How many of you guys have running FI miatas? no, really
#22
I've had the Greddy kit running on the stock computer with 6* timing for 2 years.
Now that I have upgraded everything and picked up MS, I'm going to build it right. I have never had an issue with the car not running, and I have never been left stranded. It's my daily in the Summer.
I wish I would have listened before buying the Greddy. After the MS install the only parts left will be the manifold and turbo. After I get out of college I think I will upgrade to Begi parts.
Now that I have upgraded everything and picked up MS, I'm going to build it right. I have never had an issue with the car not running, and I have never been left stranded. It's my daily in the Summer.
I wish I would have listened before buying the Greddy. After the MS install the only parts left will be the manifold and turbo. After I get out of college I think I will upgrade to Begi parts.
#23
92 with about 130k on it
2k of that are boosted
greddy kit, bt set to 5-6*
clutch masters 35% increase clutch setup
xtd flywheel 9lbs
both clutch and flywheel have 5k on them
etd cross over
stock everything else
i drive my car 20 min every day to work, and some days to school
only problem ive had was heat bubbling the heater core hose,
which i failed to wrap.......
now its all set, runs and drives fine
2k of that are boosted
greddy kit, bt set to 5-6*
clutch masters 35% increase clutch setup
xtd flywheel 9lbs
both clutch and flywheel have 5k on them
etd cross over
stock everything else
i drive my car 20 min every day to work, and some days to school
only problem ive had was heat bubbling the heater core hose,
which i failed to wrap.......
now its all set, runs and drives fine
#24
'91 w/GReddy. 55K on turbo (110K total on car)still running fine@12~15 psi, but making strange(but different) noises when clutch engaged and disengaged. Pulled everything apart. Clutch shot, manifold cracked. Pulled motor apart to check: Pristine inside, surprised that even the thrust bearing is perfect.
Tapped pan, replaced clutch and manifold, Godspeed radiator, big brakes, should be on the road next couple weeks for another 50K trouble free.
Tapped pan, replaced clutch and manifold, Godspeed radiator, big brakes, should be on the road next couple weeks for another 50K trouble free.
#25
Well, i've had 3 reliable boosted miatas. Well, one of them had problems..only after i let someone drive it unattended... but before that it was great.
96
JRSC,FMIC,RX7 injectors,Crank pulley,60mm s/c pulley, SAFC and dyno tuned 10psi w/16* advanced timing across the board
99
JRSC,FMIC,Voodoo BOX, crank pulley,62mm pulley, OBX header, street tuned w/ WB o2, no timing control,8psi
02 SE
FMII,Hydra,2560R,large FMIC, 550cc, 10psi, set on Auto-Tune/base maps from Jeremy at FM (one day going to BPM for 12 psi tune)
All 3 have made MANY long road trips with no problems.
96
JRSC,FMIC,RX7 injectors,Crank pulley,60mm s/c pulley, SAFC and dyno tuned 10psi w/16* advanced timing across the board
99
JRSC,FMIC,Voodoo BOX, crank pulley,62mm pulley, OBX header, street tuned w/ WB o2, no timing control,8psi
02 SE
FMII,Hydra,2560R,large FMIC, 550cc, 10psi, set on Auto-Tune/base maps from Jeremy at FM (one day going to BPM for 12 psi tune)
All 3 have made MANY long road trips with no problems.
#26
8k miles on stock motor and Greddy kit @ 8psi with Begi AFPR 2025, JR Inj Controller, MSD Timing Box, and O2 clamp. The car is now down due to the rear gears failing, but I needed this to get all my extra parts in...so it worked out perfectly to get the project moving in the right direction.
#30
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,494
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I know I can't be alone in saying that 99% of the downtime I've had with my car since going FI was not because something broke, but because I said to myself "Gee, it'd be neat if..." or "I bet I could improve..." followed by several days of cutting, welding, machining, wiring, etc...
Last edited by Joe Perez; 02-19-2008 at 07:47 PM.
#31
Ya, projects are the cause of most of my downtime. I start out with something simple (READ rods and pistons) and end up building something entirely different (I don't think there is anything else I could have possibly replaced with an aftermarket part). So instead of 1 month, it takes 5 months.
#32
I know I can't be alone in saying that 99% of the downtime I've had with my car since going FI was not because something broke, but because I said to myself "Gee, it'd be neat if..." or "I bet I could improve..." followed by several days of cutting, welding, machining, wiring, etc...
(I guess 16 y/o piston rings made for n/a applications just didn't cut it )
But the miatas seem better than that.
Last edited by Niklas; 02-20-2008 at 08:59 PM.
#33
91 greddy 5psi, jim pipes starion IC, ceramic coated tony DP, 1.8 diff, oil cooler, timing 10* advance, act 6 puck.
DD and track rat 180K miles, 60K boosted.
Lost a motor from rocks in the intake, melted some random stuff and 2 brake master cylinders, had studs in the manifold shear, that's about it. All issues have been fixed, waiting for some more track time to see if there is anything else that needs attention.
Pretty reliable given the environment and amount of abuse.
DD and track rat 180K miles, 60K boosted.
Lost a motor from rocks in the intake, melted some random stuff and 2 brake master cylinders, had studs in the manifold shear, that's about it. All issues have been fixed, waiting for some more track time to see if there is anything else that needs attention.
Pretty reliable given the environment and amount of abuse.
#34
I used to have a reliable boosted car. I had a JRSC for three years, but the more power I eeked out of it the less reliable it got... I had insane torque but nothing up top. I'm all motor now and the car is now more fun then it ever has been. I did raise the compression but not so much that I could not go turbo later... If I do get bored with N/A power I think my engine would be perfect for a turbo on the larger side... say a GT2871 at moderate boost, 10-12 PSI... the engine should be good for 300 reliable RWHP, But I dont want the extra complications right now... like the extra underhood heat and cooling issues that could come with that, but when/if the time comes its only a matter of a kit and larger injectors.
#35
96, DIY, ~30K miles, She drives it- I don't get to drive it much, Maybe I'll remember to change the oil this year..
94, Cold Side BRP M45--was a POS for belt reliability, have since re-engineered the belt system - hoping for better this year, Had battery drain issues too, (this system was installed BRP dealer) discovered they taped the wrong wires for the idle relay...(was always on...)
FWIW 03 P5 +50K miles DIY, recently de turboed (85K on OD> time to find something else)Had an O2 wire short out once, and a hose clamp puncture an A/C line but nothing that wasn't my fault.
94, Cold Side BRP M45--was a POS for belt reliability, have since re-engineered the belt system - hoping for better this year, Had battery drain issues too, (this system was installed BRP dealer) discovered they taped the wrong wires for the idle relay...(was always on...)
FWIW 03 P5 +50K miles DIY, recently de turboed (85K on OD> time to find something else)Had an O2 wire short out once, and a hose clamp puncture an A/C line but nothing that wasn't my fault.
#37
Technically I have 3 boosted Miatas.
1) '01 turbo - Trouble free for 30k miles. Literally not one problem. This spring I am pulling off the link piggy and putting in a Hydra.
2) '00 Hotside SC (roots M62) - No real issues except for occasional idle droop. It is my GF's car and she like the turbo much better. The SC is now off the car and I will be selling it. I will likely put a turbo in the car within the next year.
3) '94 SC Twin Scew - Bought the car in December sight unseen (It was Corky Bells prototype car for the MOAB). I hope to pick it up next month when the snow melts and this will be my toy to play with.
1) '01 turbo - Trouble free for 30k miles. Literally not one problem. This spring I am pulling off the link piggy and putting in a Hydra.
2) '00 Hotside SC (roots M62) - No real issues except for occasional idle droop. It is my GF's car and she like the turbo much better. The SC is now off the car and I will be selling it. I will likely put a turbo in the car within the next year.
3) '94 SC Twin Scew - Bought the car in December sight unseen (It was Corky Bells prototype car for the MOAB). I hope to pick it up next month when the snow melts and this will be my toy to play with.
#38
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: high performance all year round california
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I am at around 40k miles boosted so far. Granted I have had tons of issues over the years but thats cause running redline uphill for 5 minutes 6 times a night kept the Manifold nice and busy. But honestly nowa days I don't run it nearly as hard as I use to so its pretty damn reliable.....but everyones definition of "reliable" is different.
#39
93 1.6-116,000 on the clock-? miles on turbo set up
begi S w/ gt2560, megasquirt, 460cc injectors @ 6psi(on paper)- really 10psi(boost creep)
The good- the car turns on
The bad- lc-1 keeps taking a **** on me, just developed odd cooling problem, was rear ended all in the matter of a week or so
updated- As of today the car no longer turns on
begi S w/ gt2560, megasquirt, 460cc injectors @ 6psi(on paper)- really 10psi(boost creep)
The good- the car turns on
The bad- lc-1 keeps taking a **** on me, just developed odd cooling problem, was rear ended all in the matter of a week or so
updated- As of today the car no longer turns on
Last edited by driftbandito; 02-21-2008 at 08:31 PM.