Hi nube & HELP NEEDED!!- 1.6 over heating & oil filler blow by smoke
#1
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Just joined after researching web as I got to Phoenix Az yesterday to pick up a 1.6 turbo in Austin Healey after 1 yr in storage. 2 problems not there when driven-purchased-stored. 1st is overheat 215-230 and 2nd is exhaust smoke after pedal lift before boost and same smoke from oil filler cap when removed. Only came to get car on road and drive out of here so in hotel with limited tools. I need simple fix on o/h (no bypass is installed) as I see many suggestions on line. I have larger rad w/twin fans which kick in @170. possibly removing tstat, and bypass heater?? or maybe local parts stuff to bulid quick bypass?? Also smoke came from turbo on hard rpm spool up- drain line seems ok as it is high in pan- someone suggested oil line restricter, another said excessive crank pressure?? Have small k/n breather opposite side of filler- no catch can. ugg hope not rings failure. several miles to go... again great site THKS!
#2
Boost Czar
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After reading your post it's hard to really follow what your saying but im going to attempt to try to help you solve your problems. First what you should try to figure out is your overheating issues. This is a big one since if you overheat you won't have an engine to continue boosting. I have no idea what you are saying when you mention needing a simple fix for "on o/h." This could be some secret language that I don't know how to speak, so you must put it in lament terms for us. But what I think you're getting at is you need something to be able to drive it home. Removing the thermostat will help if the issue is a stuck one. Jumping the fans on will help to constantly cooling the rad. But I think your best bet will be keeping the heater at full blast. Since the heater isn't bypasses when you run the heater it helps remove the heat from the coolant and dump it into the cabin, where you can get all toasty warm in 100*F heat. Once you figure out the coolant, then you can start to worry about the smoke. It's possible it could be as simple as needing a restrictor, but what sort of turbo is it? It could be bad rings, bad valve seals, it could be anything at this point, but I'd maybe stop boosting on an overheating oil burning motor and maybe try to get it home at this point where you can learn about paragraphs and boosted miatas and start fixing your problems...Welcome to the site KTHNXBYE!
#4
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After reading your post it's hard to really follow what your saying but im going to attempt to try to help you solve your problems. First what you should try to figure out is your overheating issues. This is a big one since if you overheat you won't have an engine to continue boosting. I have no idea what you are saying when you mention needing a simple fix for "on o/h." This could be some secret language that I don't know how to speak, so you must put it in lament terms for us. But what I think you're getting at is you need something to be able to drive it home. Removing the thermostat will help if the issue is a stuck one. Jumping the fans on will help to constantly cooling the rad. But I think your best bet will be keeping the heater at full blast. Since the heater isn't bypasses when you run the heater it helps remove the heat from the coolant and dump it into the cabin, where you can get all toasty warm in 100*F heat. Once you figure out the coolant, then you can start to worry about the smoke. It's possible it could be as simple as needing a restrictor, but what sort of turbo is it? It could be bad rings, bad valve seals, it could be anything at this point, but I'd maybe stop boosting on an overheating oil burning motor and maybe try to get it home at this point where you can learn about paragraphs and boosted miatas and start fixing your problems...Welcome to the site KTHNXBYE!
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#5
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I also drove through a small tornado on that trip that snapped the 3 feet wide Scarface painting in half that was tied to the roof
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#6
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If you're getting smoke from the oil filler cap location then it's likely you've got lots of blowby at the piston rings. How are your crankcase vents routed from either side of your valve cover? What color is said smoke?
Stay low RPM to reduce the volume of oil that will travel through your turbocharger.
Stay low RPM to reduce the volume of oil that will travel through your turbocharger.
#7
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Appreciate the feed back on both using the heater and the blowby. Smoke is light blue, the only valve cover vent is a small 1" K/N type with 3/8" hole where the PVC goes.
I may stay an extra few days and look at doing the bypass routing. However seems like several kits as well as home remedies to consider based on the research from this site.
Also the car builder located a .060 restrictor and says he will stop by to install and see if this helps.
This my 1st 1.6 and turbo so between the ECU,turbo and being short on time this quick buy auction hybrid, like my other projects, is taking time to sort out. I'm off back to the garage to check on some of the issues.
Thks!
I may stay an extra few days and look at doing the bypass routing. However seems like several kits as well as home remedies to consider based on the research from this site.
Also the car builder located a .060 restrictor and says he will stop by to install and see if this helps.
This my 1st 1.6 and turbo so between the ECU,turbo and being short on time this quick buy auction hybrid, like my other projects, is taking time to sort out. I'm off back to the garage to check on some of the issues.
Thks!
#9
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A re-route is a darn good idea, but for now I second (third?) what others have said. I had a 'OH' problem sometime ago, and running the heater was the diff between getting home and blowing a head gasket.
With no T-Stat and the fans/heater on, you will probably never get over 200.
You might also consider disconnecting the wastegate actuator from the wastegate itself such that it's just free to move. That will do a lot of to keep the car out of boost untill you get it home. Thats been covered in here a few times recently IIRC.
With no T-Stat and the fans/heater on, you will probably never get over 200.
You might also consider disconnecting the wastegate actuator from the wastegate itself such that it's just free to move. That will do a lot of to keep the car out of boost untill you get it home. Thats been covered in here a few times recently IIRC.
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