Easy to install. I had better luck in a previous house with a ductless unit I installed in my garage. You have better choices of internal placement.

Not same but to illustrate: https://www.amazon.com/Amvent-Ductle.../dp/B0081HMXHC

You'd need to size for the space obviously.

I was going to say the same thing- more efficient, and better choices for placement.

Note that while the unit linked to above comes pre-filled with refrigerant and uses quick-connect fittings, some come empty and require the use of a vacuum pump and then an R410 filling station after the lines are hooked up.

The garage is about 750square feet which seems to be right between needing 14000btu and 18000btu. It has zero insulation though so I was figuring larger is probably better. The one at lowes just happens to be available today which is sort of why I was looking at it.

I'd love to be your electric provider...

One of the problems with the window unit is it'll be near the floor where the ductless wall unit can be placed higher so you'll get better circulation (IMHO) i.e. cold air is heavier than hot. The fan grids tend to be variable (not sure on all).

But, in general, they are higher priced.

Tough call. Good luck.

The electric co-op I am member of has some of the cheapest power in the state. So that is something I am not to worried about. I honestly don't plan on leaving the AC on all the time or anything. Mostly turn it on an hour or so before I go out into the garage and then shut it off at night. I just want to remove some humidity and cool it off some, not looking to actually keep the garage "cold" continuously. I have been working with just fans, but with the heat index being 110F out right now, fans are not really cutting it when I am out welding.

So far, still looking for a solution...

A lot of examples I come across is with megasquirt, hot iat but running lean...

Just want to be sure before I start investigating on extending the wiring down towards the intercooler piping down below. Get it drilled/welded or whatever and take off the powder coat on the existing piping... Or use the IAT piece found on BEGi's site.

That window unit will improve your life. Do it. Low country has special requirements for managing Summer.

Make sure to study up! :rofl:

True enough.

I bought the biggest window unit that Lowes had. I should be hooking it up tonight or tomorrow once I get some one to help me. Now I am debating installing some insulation. Is it worth doing the sides and not the roof? I have zero desire to get into the rafters to attempt to put insulation up there.

NO, that would be a waste of time if you aren't doing the roof. You could do the roof alone and get a decent return on the effort, but not the walls alone.

Also, if there is any possible way for you to include a radiant barrier under the roof, you will be absolutely amazed at the temp differential.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Reach-Bar...Q&gclsrc=aw.ds

I use ductless minisplits because my "house" is a 140 year old church, and it was the easiest way to retrofit AC. I just installed a second one yesterday.
Do it, but don't use the one linked. You want to find something with a high SEER.
110 units are available now with SEER numbers above 20, which is ultra efficient.
13 is below the energy star threshold.
My electricity bill does not significantly change when running it 24/7 when using AC, but it increases a bit when using the heat pump.
Have 2 extra sets of hands when you install.
Find an AC guy that is willing to work on a unit he didn't install to vacuum out the refrigerant lines before you release the Freon.
It shouldn't cost you more than ~$40

I took note of my IAT with a scanner when I got to a parking garage after work. 183F

Bad... yes?

Only near 100F outside...

Coolant is rock solid at 200F~ 12:00 on gauge.

Tell me more, tell me more. Our upper floor ceilings are insulated in the attic but the attic gets hottt in the summer; there's no insulation on the actual roof. Would I just nail this onto my rafters to create a radiant barrier beneath the roof?

Edit: ooh. yess. I am excite!

I would spend my time and money exhausting the area above the insulation. A good roof mounted exhaust fan and louvers at the base of the roof would do wonders.

So today i decided to check out that exhaust leak..

A weld in the exhaust broke in the......


Are you ready?



The BEGI DOWNPIPE.

There is a joint where the pipe going down meets with the 2nd pipe that goes under the car. Right before the bend there appears to be press fit welded joint and it cracked all the way around.

How old is the downpipe? I mean I wouldn't exactly be mad at BEGI. Sometimes welds fail, there is not a vendor out there for miatas that I have not seen have zero issues ever with cracking welds. I have seen plenty of cracked turbo parts frm FM, Artech, Begi, Absurdflow over the years. It sucks when it happens, but you just take it to an exhaust shop and have them fix it them move on with your life. No miata turbo parts out there are sold at a price point to have perfect welds 100% of the time. You get enough out there with enough miles driven on them and eventually a few will have issues.

Yes, exactly (well, staple it anyway), and it will do the same thing in winter too, preventing the heat from inside the house from escaping out through the roof. For years I saw the little demo kits on the counter at the lumber yard and thought this stuff was just snake oil, until they started requiring it in new construction here. Now, you can actually buy your roof sheathing ply with a foil skin already attached on one side, so there is no extra effort to accomplish the barrier than just sheathing the roof. Even in the summers here, when it is 90*+ outside, you can go into the attic and survive just fine, whereas before, you'd literally be on borrowed time up there. It will cut down on heating costs in winter too. If you have any reasonable access to the underside of your roof, I wouldn't hesitate to do it; creating a radiant barrier is the bomb.

https://www.radiantguard.com/pages/h...adiant-barrier

Myths & Misconceptions | RIMA International




https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...92965d098f.jpg



Even better to do both, but if I had to choose, I'd still do the barrier first. Keeping the heat from building up in the first place negates the whole need for exhausting it.

.

How is compare?

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8b95e87710.png

5 years now. And yes i would expect begis downpipe to last longer than the primo special mexican exhaust shop exhaust seeing that the entire exhaust is half the price of begis downpipe.