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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 862164)
So yesterday UPS drops my packages off at 2:39pm. These were things that I wan not in a huge hurry to get. Today I have my ID1000's coming in that I need to sign for, so of course UPS probably will not come by till 5 or 6pm.
I get my delivery by 12 PM every day now, pickup at 3:30 sharp. |
Whole milk it is then!
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Originally Posted by mgeoffriau
(Post 862166)
Do you have a sales rep? I had a huge problem with inconsistent delivery and pickup times...delivering at 4:30 PM when I leave the store at 5 PM. I called and complained over and over to my rep until they worked something out with the local depot.
I get my delivery by 12 PM every day now, pickup at 3:30 sharp. |
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 862184)
I get things delivered to my house normally, so no sales rep. Had I known about needing a signature I would have had them sent to work.
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Vicodin and beer have me slightly fucked up right now.
Time to go pick a fight somewhere. |
Hey, Mg, feeling up to the Vash challenge? :wink:
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What?
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I got myself a brand new, tube amplifier, its large and lovely and it smells just like a dream.
Blackstar HT-40. |
I have a mesa boogie coliseum 300
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I'm not a huge milk fan in general (meaning I'd just as soon not sit down and drink a glass of it) however when poured atop cereal I find almond milk to be quite enjoyable. Much better than any of the reduced-fat "real" milks that are commonly available at the supermarket.
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My ship date got pushed at least one week, maybe more. :sad:
Originally Posted by Vashthestampede
(Post 862228)
Vicodin and beer have me slightly fucked up right now.
Time to go pick a fight somewhere.
Originally Posted by dpexp
(Post 862311)
I got myself a brand new, tube amplifier, its large and lovely and it smells just like a dream.
Blackstar HT-40.
Originally Posted by Faeflora
(Post 862315)
I have a mesa boogie coliseum 300
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cruising down the freeway in my supra today, @ 70mph, then all of a sudden a it felt like my wheel went violently out of balance... well I got home, going slowly down my driveway hearing a clanking sound... turns out my aluminum driveshaft sheared one bolt and loosened the other 4. This is when I found out my driveshaft IS aluminum, but it looks like they used inferior bolts, since one seems stretched and at the brink of snapping...
So... ...what should I do? The differential flange isnt threaded, neither is the driveshaft flange, so should I get bolts and nuts, or should I tap threads into the differential flange? |
Just my 2c Pen2...
But that's not something I'd just throw back in with any old set of nuts and bolts. You need to find out why it sheared the bolt, and if any damage was done in the shearing. Secondly, get OEM bolts/nuts for that - it's the only spot on any of my vehicles I make certain to use OEM nuts/bolts on. |
Originally Posted by blaen99
(Post 862408)
Just my 2c Pen2...
But that's not something I'd just throw back in with any old set of nuts and bolts. You need to find out why it sheared the bolt, and if any damage was done in the shearing. Secondly, get OEM bolts/nuts for that - it's the only spot on any of my vehicles I make certain to use OEM nuts/bolts on. I was thinking that aluminum resonates more than the conventional steel shafts. |
Originally Posted by Pen2_the_penguin
(Post 862422)
agreed, I have looked all over the place but couldnt find anything but the thought of torque... what ever idiot installed this shaft used a basic class 8.8 metric bolts, so the failure isnt much of a surprise to me, I am just glad it didnt end in catastrophic failure. It may need something to dampen vibrations if any that run through that shaft, so when I put it back in I think I will use some silicone in between the shaft and the diff.
I was thinking that aluminum resonates more than the conventional steel shafts. |
Originally Posted by Pen2_the_penguin
(Post 862373)
...what should I do? The differential flange isnt threaded, neither is the driveshaft flange, so should I get bolts and nuts, or should I tap threads into the differential flange?
As Bryce said, just find some appropriately-sized class 10.9 bolts and nuts, loom up the proper torque spec for whatever size you end up with, and install 'em. Use split lockwashers on the nut side. |
Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 862439)
Bolts and nuts seems to be the most common method from what I've seen. It's how the Miata driveshaft is held onto the diff. Come to think of it, I'm not sure I've ever seen a threaded hole in a driveshaft or diff input flange.
As Bryce said, just find some appropriately-sized class 10.9 bolts and nuts, loom up the proper torque spec for whatever size you end up with, and install 'em. Use split lockwashers on the nut side. Thanks guys, I love you all <3 |
Originally Posted by Pen2_the_penguin
(Post 862471)
maybe get fancy and get allen head bolts
You want class 10.9 bolts, and nothing else. These will have a silver finish, a hex head and a broad shoulder (like a washer) formed into the base of the head where it contacts the workpiece. |
NO. 18 yr old sluts. NO. BAD. :slap:
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Apparently you can get socket-headed class 12.9 fasteners from mcmaster.com. What a bauce.
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