How (and why) to Ramble on your goat sideways
Boost Pope
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(Reason for replacing: In upgrading to a 1.8 diff and propshaft I needed larger diameter bolts.)
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Do want.
http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2882386006.html
![](http://images.craigslist.org/5Ld5F75He3Gd3I63N2c33b2d3b999bb3a129a.jpg)
http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2882386006.html
Rare 124 chassis wagon powered by a really rare low mileage (115 k) AMG engine & transmission transplanted from a C36 AMG. Not a soccer mom's wagon any more, unless she's Danica Patrick. 3rd row seating folds down as will the middle row seats to make an expansive cargo area. You can camp in this car. Factory roof rack with an included ski/bikeand a receiver hitch to take an included 4 bike carrier make this an impressive weekend warrior machine. Equipment includes tinted windows, MP3 compatible 8 speaker stereo, prewired for an included XM receiver, retractable / removable factory cargo cover/dog net, electric seats & windows, cold A/C, 16" Mercedes factory wheels with great tires. Any new parts needed when swapping the engine were replaced. Mechanic owned, it's in better shape than any other one you could find. New ceramic brake pads for no nasty black dust & squeal typical on most Mercedes. The engine & trans were resealed in the swapping phase, there's not a drip of anything under this car. All new service items were included too, of course. Mobil 1 oil & filter, transmission filter & synthetic fluid, spark plugs. Two front airbags & SRS seatbelts along with ABS brakes & legendary Mercedes body safety designs make this a very safe car for you, friends & family. Full disclosures: the car has 200,000 mile on it. I swear you can't tell by looking. It's a beautiful head turner, inside & out. There's not a single crack in the dashboard. There is some cosmetic cracking in the (real) wood trim piece at the shifter. The window tinting has scratches in a couple of spots, not that you'll really notice, especially while driving. There is a wear spot on the driver's seat where it's practically invisible except when cleaning the car. The body is pretty darned good but you'll see a couple of dings. It's used & meant to be used. The glass is very good, even the Genuine Mercedes factory windshield is only a few months old. Will consider Mercedes trade
Link to more pictures: https://picasaweb.google.com/Grubaug...eat=directlink
Link to more pictures: https://picasaweb.google.com/Grubaug...eat=directlink
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I don't recall anything unusual about the driveshaft bolts I removed from my '92 Miata. They looked liked ordinary 10.9 shouldered bolts to me. Granted, there's nowhere else on the car that I can recall this type of fastener being used, but the ones I bought at ACE hardware had the same physical construction and markings as the ones I removed.
(Reason for replacing: In upgrading to a 1.8 diff and propshaft I needed larger diameter bolts.)
(Reason for replacing: In upgrading to a 1.8 diff and propshaft I needed larger diameter bolts.)
Boost Pope
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iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
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Have you folks been finding bolts with a wider shoulder than this in your propshafts?
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So, it may be that 1.8 and 1.6 driveshaft bolts are different.
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=236576
Interesting. You run a 1.8 diff Joe?
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=236576
Interesting. You run a 1.8 diff Joe?
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I have a particular poster so butt-hurt this is the third time he's gone into my post history and negged everything he could.
You know you win at life (and mt.net) when someone is so butthurt they do that.
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Boost Pope
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iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
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This applies only to the shaft of the bolt. It was something like 6mm on the 1.6 vs. 8mm on the 1.8 (I don't recall the exact dims, but something like that) and while I don't know what the head of the bolt used as OEM on the 1.8 cars looks like, the heads of the bolts which I removed from the 1.6 diff and shaft looked like plain ole 10.9 shouldered bolts of the style I pictured above. I'm also 99% certain that they were OEM, as that car had fairly low mileage and the PO had never really modified anything on it- factory radio, factory daisy-wheels, etc.
I'm pretty sure I still have those bolts in a marked zip-loc bag at home in the garage, and I'll try to find them tonight.
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'Cause I really don't want to do that :(.
Of course, the PO may have replaced the bolts since mine is a high-mileage example. Huh.
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On a more serious note, I think it is more plausible that the PO in my car replaced the driveshaft bolts than the one in your car, so it may just be that the PO used non-OEM bolts - although I've never quite seen bolts like that before in that size, and I find it odd I'm not the only poster in the thread that has seen this.
Boost Pope
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I could be totally wrong for all I know. It's been a couple of years since I've had to pull the propshaft out of a Miata. All I know with certainty is that after I did pull the shaft out of my '92, there was probably a good reason for me to seek out that particular bolt style and install it as the replacement. Heck, for all you know I could just be trolling. (I'm not.)
Circling back around to the original topic, however, every car from which I have ever uncoupled the propshaft from the differential (Miata, Forester, Celica) used a bolt-and-nut method, with a split lockwasher on the nut side. On a Miata, the bolt is inserted from the differential side, such that the head of the bolt faces towards the rear of the car.
Circling back around to the original topic, however, every car from which I have ever uncoupled the propshaft from the differential (Miata, Forester, Celica) used a bolt-and-nut method, with a split lockwasher on the nut side. On a Miata, the bolt is inserted from the differential side, such that the head of the bolt faces towards the rear of the car.
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It's the same for RX7s, and every other Mazda I've ever worked on, and most other Mazda's I would imagine Joe. Nut on front, bolt inserted from rear.