okay, it's ready to go:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1338662372


$6.50 each. I was trying to make it 100mm wide so it could slide into a MS case, but the cost doubled. So I made it so it can mount in a diypnp just above the unused area for Q1-Q4, or on the heatsink of the v3.0 board. Only issue is the spacing is slightly off, so i had to just make little pilot holes and you;ll have to drill out for your application.

I haven't sat down and calculated how much heat Q1 is likely to generate, but as cheap insurance, you can improve thermal conductivity through the board by placing a grid of small vias under Q1, to conjoin the upper and lower planes.

Well, that will certainly be a little easier than this:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-i...2018.46.12.jpg

Though I think that on my builds going forward I'll probably just end up using a PID controller. Definite value for people that want a hassle free solution. Props :bigtu:

there's a pad underneath it, should suffice:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1338729230

Advance Auto Parts, yea most of the idiots like that wouldnt know a fast car if they got run over by one. no seriously they think their honda civic with 300,xxx miles. with CAI header and exhaust are fast. :rofl:

On a different note, has anyone here had any luck with the dupli-color paint systems? im considering doing the paint and bodywork myself to save some money.

Without knowing at all, I'm willing to bet that one company went first selling a dispenser sized to fit their towels, and everybody else just kind of followed along like sheep with that size. After all, "If my towels don't fit in his dispenser, he might not buy them."

We don't give enough credit to laziness, inertia and just plain old stupidity in explaining American business and commerce.

So, electrical guys out there. How detrimental would a poor battery ground be on the Miata? I've had an issue with it for years, but it's not something I see often, so I forget about it. The ground cable at the negative terminal is severely frayed with only maybe 1/3 of the strands still attached. Could this be a likely cause of a lot of my issues with engine idle when accessories turn on or off, and other slightly noticeable electrical related things? Shame on me for not fixing this before now, but like I said, I don't look in that area often, so out of sight, out of mind. I'm going to fix this ---- tomorrow.

I bet this is why my main cable from the alternator gets so hot.

Friend had a 40th B-day party. 4 hours of laser tag, followed by a pizza bash. Worn out, but stuffed full and happy. My son (8) scored better than me in about 75% of the games. It was a blast.

NA6C-Guy, I have no idea, but it makes sense to fix it anyway. Certainly won't hurt. Most electrical issues can be traced back to bad grounds, so it's a good start.

Just picked up a brand-new set of NB rear topmounts for $50. Do I need anything else for my '94 or just remove current ones and swap in the new mounts?

You are going to need some rubber bushings and washers to do it right. I just used stuff I had laying around, but I've got lots of nuts and bolts and miscellaneous car parts.

Thanks. Got any pics or does it kind of speak for itself once I have the parts in front of me?

Awesome, thanks y8s

I'm pretty sure I have all those bushings and washers in a bag in my parents basement. I'll be there this weekend to confirm. But they are cheap at rosenthal anyways... or you can use honda bumpstops and splice them up, standard washers, and you'll have FCM mounts.

just be aware that the NA shocks have a much shorter shaft at the top and you'll have to cut down the two rubber bushings to get it even close. Most places that sell the NB top mount kits make a special nut that is really long and reaches down into the rubber where the threads end and has a shoulder to sit above the washer.

I may be wrong but I think they create this nut from a piece of female threaded hex and a lathe. You could hack something similar without the lathe.

I remember some people talking about using some lugnut for the top bolt.


I ran NB tophats with only the lower bushing on the mounts for the same reason as said above. I wanted to go back and cut the bushing in half and run one half on each side of the mount, but I got lazy. I think I put in an order for honda bumpstops do it with that material instead and then ended up selling it all off for my current Flexes.

I'll give you $10 do stuff it all in a flatrate envelope. Rosenthal isn't worth it with shipping for me.

it would all fit in a flat rate small usps box, not an envelope. but let me check this weekend....always forget your in the Neanderthalands.

I C wat u did thar. But awesome, let me know :party: