I'm back!
#1
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As some of you know I lost the oil pump back in April on the Machine, gears shattered. I finally got off my *** and dropped in my new motor. I had a 94 shortblock with 65k miles with new oil and water pump and a 99 shortblock with 85k sitting around. I went with the 99 again for the slightly higher compression. Decided I'd prefer that over turning the boost up a bit to match the same power level the previous 99 was making. Didn't want the higher air temps associated with higher boost. Started Thursday and finished Saturday. Have yet to do a compression check but even in this 90F+ weather the car feels ******* awesome. My daily driver is an intercooled BEGi S'd 94 at 13psi and it feels NA in comparison.
![](http://www.miatamx5.com/99swap2/99swap2-76.jpg)
pics of removal & shatter oil pump gears here http://www.miatamx5.com/99removal/
pics of install here http://www.miatamx5.com/99swap2/
Next on the agenda is rerouting the charge pipe from the turbo and the intake piping and building a cold air box like the BEGi one.
![](http://www.miatamx5.com/99swap2/99swap2-76.jpg)
pics of removal & shatter oil pump gears here http://www.miatamx5.com/99removal/
pics of install here http://www.miatamx5.com/99swap2/
Next on the agenda is rerouting the charge pipe from the turbo and the intake piping and building a cold air box like the BEGi one.
#4
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well it's like 95 here in Jersey today and my IATs never went north of 100. CLTs never above 190. ebay rad and IC FTW
i didn't buy that header wrap, i think they go for like $90! it came on a car Artie & I bought to part out. It's designed for a header but fits my AbsurdFlow turbo manifold perfectly! My main reason for using it is to hide the surface rust because my dumb procrastinating *** couldn't bring myself to **** it out for ceramic coating while it was off the car. Just didn't want it out of my site. I'll probably have Tim build me another and have that coated so I don't have to go without it. Then sell this to some lucky soul.
i didn't buy that header wrap, i think they go for like $90! it came on a car Artie & I bought to part out. It's designed for a header but fits my AbsurdFlow turbo manifold perfectly! My main reason for using it is to hide the surface rust because my dumb procrastinating *** couldn't bring myself to **** it out for ceramic coating while it was off the car. Just didn't want it out of my site. I'll probably have Tim build me another and have that coated so I don't have to go without it. Then sell this to some lucky soul.
#6
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How does the BEGI intake feel and drive compared to OEM? Is it lighter than the OEM intake? Did it have an effect on air intake temps compared to the OEM intake? Did you have to trim the OEM fans to fit with that radiator, and what swaybar is on the front? Thanks.
I noticed the charcoal canister is removed. Other than removing the obvious can and hoses, what else were you able to remove as a result of no longer using the canister?
I noticed the charcoal canister is removed. Other than removing the obvious can and hoses, what else were you able to remove as a result of no longer using the canister?
#8
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How does the BEGI intake feel and drive compared to OEM? Is it lighter than the OEM intake? Did it have an effect on air intake temps compared to the OEM intake? Did you have to trim the OEM fans to fit with that radiator, and what swaybar is on the front? Thanks.
I noticed the charcoal canister is removed. Other than removing the obvious can and hoses, what else were you able to remove as a result of no longer using the canister?
I noticed the charcoal canister is removed. Other than removing the obvious can and hoses, what else were you able to remove as a result of no longer using the canister?
I'm confused. A turbo feels much different than a stock intake.
#12
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let me start with the most important thing first.
Correction Mr. Party, it was first found on eBay and I ordered one before anyone mentioned a group buy or even the product itself on mt.net. I installed it on my friend Ibtisam's 96. Once an ebay item, always an ebay item.
2 things actually
It's much lighter than the stock intake mani. Driveability it great still even with no IAC. Didn't notice any difference in IATs but really wasn't looking for one. I guess since the throttle body no longer has the coolant lines running through it and I have no EGR it should theoretically be cooler.
No trimming of the OEM fans other than widening the holes a bit since the location of the bungs can be off by 1/8" in any direction. I run stock sway. No need for heavier sway since the car weighs under 2000lbs and I run 375/250 ground controls. There is such a thing as too stiff.
I removed all those solenoids along the passenger side wheel well, the egr nonsense, the switches/relays to the AC.
************************************************** ********
and thank you Artie, Bryan, Jason and Wayne for helping with the project.
2 things actually
- this time I replaced the bolt that I previously removed when removing the AC bracket. Someone is theorizing it could have a lot to do with the oil pumps failing. I cut down the bolt(since it no longer went through the AC bracket) and used it.
- using the stock pulley/harmonic balancer for now. until i can scrape together money for the ATI pulley
How does the BEGI intake feel and drive compared to OEM? Is it lighter than the OEM intake? Did it have an effect on air intake temps compared to the OEM intake? Did you have to trim the OEM fans to fit with that radiator, and what swaybar is on the front? Thanks.
I noticed the charcoal canister is removed. Other than removing the obvious can and hoses, what else were you able to remove as a result of no longer using the canister?
I noticed the charcoal canister is removed. Other than removing the obvious can and hoses, what else were you able to remove as a result of no longer using the canister?
No trimming of the OEM fans other than widening the holes a bit since the location of the bungs can be off by 1/8" in any direction. I run stock sway. No need for heavier sway since the car weighs under 2000lbs and I run 375/250 ground controls. There is such a thing as too stiff.
I removed all those solenoids along the passenger side wheel well, the egr nonsense, the switches/relays to the AC.
************************************************** ********
and thank you Artie, Bryan, Jason and Wayne for helping with the project.
#17
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Damn. That header wrap is gonna make me want to give you a replacement manifold. Ugh.
Looks good though buddy. I need to redo my belts with those fancy new gates blue pieces. Hopefully when you get the $ for the ATI, I will also have money for one and I'll finally get rid of the 1.6 squeaky alternator/waterpump V-belt.
My IATs were around 108-110 on the pocono run.
Looks good though buddy. I need to redo my belts with those fancy new gates blue pieces. Hopefully when you get the $ for the ATI, I will also have money for one and I'll finally get rid of the 1.6 squeaky alternator/waterpump V-belt.
My IATs were around 108-110 on the pocono run.
#18
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Tim was that same ambient temp- 95f? Is that peak in a boosted run?
My IAT was around 104f with a 98f ambient yesterday just driving around. But at the end of a 4th gear 1500-7k rpm 15psi run it peaked at 118. That was last boosted run in about a 40 minutes of datalogging boost. So I know it was hot in the engine bay. And the top mount was surely working against me with all the hot stuff in the engine bay compared to Paul's setup. Definitely think that's where I could take advantage of creating an fresh air source that's not pressurized. Right now I'm just pulling air from the driver's side headlight cracks and hood. But I'm seriously considering drilling holes in the area just under the headlight and adding a shield to block any water.
My IAT was around 104f with a 98f ambient yesterday just driving around. But at the end of a 4th gear 1500-7k rpm 15psi run it peaked at 118. That was last boosted run in about a 40 minutes of datalogging boost. So I know it was hot in the engine bay. And the top mount was surely working against me with all the hot stuff in the engine bay compared to Paul's setup. Definitely think that's where I could take advantage of creating an fresh air source that's not pressurized. Right now I'm just pulling air from the driver's side headlight cracks and hood. But I'm seriously considering drilling holes in the area just under the headlight and adding a shield to block any water.
#19
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Ambient temps were very high. Probably around mid 95's I guess. That was driving around mildly twisty roads about ~45mph, on the gass off the gas type driving. The IATs don't change much in that type of driving as I"m only in boost for a sec or two. I didn't notice how high IATs got in the longer WOT hill climb sections, sorry.
I am normally about 10-15 deg higher than ambient just cruising. My air filters suck hot air and I have no heat sheilding at all.
I am normally about 10-15 deg higher than ambient just cruising. My air filters suck hot air and I have no heat sheilding at all.
#20
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I had to remove my heatshield as it was actually deflecting hot air from my fans directly onto the filter itself. Once the fans kicked on, no matter the ambient temp 70 or 85, the AITs were 100-105.
![](http://boostedmiata.com/new_miata/random/CIMG1511.jpg)
a few days before i put the shield back on, no matter what the ambient temp, that's what the AITs were.
I have a feeling, since i have my NACA duct, the air being fanned and deflected by the filter was causing a high pressure zone at speed. This basically renders the duct useless, as the air has better places to go than inside that mess.
![](http://boostedmiata.com/new_miata/random/CIMG1511.jpg)
a few days before i put the shield back on, no matter what the ambient temp, that's what the AITs were.
I have a feeling, since i have my NACA duct, the air being fanned and deflected by the filter was causing a high pressure zone at speed. This basically renders the duct useless, as the air has better places to go than inside that mess.