I fucking love this forum.

I was going to calculate the compressive force by factoring in the angles, and did not want to bother anyone with such intricacies.
But, holy crap, man. That would be awesome.

Edit: I see your ninja edit...

Maybe I'm just not enough of a DIY'er, but I've never really understood the need to cobble together mini-amps and bluetooth dongles and mounting brackets and blanking plates and power sources and all of that.

I spent $55 on one of these Clarion mechless head units and it does exactly what I want -- it pairs with my phone automatically within 5 seconds, has an easy to read display with a big volume knob on the left side, handles hands-free calling, and has USB, aux-in, and SD card ports. And it still gets AM/FM if I run out of digital media to listen to.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

be proud.

When you're shit gets broken into 5 times in 2 years, you learn to start hiding shit in the dash behind blanking plates. I have one of the mechless head units in my truck. I refuse to lock it and i leave the head unit "L keys" in plain view in the center console. Im so sick of replacing door glass, replacing shattered bezels and rewiring the dash stereo connections.

Update:

My sister has informed me that they have just buried both the dog and the guinea pig.

I feel as though a family tradition has been violated.

RIP, Lexi, the bestest little fuzzbutt ever to walk the earth.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d1562f3b90.png

awe man i'm sorry to hear that. Poor thing. :/

Its been dead for years, adding flavor to the ice.

If you head over to my build thread you will see that I want that space for switches and knobs. I just want basic audio input. No display or anything taking up space.

Yeah, should have clarified that. The dog died years ago, they only just now got around to burying it. Been in the freezer below the popsicles the whole time.

Does anyone have an ID1000 handy? I need a measurement of the tophat.

Attachment 237305

I'm looking for how long the straight part of the tophat is. Right before it curves out.

PM NigelT. He could probably take the measurements for you.

Paging @nigelt

I think you need total height of the stack and the height of the rail in relation to the bottom of the manifold injector bosses.

I don't care about that as much. I need to know how deep of holes to ream. I'm going to then set the rail in place and do brackets around that. Or a jig based off the stock rail. don't know yet

I've got those measurements, I'll dig them up this afternoon.

In the meantime, here's what I did for a stereo:
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ef14ee11ee.png

Exactly. So the measurement you are asking for is meaningless, and the one I mentioned is all you need. Do you want to capture the injector between the rail and mani, or float it a little?

No they aren't. I want the rail as low as possible. So it doesn't interfere with the upper manifold.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5b95db841c.jpg
There ya go. Just don't make/sell them ;)

Serious question for northern folk:

Anypony here ever use one of these new-fangled LiIon portable jumper packs?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IQK6LI0?psc=1


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...604e84fb67.png


Do they really maintain a useful charge for many months of storage untouched in a freezing cold trunk?

Asking for a friend whose '04 with a six month old East-Penn battery almost didn't start tonight, despite the temperature being well above 0°F. (Yes, he knows to check the alternator output under load. No, he hasn't done it yet because he can't find his damn Fluke 77 at the moment.)

I guess you are welding the tabs on, that makes sense. Id bet the limitation will be in the extrusion and not the top hat. You could also chamfer it substantially to let the curve drop in a little more.