboezz should I buy?" You will have plenty of time to worry about that when you have had more time to learn and develop some understanding about what these cars need to make power reliably.
#14
You can pick up SR20det T25's for $150 if you keep your eyes open, and GT2554r's have dropped considerably in price as the churbos have started to come on strong in the market... but you'd need to drop your power goals down to the low 210-220whp range.
The T28 for 250whp should be an easy bet to get you 250whp at around 15-16psi. A big exhaust will help, and an adjustable cam-gear on the exhaust side is cheap for a few ponies and an extra tuning variable.
And I don't see a blow-off valve on your build-list... don't forget one.
#15
@sixshooter:
thanks for the tip, I'll be sure to go for the stage 2 clutch, mishimoto radiator, MS & injectors first prior to piecing the turbo together.
@samnavy:
I suppose 220 whp isn't that bad. I'll consider maxing @ 220 on a t25, especially if I could snag one at $150.. thanks for the BoV reminder.
-- just called mazda. turns out the only way my ride would've come with the torsen was if it was an "R" package, which it isn't :(
thanks for the tip, I'll be sure to go for the stage 2 clutch, mishimoto radiator, MS & injectors first prior to piecing the turbo together.
@samnavy:
I suppose 220 whp isn't that bad. I'll consider maxing @ 220 on a t25, especially if I could snag one at $150.. thanks for the BoV reminder.
-- just called mazda. turns out the only way my ride would've come with the torsen was if it was an "R" package, which it isn't :(