Should I just buy the Harbor Freight jack?
#1
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From: Outside Portland Maine
Should I just buy the Harbor Freight jack?
My jack is dead, I can't even get the miata high enough to get it off the casters I store it on for the winter.
I am torn between buying another low-pro aluminum jack that will actually fit (though with some difficulty) under the front, then using blocks and **** to lift my outback, or just buying the harbor freight 3-ton that will sort of fit under the miata, but should lift the outback.
With the 3-ton, how do you lift the car and then get jack stands on the pinch welds? It looks like it would only fit under far enough to lift on the pinch welds, which then makes it difficult to put jack stands there.
I am torn between buying another low-pro aluminum jack that will actually fit (though with some difficulty) under the front, then using blocks and **** to lift my outback, or just buying the harbor freight 3-ton that will sort of fit under the miata, but should lift the outback.
With the 3-ton, how do you lift the car and then get jack stands on the pinch welds? It looks like it would only fit under far enough to lift on the pinch welds, which then makes it difficult to put jack stands there.
#4
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From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
If the data on the website is to be believed, the 3 ton jack actually has a lower minimum saddle height than the aluminum one; 2-7/8" vs 3-1/2".
As to technique, I usually follow the instructions in the Mazda shop manual and jack the car from the front and rear, rather than from the sides.
(I've never understood why PacMan seems to do most of Mazda's service work, whereas Honda and Toyota both employ that kid from Pokemon to pose for their shop manuals.)
If your car is especially low, get some 6" x 1" x 8' pieces of lumber. Cut 'em down to about 2' lengths, and build a set of tiered ramps several inches thick at the max. Drive the car up onto these (all four wheels), and that'll give you plenty of jacking clearance.
As to technique, I usually follow the instructions in the Mazda shop manual and jack the car from the front and rear, rather than from the sides.
(I've never understood why PacMan seems to do most of Mazda's service work, whereas Honda and Toyota both employ that kid from Pokemon to pose for their shop manuals.)
If your car is especially low, get some 6" x 1" x 8' pieces of lumber. Cut 'em down to about 2' lengths, and build a set of tiered ramps several inches thick at the max. Drive the car up onto these (all four wheels), and that'll give you plenty of jacking clearance.
#10
A hockey puck with a slot cut into it works wonders...
#11
This is the jack you want. Bigger, heavier, bit more expensive, but it is the best jack I have ever used.
It has a lower starting height and lifts higher than the 3-Ton and has no trouble with the Miata, Minivan or Outback.
With no front lip (and slightly bending the bottom of the bumper) I could get to the front subframe and lift the Miata with the pinchwelds at 3.75"/4".
It has a lower starting height and lifts higher than the 3-Ton and has no trouble with the Miata, Minivan or Outback.
With no front lip (and slightly bending the bottom of the bumper) I could get to the front subframe and lift the Miata with the pinchwelds at 3.75"/4".
#12
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From: Outside Portland Maine
This is the jack you want. Bigger, heavier, bit more expensive, but it is the best jack I have ever used.
It has a lower starting height and lifts higher than the 3-Ton and has no trouble with the Miata, Minivan or Outback.
With no front lip (and slightly bending the bottom of the bumper) I could get to the front subframe and lift the Miata with the pinchwelds at 3.75"/4".
It has a lower starting height and lifts higher than the 3-Ton and has no trouble with the Miata, Minivan or Outback.
With no front lip (and slightly bending the bottom of the bumper) I could get to the front subframe and lift the Miata with the pinchwelds at 3.75"/4".
#16
Yeah that 2 ton is the **** you need. Reaches the front sub frame with ease but cant reach the diff if you have the cross brace there and already lifted the front of the car. That bad boy will lift the whole front end of an F250HD. Not one of the light weight trucks, the ones with a ******* iron 460 big block and dana50 in the front.
#18
Yeah that 2 ton is the **** you need. Reaches the front sub frame with ease but cant reach the diff if you have the cross brace there and already lifted the front of the car. That bad boy will lift the whole front end of an F250HD. Not one of the light weight trucks, the ones with a ******* iron 460 big block and dana50 in the front.
#19
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From: Outside Portland Maine
I bought the 3 ton. Is it normal for it to rise really quick, then when it actually starts lifting the car to slow WAY down? It lifts it fine, but it isn't what I would call "rapid lift" by any stretch.
I bled it per the instructions when I got it (cracked the fill screw, loosened the handle, and pumped it 5 or 6 times), and it's probably normal, it's just different than my last jack I guess. The last one only had one speed, and it was relatively quick I guess.
I bled it per the instructions when I got it (cracked the fill screw, loosened the handle, and pumped it 5 or 6 times), and it's probably normal, it's just different than my last jack I guess. The last one only had one speed, and it was relatively quick I guess.
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