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Probably not, unless I go to a larger tire. Emilio in his 15x10/15x11 thread said 15x10 on NB are sort of PnP ish and they sort of are. Fenders will need rolling but cutting may be avoidable. Depends how low you go.
Functionally. Nobody wants to scrape on the lines that divide the lanes. lmao.
Static ride height is irrelevant if you actually drive the car.
Mine just makes appearances at car meets and collects instagram attention. Soon my car will be so low that it'll become mining equipment. Isn't that what it's all about?
You misunderstood. Static ride height is unrelated to the amount of rubbing you will have. If you actually drive the car.
My understanding of "static" is a non-adjustable setup, or one that is not readily adjustable. Looking at it from a situational standpoint, I would guess you'd be both correct and incorrect depending on how someone has their car set up to begin with. I'm not following how they aren't related, seeing as how your ride height and your car's parts and your specific modifications/fabrications as a whole package are going to determine whether or not you're scraping and/or rubbing. Correct?
When you have adjustable coilovers your ride height has no bearing on whether or not it will rub. Because it will bottom out on the bumpstops no matter what.
When you have adjustable coilovers your ride height has no bearing on whether or not it will rub. Because it will bottom out on the bumpstops no matter what.
Basic physics.
That's why I brought up the situational conditions, I can think of 4 people off the top of my head that had rubbing issues on their cars because of it being lowered (yes, with adjustable coilovers). Using a Mazdaspeed6 as the example, but an example nonetheless.
The key to what Aidan says is "if you actually drive the car."
If it's going to rub under compression at some point, it's always going to rub under compression at that point. Where it starts (the "static ride height" he refers to) has no bearing on this.
Your friends didn't experience rubbing before lowering because, before lowering, they weren't driving the car hard enough to compress the suspension enough for it to rub.
OK, let me rephrase. With XIDA 700/400s, I get MINIMAL rubbing under compression with my fenders rolled and pulled, and ride height set to 4.25 and 4.5" front and rear, with a 15x10 and 245 Maxxis tire. So, safe to say, someone else with XIDA 700/400s, or a similar setup, should be able to achieve the same results.
The key to what Aidan says is "if you actually drive the car."
If it's going to rub under compression at some point, it's always going to rub under compression at that point. Where it starts (the "static ride height" he refers to) has no bearing on this.
Your friends didn't experience rubbing before lowering because, before lowering, they weren't driving the car hard enough to compress the suspension enough for it to rub.
Had my last event of the season yesterday and besides a mystery flashing CEL (which I can't check via OBD because of megasquirt) everything went well and I hit my 1:35 goal around NJMP Thunderbolt, adding to my sloppy 1:19 on Lightning. Head shield helped keep the brakes working better, but I think I metled the sleeve around my throttle cable because it feels really sticky after sitting for a few minutes. The cable also feels super soft and bendy behind the downpipe right where it enters the firewall, not tight like the rest of the cable. It was my second time ever on this track, and the last time I was on any track was 5 months ago, so I wanted to take it easy and not have any accidents last day of the year
Gooey RC-1 Goodness after 1 15 minute session with 90* temps outside
And a few shots before the event began
This season has had it's ups and downs I must say. After my first event on Easter, I was definitely hooked. I managed to make another one a month after that, and that was it for me. Since the RC-1 are my only tires, I wasn't about to go out speeding in the rain, and to be honest the more events I missed and heard about the accidents, the more I did not want to risk crashing my car, or having someone hit me when they lost control. Maybe that's just a consequence of doing events with Track Night in America, no instructors mean that stupid people can be stupid on the track.
I ran into one of these idiots yesterday, some guy in a newer Audi S4 who thought he was hot **** running in Intermediate class. Would literally be ON my *** in every corner, which I was not comfortable with. Then when I started taking wider lines to try and connect close corners, as I was lining up for the next turn, this ******* was on the inside again just a few feet behind me because he would take the turns super tight because he couldn't drive. Once I pointed him by, I watched him hang on the *** of the guy who was in front of me exactly the same way. I was so pissed when I got in from my second session but to avoid getting ejected for wanting to bash his face in for multiple instances during the heat, I had the organizer talk to him. I guess he wanted to prove himself, so he decided to do the last heat in advanced, where he was passed over and over again and everyone I know who ran said he couldn't drive for ****. It's these kind of people who make me think it's worth it to pay double to have an instructor in the car, and be around people who generally care more about their own well being and of those around them.
Goals for this winter are the supermiata front bumper, brake ducts which I already have purchased, and some gauges (oil pressure, oil temp, water temp) though I'm not sure if I want to pillar mount them or do it near the radio. Also getting a much needed Foamectomied seat next week!
So riddle me this, if I was to look in Tunerstudio, where would I find the menu or screen where I could see what the "high" parameters is for water temp before the CEL comes on. I looked around before and did not have any luck finding it.
<constant digits="0" name="overheating_mil_on_temp" units="°C">104.9895</constant>Would that be it? That translates to 221. According to reading those same scripts, my fan kicks on at 196 and kicks off at 204. I don't want to say with certainty, but 221 coolant temp (not for sustained periods) is not THAT bad, don't things usually get hairy around 240?
Also found this, but it translates to 256f oil temps, and I doubt that's happening with a cooler on there as well.<constant digits="0" name"oil_temp_cel" units="°C">124.9875</constant>
That's from the "html" format of my tune, I uploaded it to google drive but when I click on it I just get a bunch of those codes. I just searched for "temp" and kept scrolling through till I found relevant stuff
I followed the menus you gave me but I don't see those options even listed under advanced. Might have an old software.
03-15-2016, 10:35 PM
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