I'd like to know what FM thinks they do better than BEGi
#144
I really liked the FM bars when I put them on, huge difference, and I like the adjustability.
Now that I'm trying life with less rear-sway (and 700 lb springs) I went back to the stock rear, and in fact, have a collection of several different stock bars, so I have a wide range covered. No complaints about the front bar though.
Anyone running the expensive end links? It just seems like a lot of money, it's weird to think it'd make a difference
Now that I'm trying life with less rear-sway (and 700 lb springs) I went back to the stock rear, and in fact, have a collection of several different stock bars, so I have a wide range covered. No complaints about the front bar though.
Anyone running the expensive end links? It just seems like a lot of money, it's weird to think it'd make a difference
#145
Abe, i have a set of gearheads endlinks and really like them. taking the pre-load out of the front sway is very noticeable no more pass. side front locking way early.
how do you like the 700/500 set up? i really liked 500/350 with NA RB hollow bar stock rear bar. then went to 700/350 with same sways and it was fun on the track but i couldnt get the car to rotate even trail breaking it was hard to get rotation. now im running 600/425 HUGE NB hollow bar no rear bar i'm still getting used to it, might bring the rear spring rate up a little or put in the NA RB hollow bar again.
how do you like the 700/500 set up? i really liked 500/350 with NA RB hollow bar stock rear bar. then went to 700/350 with same sways and it was fun on the track but i couldnt get the car to rotate even trail breaking it was hard to get rotation. now im running 600/425 HUGE NB hollow bar no rear bar i'm still getting used to it, might bring the rear spring rate up a little or put in the NA RB hollow bar again.
#148
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It all depends on the suspension setup or spring rates. I'd rather have the bigger, lighter hollow bar for all the stiffening I can get considering that its an old street car, which will never be too stiff.
#149
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Put the money toward corner weighting before the links. Actually, I say corner weight before sway bars too. I lucked out with my RB bars, and the car handled perfectly on the soft rear setting.
#152
My set up is fine, but I find Koni's "race" set up to still be under damped, unless I blew them without noticing...
But the little rear sway and soft shocks and FCM bumb stops is SUCH a different car. It doens't feel ricey at all. It feels like a BMW. You never know the road is there, and it just sticks, no matter what. The only issue is there's body roll and the control is... slower, than it could be. Less twitchy, you have to plan before you get to the turn, but I'm convinced it sticks a lot better. No more side-slipping every time there's bumps in a turn.
Basically, I doubled my spring rates and got rid of the AGX's and the car got a LOT softer. So do yourself a favor, get used, blown, cheap konis, rebuild them with stiff valves and it'll feel great and still cost less than stockers.
#153
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My buddy picked up some RB front and rear sways, RB drop springs, and AGXs. I like the control of the car around the course but figured out I could pickup the FM bars and SPAX PSX coilovers for less..
FM sways and SPAX == $695
RB F/R Sways, RB Springs, KYB, Boots/bumpstops == $884.70
FM sways and SPAX == $695
RB F/R Sways, RB Springs, KYB, Boots/bumpstops == $884.70
#154
If you'r just looking for some cheapie AGX's with FM lowering springs on them, I have a set. They are from an NB, but I know they can go on an NA since I've seen them on there before. :--)
Certainly tightens things up, and it's HUGELY better than stock. The full, top to bottom, FM suspension set up at least works well together and is a blast to drive.
Certainly tightens things up, and it's HUGELY better than stock. The full, top to bottom, FM suspension set up at least works well together and is a blast to drive.
#155
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My buddy picked up some RB front and rear sways, RB drop springs, and AGXs. I like the control of the car around the course but figured out I could pickup the FM bars and SPAX PSX coilovers for less..
FM sways and SPAX == $695
RB F/R Sways, RB Springs, KYB, Boots/bumpstops == $884.70
FM sways and SPAX == $695
RB F/R Sways, RB Springs, KYB, Boots/bumpstops == $884.70
#157
I have a set of shocks from fatcat with liner pistons. I LOVE them. I told Shaikh what I was doing with the car had him give me some guidelines and suggestions about what springs and sway bars to run then he built a set of shocks for my set up and (track car not street car) the car is stiff but settles quickly and feels poised best way to describe it is the car feels like its going slower then when on the konis.
Corner balancing will lessen the affects of preload although some one who knows what they are doing will take the preload out of the sway bar when corner balancing the car this assumes that you are in the drivers seat or at least your weight, if you normally drive the car hard with 2 people set the car up with the respective weight in the seats.
What’s happening is if you are driving the car especially solo there is more weight on the left side of the car, hell I’m just under 10% of my cars weight. I found with a friend in the car the pass side lock up was a lot less of an issue. To remove the preload make the passengers side as short as possible (you may have to go back and lengthen it once or twice) then get a friend to help you out, what I do is sit in the car while its on its wheels crank the wheel to one side and my dad adjusts the endlink till it bolts in with out having to move the sway bar I will post more when I get home if I have internet or tomorrow I just got kicked out of work due to the major snowstorm heading our way
Corner balancing will lessen the affects of preload although some one who knows what they are doing will take the preload out of the sway bar when corner balancing the car this assumes that you are in the drivers seat or at least your weight, if you normally drive the car hard with 2 people set the car up with the respective weight in the seats.
What’s happening is if you are driving the car especially solo there is more weight on the left side of the car, hell I’m just under 10% of my cars weight. I found with a friend in the car the pass side lock up was a lot less of an issue. To remove the preload make the passengers side as short as possible (you may have to go back and lengthen it once or twice) then get a friend to help you out, what I do is sit in the car while its on its wheels crank the wheel to one side and my dad adjusts the endlink till it bolts in with out having to move the sway bar I will post more when I get home if I have internet or tomorrow I just got kicked out of work due to the major snowstorm heading our way
#158
I really think I need to take another look at my suspension. I lowered the front of the car just a bit, hoping to stiffen it up, thereby making the back a bit grippier, but I seem to have more tail out issues now than before.
It's got a lot of grip, so I don't know if I'm just being picky, but with the looser (overall) swaybar set up, I dunno, it's weird. It doesn't snap back into re-gripping, it just sort of slides.
I'm describing it pretty poorly. On the bright side, it does hold nice at 120. :-)
#160
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ACK. Thanks for the insight. Back to square one I suppose.
Wow. I feel stupid. Just did a google search for them and found hundreds of bad reviews, can't find anyone that actually likes them. Good thing I didn't order them yet. Looks like I'll spend a few extra dollars and get some Teins or something along that line.
Last edited by elesjuan; 12-13-2007 at 03:40 PM.