Picked up a new DD
#4
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I really love that targa/convertible top. Someone needs to make that for the Miata.
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#5
Boost Czar
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I looked up the block off plate and this is warning I got:
DO NOT install this block-off plate unless you have an alternate means of lubricating the engine internals (i.e. pre-mix). DO NOT install this block-off plate unless you have an alternate means of lubricating the engine internals (i.e. pre-mix). DO NOT install this block-off plate unless you have an alternative means to lubricate your engine internals (i.e. premix). Product intended for off road use only.
super cereal?
DO NOT install this block-off plate unless you have an alternate means of lubricating the engine internals (i.e. pre-mix). DO NOT install this block-off plate unless you have an alternate means of lubricating the engine internals (i.e. pre-mix). DO NOT install this block-off plate unless you have an alternative means to lubricate your engine internals (i.e. premix). Product intended for off road use only.
super cereal?
#7
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The leading cause of engine failures in rotary engines is not changing the oil frequently enough or failure of the Oil Metering Pump.
For those of you not familar with rotary engines and OMP's:
The Oil Metering Pump (OMP) pumps oil out of the crankcase and injects it into the lower intake manifold. The purpose of this is to provide lubrication to the apex seals and internal engine components.
The downside of the OMP is two-fold. First, if it fails, there will be no lubrication for the internal seals. Motor goes boom. Second, engine oil isn't meant to burn, so it leaves significant residue.
If the OMP is removed and 2 stroke oil is premixed into the gas (1:100 - 1:120 ratio oil to gas) it will run cleaner. 2 stroke oil is designed to be in the combustion chamber and designed to burn. In the long run, it will actually clean the engine and run better.
The downside of removing the OMP is you have to add the 2 stroke oil at every fill-up. Failure to do so results in engine going boom.
For those of you not familar with rotary engines and OMP's:
The Oil Metering Pump (OMP) pumps oil out of the crankcase and injects it into the lower intake manifold. The purpose of this is to provide lubrication to the apex seals and internal engine components.
The downside of the OMP is two-fold. First, if it fails, there will be no lubrication for the internal seals. Motor goes boom. Second, engine oil isn't meant to burn, so it leaves significant residue.
If the OMP is removed and 2 stroke oil is premixed into the gas (1:100 - 1:120 ratio oil to gas) it will run cleaner. 2 stroke oil is designed to be in the combustion chamber and designed to burn. In the long run, it will actually clean the engine and run better.
The downside of removing the OMP is you have to add the 2 stroke oil at every fill-up. Failure to do so results in engine going boom.
#9
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FWIW, if the OMP fails, the engine will not go boom. It will wear the apex seals and eventually cause a loss ofcompression that will require a rebuild. We actually had an OMP fail on a customer's car and all that was required was new apex seals and of course a gasket kit. No other parts were damaged from the failure.
#12
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FWIW, if the OMP fails, the engine will not go boom. It will wear the apex seals and eventually cause a loss ofcompression that will require a rebuild. We actually had an OMP fail on a customer's car and all that was required was new apex seals and of course a gasket kit. No other parts were damaged from the failure.
At least to me it does.
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Anything that happens to an engine that requires a complete teardown and rebuild is close enough to going boom for me.
Oh, and OMP block off plate and crank angle sensor cover plate are on their way from Pineapple Racing.
#13
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Any reason you are blocking off the OMP? I ran OMP AND premix just to be safe. Guess that is how my turbo rotary lasted over 250k miles, when everyone said it was impossible. Granted it already had ~200k when I got it. When I sold it it still ran pretty strong with decent compression. I did block off everything else though. Rebuilt the OMP and ran new lines and all was well. Except I could never make the damn thing idle correctly, the next owner fixed that.
#15
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The big advantage of removing the OMP is to get the conventional engine oil out of the combustion chamber. Conventional engine oil isn't designed to burn cleanly and leaves significant carbon and ash deposits in the chamber that can easily clog up a port and/or apex seals.
#16
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You should never use semi or full synth oil anyway. Either using the OMP or with the premix method. Use regular oil and change it often.
Btw if you've upgraded, the OMP will be maxed out at some point, so you need to premix anyway.
Btw if you've upgraded, the OMP will be maxed out at some point, so you need to premix anyway.
#17
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Ugh. I bought an 88 rx7 for 900 bucks a couple years ago. It was the biggest pile of rusted broken crap I've ever attempted to restore. Nothing worked, every piece of the plastic interior was broken, and it turned into one big headache/money pit for over a year. I still have no idea why I bought it.
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However, yours looks like it's in quite a bit better shape. Are you planning on throwing in a turbo2 setup in there? Or are you going to boost the NA engine?
![Name: l_403c0e3073818fb6fe779bcf63d3d295.jpg
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However, yours looks like it's in quite a bit better shape. Are you planning on throwing in a turbo2 setup in there? Or are you going to boost the NA engine?
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