LOL, mine was mushroomed over so bad the nut would never have fit back on it. About 5 minutes with my grider solved that issue though, axle/hub worked great. Just be careful with the threads and you're good.

Oh and I may or may not be picking up a 1996 miata with 50k on it this weekend. Its wrecked, but low mileage. I'm going to run the motor and do a wet/dry compression test before I buy it , so we'll see how that goes.

 

Well.. that "95 parts car" i drove 2 hours with a trailer and borrowed truck to pick up ended up being a goddamn 1991. Whatever. Needless to say I didn't buy it. I'd certainly be interested in that 1.8 if you DO decide to part it out. let me know if you come across any motors in the meantime. its a little bit of a trip up there, but I'm going to be up there for snowboarding at least a few times this year ( assuming you guys have better snow than me this year, last year i didn't even make the trip due to CO being weaksauce) .

Anyways sorry to fill your thread with blabber. :P

 

Damn that sucks man. I hate that ****...sellers need to get a clue before they try to sell something. There's a '93 LE for sale here now that's listed as a '94 Only the most recognizable "factory custom" Miata made lol.

I'll definitely let you know if I part it. My neighbor actually expressed interest in it as a whole the other day. I'll have to see if I can/feel like getting it back together after the Torsen swap. I finally did get the driver axle out, but had to take the knuckle with it. Even that was a huge pain in the *** though. The lower bolt was frozen (nut came right off ), and even after soaking it for days with PB, hitting it with a huge Snap-On impact and beating the **** out of it for 30 minutes it wouldn't budge. I broke my 3/8" breaker bar trying to unstick it, finally got it loose with a 1/2" bar and a 4' cheater on the end of that. Goddamn. For giggles I took the knuckle/axle to work last night and put it in the 20 ton press to try to get it apart. Set it up and cranked more pressure on it than I ever have put through that press, sprayed it with more PB, left it overnight. Still wouldn't let go

 

Wow man, that's almost impressive.

Yeah, get the most out of that thing if you can! If it comes to parting though count me in for the motor and rear brake brackets.

 

Will do.

 

Installed my Torsen rear diff on Monday since there was an open lift at work. I decided to take the easy way out on the axles, since I had such a hard time with the donor car, and just pull the knuckles/axles as a whole and swap them out that way. One donor axle needed some TLC to get the nut back on since I had pretty well smashed the end while trying to extract it, but overall it went pretty smoothly. Had all the 1.6 parts out of my car and the new stuff bolted up in about 4 1/2 hours.

Have not had a chance to beat on it much, but it seems like low speed/throttle-on creates oversteer, and medium-high speed/throttle-on creates a little understeer. But I could just be imagining all that.

 

Badass! The torsen was in my opinion one of the best drivability mods i've done. Mine seems to always oversteer, and only really understeers when I drive it like an idiot (which i occasionally do). If i'm driving it proper its mostly neutral with a hint of oversteer when i power into it.

 

Now with more GReddy! Thanks to this ^^^ guy. I'll post pics once it looks pretty, but we all know what these look like anyway. Needs a new tune but feels pretty good at 15psi right now

16g is out awaiting a new manifold and downpipe. Or not, depending on how much the GReddy stuff grows on me while I drag my feet on fabbing something.

 

Virtual Dyno graph of the old 16g (blue) at ~ 13.5psi vs. new-to-me Greddy 15g (red) at ~16psi, after playing with the fuel a little. No timing tweaks yet.

Intake temp was 50* less tonight as opposed to when the 16g was logged but I don't think that would account for this much difference.

 

Looking good, like the car, clean setup.

I am thinking on buying a 96-97, but for now I am hooked on sport quads. That will be my resolution for new year, je je...

 

I bet that extra mid makes it feel much better on the street, amirite?

 

Yar. More of what I wanted my car to be over the last couple of years...less top end and more mid-range paunch punch.

 

Dude, this thing is super clean. I'm trying to get rid of a 90 talon tsi awd, i'll trade you straight up. lol

 

Woo hoo! Happy to see you got some gains from it at least. Here's a virtual dyno on one of the last pulls i did before yanking that setup for you.



Just looked at that log, and this was peaking at 187kpa(16psi at my altitude) and dropping to 162kpa(12.5psi) by redline.

Edit: SPOOLS way better on your car, not just looking at peak boost, but under the curve there. Your car makes 150tq at 3700 rpms and mines barely making 100 at that point. That may say something about the condition of my old 1.6, lol.

Looking at this dyno sheet, i cannot wait to get my 99 1.8 with a t25 in. My car has no torque.

 

Weird that there's that much difference in power from yours to mine. And your compression didn't seem to be that bad overall given the altitude. Either way, I'm satisfied with the purchase May not go back to the 16g! I love being able to break loose in 2nd at will, and the better response has me wetting my pants. I pulled a Mazdaspeed3 by a couple lengths twice the other day...it had an exhaust and a "bigger turbo", whatever that means. Owner was really surprised to see the Hairdresser Hotrod's taillights lol.

 

Hahaha, awesome. I pulled on a brand new 5.0 as well with that turbo kit, he was ashamed that my gay blue car pulled away from him. Altitude is a bitch, even more so for NA cars In the cold I too was losing traction in 2nd. Feels good, cant wait for my new setup and tons of torque.

What does your timing map look like? I can't help but wonder if something else wasn't at play here, although the car did burn oil so maybe the rings weren't holding the best. I STILL suspect valve guide seals were my issue with the 1.6 though.

Here's the 100% uncorrected results of that turbo kit on the dyno. (corrected was 240whp, LOL altitude..)



So that setup was an honest 200whp. Boost spiked around 15psi and settles around 12. My new setup i'm aiming for 250whp UNCORRECTED, so i'm looking for about 50 more whp and tons of torque.

Not to trash your build thread with dynos from my car, but this turbo kit is on your car at this point anyways lol. Here's SAE corrected for reference.

 

Pictars no worky

 

Ooops. Fixed.

 

I'll post up my timing map when I get a chance but here's an overview of WOT: at cruise I'm around 30*, starts dropping at ~2psi fairly linearly to 12* right before peak boost, then I hit peak boost/4200rpm and it drops down to 11* at highest load through about 4700rpm, rising back to 15* by redline. Not really a lot of timing when I look at other maps here, but my knock sensor goes nuts with any more. Still need to figure out if it's phantom or real knock.

My boost is also spiking and dropping like it did on your car...didn't have that issue with the 16g. I pressure sourced the wga before the IC (come at me), and IIRC yours was after. I have not had time to play with it that much, but will be trying to eliminate as much of that as possible.

Once I'm happy with it I'll take it to the DynoDynamics where I did my pre-turbo baseline and post up the results.

 

Timing map. Highest load factor I ever hit is 1.8 so I trimmed the map roughly there...has 5 more rows of resolution that my stock bottom end can't handle lol. You can see that I don't even stress the system that much on this pull...only sees 1.4.



Screen cap of a 3rd gear pull, vertical marker at peak boost/lowest timing.

Edit: Lowest timing is actually 11*...marker is off a hair and indicates 12*.