Somewhat apples to oranges. Foam is more effective against heat from conduction and convection VS. radiant, which is your primarily heat source in summer. There are some good comments here comparing the two:

http://www.norbord.com/na/blog/spray...-pros-and-cons

Something I should mention though, is that radiant works best only in certain climate zones** (1-3 per manufacturers), so if you're outside those, spray-on may be better.

http://tucsonsprayfoaminsulation.com...vs-spray-foam/

(Do note that the likelihood of some bias in each of these links, given their respective position in the industry.)


**Attachment 176318 (see map on page 6)

There's quite a bit to it. Wall or roof? Cathedral or Attic? If attic will the utilities be up there i.e. Furnace, AC etc?

Buyer's Guide to Insulation

We gutted and remodeled a property in NH a few years ago and this consumed quite a bit of time/discussion on the project.

We opted for blown-in fiberglass on the walls and 2nd FL ceiling (12") as the existing framing was 8" (old barn) and it was cost effective.

On the Roof slope (picture a cape roof slope from the eave up past the 2nd FL ceiling we opted for Closed Cell spray-in foam because of the performance especially on the slope. We decided to keep the attic as cool as possible and installed plenty of venting (eave + ridge).

So vapor barrier was applied to the inside of the exterior walls and the underside of the 2nd floor ceiling rafters.

The entire exterior was sheathed in rigid foam 1".

In the summer, there's only a week or so you'd like AC so we installed a whole house fan unit (HV1600 R38 Whole House Fan ) mounted in the middle of the 2nd floor. When you open the downstairs windows the thing moves so much air it'll shut room doors on it's own. Air exchange is something like 10X/Hr.

Probably more than you wanted to know...

Given the context provided by the several previous posts, we can infer the following:

1: Roof.

2: Cathedral (garage with open ceiling).

3: Only utility present is a window A/C unit.


Your experience in the Cincinnati metro area is not relevant to the OP who lives in Charleston, SC. (And I'll disclose that after moving to Mason, OH from southern FL, I was amused by the locals warning me about how hot and humid the summers were in the OH river valley. You middle-eastern folk have no concept of heat & humidity.)

Sorry, thought your "how is compare" (#26139) was a real question relevant to the picture and in keeping with the rambling subject line of the forum. It wasn't Cincinnati anyway. But OK.

:inout:

My lawnmower's Briggs and Stratton plastic engine cover and red plastic fuel can for the lawn mower are covered with mold from the humidity. I can't leave the MOMO in the Miata when I'm not driving it or it will be covered with mold in a week or two.

The dew point in Cincinnati is 61 today. Here it is a ridiculous 75. There is a huge difference in the feel between the two. Charleston is a respectable 70, New York is 65, St. Louis is 65, Los Angeles is 64, Sacramento is 54.

For reference here are pictures of the walls and roof in my garage.

Attachment 176334
Attachment 176335
Attachment 176336

Is the peak of the roof ridge vented? Or the side walls up near the peak? They need to be to allow the heat out.

I don't think so, but I have never looked.

You can put a ridge vent in easy and like he says it'll make a big difference on it's own. Soffit vents also.


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7fce3b913b.jpg

I have soffit and ridge vents.

The AC unit is to big for my window. So I am going to mount it straight into the well.

Is there any point in keeping my miata? It's been in storage in a different country for the past 4 years, haven't seen or touched it in 3. It's completely gutted, engine and gearbox are out and I have all parts for a reliable 160rwhp build (rods, pistons, squaretop manifold, skunk TB, SUB lifters, Rev MS3X, FIC injectors, 949 sport clutch, Fidanza pro-lite fw, etc etc) at my engine shop. No cash and time for it to be rebuilt for the foreseeable future since I attend uni in the UK and only fly back for long weekends to go racing with my team back home. Car has rollbar and bolted in hardtop, decent track suspension. Shell is mostly rust-free since I last checked but has various holes and stuff cut out for track use. Return to street car status and selling it seems like more effort than it is worth. It's costing me a monthly storage fee, no insurance/tax/other crap. I'd hate to just sell it for near scrap price but I also hate knowing it's not being used. What do :hustler:

How much longer will you be over seas? You already paid to store it this long, if you are coming home I would just bite the bullet and keep it.

If you will be away for indeterminate amount of time I would sell. It's a shame you won't have someone to part it out though, because you might make some of your money back then.

For whatever the fuck reason our phone switch is filling up its internal storage (60gb IIRC? The Linux host OS uses like 350~400mb so IDKWTF.) Once the storage is full the system locks down all functions (such as voicemail password resets) until space is freed up. This has happened twice since we put in the new system a couple years ago, but then all of a sudden this is the third time in the last 2 months. I have no root access to the device so once again we submit a ticket to Avaya support so they can clear out the temp files...

It's always fucking Monday, isn't it? :vash:

All this talk of insulation and I just discovered that my thermostat is mounted on a wall with southern exposure and no insulation. My last thermostat, I could manually recalibrate it to compensate for about 3 degree temp difference between the wall and true interior temp. I installed a "Smart" thermostat over the weekend, and it does not allow user calibration. Who designs instruments that the end user cannot calibrate???

Either way, I will be pulling new wire and relocating the Tsat to an interior wall soon.

What thermostat?

What type of server is it? Do you have physical access to the box? Can you have downtime? You can always boot off a live cd, mount the drive, change root password on the drive, then reboot into the system and have root. Avaya might get mad but whatever.

Nest. Apparently the early versions didn't think that you want or need to see the room temperature at all, either.

I honestly don't know. Planning is at least one more year to finish undergrad, maybe pursue a master's degree and then see where ever I find myself employed. I could have it parted out but I'm really not sure I want to sell at this point.

I said switch before, that was inaccurate. Its actually the messaging appliance.
Avaya CMM (Communications Manager Messaging) runs on some bastardized version of *nix with a web front end.
Its in this building yes. Its a physical HP pizza box supplied by Avaya that runs some flavor of virtual machine host that runs the VM that is CMM. The thing is a Black Box as far as I'm concerned. Customers do not have root access to the VM host, the CMM VM (other than the web interface) or the file system therein. I can run reports and get directory sizes so I can SEE the problem, but I can't directly interact with the file system to do anything about it.
I mean we can, we have a backup CMM in another building on campus that will take over but I don't need that headache today. Of the 400 users in this system the 3 that are effected can be locked out of their voicemail while Avaya fixes this, its just annoying as hell that it keeps happening because I LOOOOOOVE submitting SR tickets with Avaya.
I have a feeling that would make them very, very angry ;)