RB25-DET or 1JZ-GTE?
#1
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RB25-DET or 1JZ-GTE?
So as yall know my car is going to be getting parted out. That should be happening sometime in the near future. I already have another DD, an 86 VW Golf. (I finally got all the kinks worked out with the exception of replacing the AC pump and having it recharged)
Now Im looking into buying either a RB25 or a 1JZ. If I get a RB its going to get swapped into a early 70s Datsun 240z. If I get a 1JZ it will get swapped into a FC RX-7. Im just looking to get your opinions on these two motors and these two cars. Now im dead seat on getting one of these motors and one of these cars. I just need to gather as much info and opinions to help me decided.
I have spent the last week researching the RB and reading everything I can about them and about swapping that engine into a 240z. Im about to start reading up more on the 1JZ and swapping it into a FC.
So what would you choose and why? Hopefully this thread wont go downhill!
Now Im looking into buying either a RB25 or a 1JZ. If I get a RB its going to get swapped into a early 70s Datsun 240z. If I get a 1JZ it will get swapped into a FC RX-7. Im just looking to get your opinions on these two motors and these two cars. Now im dead seat on getting one of these motors and one of these cars. I just need to gather as much info and opinions to help me decided.
I have spent the last week researching the RB and reading everything I can about them and about swapping that engine into a 240z. Im about to start reading up more on the 1JZ and swapping it into a FC.
So what would you choose and why? Hopefully this thread wont go downhill!
#5
I have never dealt with an rb25, but the general consensus is that they are crappy and watered down version of the rb26. That wouldn't stop me from trying one. 1jz is beast, and the 2jz more so. So given the options I would do a 1jz fc. BUT... It would be cooler to grab a late 80's to early 90's cressida and 1/2jz that. 4 doors and light. What a sleeper.
#6
I have never dealt with an rb25, but the general consensus is that they are crappy and watered down version of the rb26. That wouldn't stop me from trying one. 1jz is beast, and the 2jz more so. So given the options I would do a 1jz fc. BUT... It would be cooler to grab a late 80's to early 90's cressida and 1/2jz that. 4 doors and light. What a sleeper.
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Buy a FC and put a 1j in it. The RB is good but I honestly think the 1j is easier to make power and the fit in an FC easy. I like the RB but the 1j is deffinatly better and when you blow a rod out of it one day you can throw a 2j block under it and call it a day. You end up with an awesome 1.5jz **** is sick.
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From what Im reading the 1J is just as strong as a 2J. Its a 2.5 instead of a 3.0 and it has a shorter stroke with a said red line of 8k. Not to mention it doesnt have a insane price tag on it.
I have never dealt with an rb25, but the general consensus is that they are crappy and watered down version of the rb26. That wouldn't stop me from trying one. 1jz is beast, and the 2jz more so. So given the options I would do a 1jz fc. BUT... It would be cooler to grab a late 80's to early 90's cressida and 1/2jz that. 4 doors and light. What a sleeper.
Buy a FC and put a 1j in it. The RB is good but I honestly think the 1j is easier to make power and the fit in an FC easy. I like the RB but the 1j is deffinatly better and when you blow a rod out of it one day you can throw a 2j block under it and call it a day. You end up with an awesome 1.5jz **** is sick.
Im starting to lean towards a FC chassis as well becasue they are easier to find in better shape and for less money!
#12
I talked to a guy who turbo'd his first gen IS300 (click here), which has a 2JZ-GE. I figure if you sorced the motor from an IS300 or any of these cars (Toy. Soarer Lex. SC 300) then it would be cheaper, but you might have to switch out a few parts depending on your power goals.
Personally, I've always wanted to do some crazy swap like a LSx in a Volvo 240 Station wagon, a 2JZ in an old Corolla, an RB or SR motor in an old 3rd gen Skyline, a Cummins turbo diesel or Viper V10 or even better, a 540 cubic inch supercharged MOPAR race motor, any of the formentioned bolted to a beefed up T-56 in a 2nd gen Dodge Dakota like the one I use to have, a Subaru Boxter engine in a Porsche 914, or maybe something crazy like a 'Busa drivetraine in a Porsche Spyder 550 replica.
I have a lot if ideas.
Personally, I've always wanted to do some crazy swap like a LSx in a Volvo 240 Station wagon, a 2JZ in an old Corolla, an RB or SR motor in an old 3rd gen Skyline, a Cummins turbo diesel or Viper V10 or even better, a 540 cubic inch supercharged MOPAR race motor, any of the formentioned bolted to a beefed up T-56 in a 2nd gen Dodge Dakota like the one I use to have, a Subaru Boxter engine in a Porsche 914, or maybe something crazy like a 'Busa drivetraine in a Porsche Spyder 550 replica.
I have a lot if ideas.
#13
Oh, and there was a guy trying to get rid of his LS1 FC for ever on 502StreetScene (a local Louisville forum), but I dont know if he's there anymore.
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well seeing how both the 240z and FC are fairly light chassis, 300-350hp would be enough for starters which is really easy to obtain on both the RB and 1J. The only big difference between a 2JZ-GE and GTE blocks is the GTE got oil squirters/sprayers to help cool down the pistons. (according to Wiki)
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I wanted to add you do not have to go GTE if you can find a good deal on a 1j head or a 2jzgte head just get a 2jzge block and rock out. They both have forged pistons the GE is slightly higher compression and no oil squirter's same rods and crank. All you have to do is run a GTE oil pump for the crank sensor. Or just run a GE all together if you are only shooting for 350-400 that can easily be made on a GE and more if you want it. It is not till you get around the 800whp range the GE runs into problems and only then it is because the distributor gets in the way. If you want a JZ motor just look on craigslist and all that they are there to be found my buddy just got a complete 1j with ecu wiring harness for $700 so don't be the guy that goes on ebay and just buys one unless you cannot find one.
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I wanted to add you do not have to go GTE if you can find a good deal on a 1j head or a 2jzgte head just get a 2jzge block and rock out. They both have forged pistons the GE is slightly higher compression and no oil squirter's same rods and crank. All you have to do is run a GTE oil pump for the crank sensor. Or just run a GE all together if you are only shooting for 350-400 that can easily be made on a GE and more if you want it. It is not till you get around the 800whp range the GE runs into problems and only then it is because the distributor gets in the way. If you want a JZ motor just look on craigslist and all that they are there to be found my buddy just got a complete 1j with ecu wiring harness for $700 so don't be the guy that goes on ebay and just buys one unless you cannot find one.
The only thing Im worried about is the wiring, Tech2 makes a PNP swap harness for the FC chassis but have read that people were having problems with them some time ago. If those kinks have been worked out Ill pick up their harness.
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As far as your power goals I would use a W58 they are good for a solid 450rwhp and are super cheap you can get them for around 200 bucks. If you want more than that go with an R154 out of a MK3 turbo supra they are good for 600 in stock form and more built.
As far as the wiring goes call Dr. Tweak the conversion harness will cost you around 800 bucks but is will be plug and play and ready to go. Do not get excited when you read on his website that the conversion is $500 because I have not found one person to get their harness back for less than $800 yet but no more than $950 and that was a friends harness that was jacked up. Let me know if you need some help finding parts.
As far as the wiring goes call Dr. Tweak the conversion harness will cost you around 800 bucks but is will be plug and play and ready to go. Do not get excited when you read on his website that the conversion is $500 because I have not found one person to get their harness back for less than $800 yet but no more than $950 and that was a friends harness that was jacked up. Let me know if you need some help finding parts.
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As far as your power goals I would use a W58 they are good for a solid 450rwhp and are super cheap you can get them for around 200 bucks. If you want more than that go with an R154 out of a MK3 turbo supra they are good for 600 in stock form and more built.
As far as the wiring goes call Dr. Tweak the conversion harness will cost you around 800 bucks but is will be plug and play and ready to go. Do not get excited when you read on his website that the conversion is $500 because I have not found one person to get their harness back for less than $800 yet but no more than $950 and that was a friends harness that was jacked up. Let me know if you need some help finding parts.
As far as the wiring goes call Dr. Tweak the conversion harness will cost you around 800 bucks but is will be plug and play and ready to go. Do not get excited when you read on his website that the conversion is $500 because I have not found one person to get their harness back for less than $800 yet but no more than $950 and that was a friends harness that was jacked up. Let me know if you need some help finding parts.
The W58 trans bolts right up right? dont you have to change the bell housing on the R154?
Yeah, I dont see my self going over 450 hp. 350 in a FC is more than enough for me to kill myself with. I apreciate that man, How much did you end up spending oun your Turbo manifold?