Thanks man. I had an elbow welded onto the comp housing, in addition to moving the wg actuator mounts and clocking the housing. Cutting a j pipe would probably net you the same result if you find one that points the right direction. I can toss up a better shot of the housing of you are interested.

 

Please. I have two j pipes one bends to the side a it and the other one is pretty straight. I can't tell if it will clear the manifold until it arrives but they look pretty close.

 

Ok I'll dig something up when I get home.

 

Here are a few pics. This one shows an elbow that's welded on like mine, but this is not the housing I'm using...just test fitting with one here.



This one shows how much my housing is clocked, and where the alternate wga bolt point needed to be. It was really close to the two bolt flange.



This one shows you from underneath where the 90* silicone elbow off the comp housing points.

 

FM Level 1 clutch kit just walked in the door today. Also picked up the rear main and tranny input/output seals, and cover gasket. Now to find time to actually install all of it.

 

Picked up a stock '94 flywheel for $25 and had it surfaced and lightened for $75. Not uber light but shed 3-4 pounds and should help rev a little more freely. Hope to have it in all the car by the middle of February.

 

---- I want that color

 

---- I want your avatar on my face.

 

Still don't have the clutch in...5psi is boring as ---- but hopefully in the next month or so.

Couple of pics to add. I picked up an R-pkg lip from jayc72 and finally installed it, also a decent shot of the engine bay with the newish valve cover. Needs moar wire tuck and I need to ditch that chrome breather tube-to-nowhere and set up a catchcan, but I'm relatively happy with it overall.

 

Clutch went in today! Months of low psi boredom are 500 498 miles from evaporating. Never done it before on the Miata, and tackled it today at the shop with some help from my friend Jack. We R&R'd the trans in 3hrs, and I had another hour or so on each end dealing with some small bits and finally adjusting the clutch play. Hard to believe that the pedal effort is so slight with this FM1...excited to get through the break in mileage and throw it some abuse.

 

The break in period sucks. I need to do my clutch as well. That's the weakest link in my setup right now.

 

Nice car, man.

 

Looks great Matthew!

 

Thanks guys. Work in progress as is everyone else's car, and got more small stuff done this weekend. Best part was this time I smoked a 3lb pork loin while I was wrenching

Sealed up some gaps and repaired my radiator ducting after a run in with a parking curb. Worked on some ducting for the front brakes but ended up tearing it all out later as I was not happy with it. Also wired in a pair of horns I grabbed off a Grand Wagoneer last time I was at the pull n pay, dual tone nautilus shaped ones, not discs. Had no idea how they'd sound but figured it would be louder than the shitty stock horn and was willing to risk the $5 lol. They fit (snugly) between the radiator support and IC core and bolted in at factory points, and are definitely louder. New catch can too with DIY bracket, currently vented but will eventually route back into intake. Or not. Thanks Lars!

Best part of the weekend...I rolled over 500 miles on the FM1 and turned the boost back up Currently around 10psi, going to log and recheck the tune and go for 15ish. Then to the rollers for some numbers.

Horns, one mounted like this on each side.



Catch can

 

That radiator is living on borrowed time.

 

Bump for a sweet car. Checked this car out in person, it's really well put together. Drove it as well, here's my impressions.

1) DSM ecu is tuned spot on. Throttle response off idle is great, much better than my car. I need to work on my tune, bad. After driving his car.

2) you need to fix your brakes, we bailed quickly after driving each others cars - but I totally agree the brakes are spongy. Did you notice mine were firmer when you drove my car? I feel like the pedal had a good 1/8 inch of movement before the brakes did squat.

3) Totally clean car, interiors perfect, exterior is at least a 7/10. Nice *** car.

4) I like my suspension more, but I also think my suspension is harsher over bumps. Mine had less body roll for sure, not certain on the difference in feel over bumps.

5) The shrouding. I didn't see any pics in this thread, but Matthew has some great shrouding going on with that stock rad. Apparently works well.

6) performance. Mine makes torque quicker it seemed, Matts definitely had top end on me. That turbo pulls well.

I'll just leave this here..

 

rleete, radiator looks OK in person...you seeing something I'm not? Or just b/c it's a stocker on a turbo car?

Thanks for that Nate. It was fun to swap cars for a bit. I did end up bleeding my brakes the following week but the pedal feels the same afterwards. Maybe I'll actually pay some place to "power bleed" them and see if that does it. Pads are nowhere near spent so that's not it. No leaks out the back of the master. Maybe a leaky booster line, as I seem to have more pedal on hard decel.

A couple weeks ago I picked up a '94 B package car with 104K for $700 for the Torsen, and finally got it out today. Not a huge pain but would have been easier if my driveway was not gravel. Only thing left to do is get the driver side axle out...****** is in there for keeps. Thinking I'll need to pull the hub assembly and have it pressed out if the PB Blaster does not do anything over the next few days. Or just stop being cheap and buy a new one.

Can't decide whether to part it or toss the 1.6 open rear in it and sell it as a runner.

 

When the top part turns color like that, it means they're getting old. The plastic becomes brittle.

It'll either crack and leak, and you'll make it home to replace it, or the top part will suddenly let go and leave you stranded.

 

Damn man, good steal. Want to sell me the motor? Haha. I found a car locally that I'm trying to buy, but the owner is so damn shady about me going to check it out. Its a wrecked (totaled) 50k mile car and he wants 1k for it. I'm going to offer him 700 and see how that goes.

For the stuck axle, you could always swap the entire hub. I may or may not have done that on my torsen swap. In my defense the hub the axle was stuck in seemed nicer than mine and had lower miles, so why not.

 

Roger that, Roger.

If I part it you can have it cheap! I'm sticking with the mosquito motor for a while. Good solution on the axle...but now that I've mushroomed the end over so much I can't get the nut back on that ship has sailed lol.