How-To: Electric Power Steering NA/NB
08-11-2022 | 09:52 AM
#1
How-To: Electric Power Steering NA/NB
hey-yo...
haven't done a how to in for ever so bear weith me. most pics are self explanatory.
you'll need:
Electric Steering Column from any of the following cars
your own steering column or a donor if you ever want to go back.
basically, you'll want to match the lenght of the OEM column but this is also a good chance to shorten the shaft if desired.
make the cut of the OEM colum right after the bracket that holds it to the dash board frame.
it helps to remove the dashboard and separate the dashboard bars from the dashboard. but i'm sure it cna be done with everyting mounted.
for matching the angle at which you want the motor, present the columnt as pictured to the loctaion where it will be mounted. the angle will have to clear the AC box so keep that in mind.
you'll want to use the shaft that came with your electric steering although the "key lock feature" may not match, i dind't care because i completely eliminated that from my steering column. however, if you must keep the lock you'll have to figure out where to cut and do a few more welds.
i wanted to do the leats amount of welds since making sure eveyrhting is concentric is hard as heck.
i used painted blue tape rolled around the electric sterring shaft to senter it as much as possible in the OEM tube. it will help with concentricity.
next up is cutting the base and removing the bushing. it is pressed in and will make it for an easy instal
there are needle bearings and all of this will need to be greased.
you'll need to use this part of the electric and match it to your output of the OEM.
this part will be on the far left end of the picture below.
the top part was cut off from my OEM middle shaft and welded to the previously cut splined juntion.
this is basically what you looking for.
don't weld with the rubber, or it will melt (duh)
this part connects the steering column to the shaft that goes out to the engine bay.
this is the final install.
you cna tak the welds and mov ethem aorund until everything fits.
and everyhting WILL fit just fine.
personal choice: i went aghead and took apart the auto steering rack, welded it as per FM's how to, depowered it, cut off all the nipples, welded them shut, sanded and smoothed them out.
top view of the electric rack
i got lucky with my angle, to be honest, i work usually off the seat off my pants! but please, tripple check the angle.
i had no AC at this point and i got super lucky because once i installed the AC box in that location i was clearing it by 1/8th of an inch!
took parts apart.
sand blastedm, welded shut the holes. and got them ready for powender coating.
TIP: if you are going to powdercoat, becareful: i toasted the bearing on the top and melted a seal inside the steering rack!
be warned, this is not very PowderCoat Friendly! just hit it with a rattle can and you'll be fine.
if sand blasting, clean the bearing very good as sand gets traped in it.
i'm a dumb *** and did the powdercoat, alhtough it same out AWESOME, it was sitll dumb as ****.
final shaft powdercoated.
assembled and installed the steering rack
zinc plated all bolts and the clamps holding the steering rack.
make sure you cut off the power lead and get yourself a matching 12 AWG or 10AWG cable, stranded copper, automotive wire. this **** will melt your tinnie winnie wires if you don't!@
fully assembled with a quick release
it works awesome, if i ever do i will provide a video.
haven't done a how to in for ever so bear weith me. most pics are self explanatory.
you'll need:
Electric Steering Column from any of the following cars
- Saturn Vue - from 2002 to 2007
- Chevrolet Equinox - from 2005 to 2007
- Pontiac Torrent - from 2005 to 2007
- Saturn Ion - from 2003 to 2006 - only in steering column with metal ECU case.
your own steering column or a donor if you ever want to go back.
basically, you'll want to match the lenght of the OEM column but this is also a good chance to shorten the shaft if desired.
make the cut of the OEM colum right after the bracket that holds it to the dash board frame.
it helps to remove the dashboard and separate the dashboard bars from the dashboard. but i'm sure it cna be done with everyting mounted.
for matching the angle at which you want the motor, present the columnt as pictured to the loctaion where it will be mounted. the angle will have to clear the AC box so keep that in mind.
you'll want to use the shaft that came with your electric steering although the "key lock feature" may not match, i dind't care because i completely eliminated that from my steering column. however, if you must keep the lock you'll have to figure out where to cut and do a few more welds.
i wanted to do the leats amount of welds since making sure eveyrhting is concentric is hard as heck.
i used painted blue tape rolled around the electric sterring shaft to senter it as much as possible in the OEM tube. it will help with concentricity.
next up is cutting the base and removing the bushing. it is pressed in and will make it for an easy instal
there are needle bearings and all of this will need to be greased.
you'll need to use this part of the electric and match it to your output of the OEM.
this part will be on the far left end of the picture below.
the top part was cut off from my OEM middle shaft and welded to the previously cut splined juntion.
this is basically what you looking for.
don't weld with the rubber, or it will melt (duh)
this part connects the steering column to the shaft that goes out to the engine bay.
this is the final install.
you cna tak the welds and mov ethem aorund until everything fits.
and everyhting WILL fit just fine.
personal choice: i went aghead and took apart the auto steering rack, welded it as per FM's how to, depowered it, cut off all the nipples, welded them shut, sanded and smoothed them out.
top view of the electric rack
i got lucky with my angle, to be honest, i work usually off the seat off my pants! but please, tripple check the angle.
i had no AC at this point and i got super lucky because once i installed the AC box in that location i was clearing it by 1/8th of an inch!
took parts apart.
sand blastedm, welded shut the holes. and got them ready for powender coating.
TIP: if you are going to powdercoat, becareful: i toasted the bearing on the top and melted a seal inside the steering rack!
be warned, this is not very PowderCoat Friendly! just hit it with a rattle can and you'll be fine.
if sand blasting, clean the bearing very good as sand gets traped in it.
i'm a dumb *** and did the powdercoat, alhtough it same out AWESOME, it was sitll dumb as ****.
final shaft powdercoated.
assembled and installed the steering rack
zinc plated all bolts and the clamps holding the steering rack.
make sure you cut off the power lead and get yourself a matching 12 AWG or 10AWG cable, stranded copper, automotive wire. this **** will melt your tinnie winnie wires if you don't!@
fully assembled with a quick release
it works awesome, if i ever do i will provide a video.
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2
02-17-2024 | 04:13 PM
#3
That's cool, I didn't know this was even possible? A few years ago, power steering deletes were all the rage, as it gives more feedback, definitely makes you feel more in direct control of the machine, a bit less weight and complexity.
What is the benefit of doing this? I thought electric steering was generally undesirable for sports cars.
What is the benefit of doing this? I thought electric steering was generally undesirable for sports cars.
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