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The Dedicated URABUS Thread
#1001
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,729
Total Cats: 4,126
i did because that's where I was sitting at the time and using like 4FEET of extenstion was easier than moving.
gears still whine in 1st and 2nd, but that's normal.
There's less chatter noise in the trans in general. The gears so ******* butter smooth and easy to shift now. I can put it in first while still at speed, and I dont have to try 7 times to get into reverse. Each time I hit reverse now, I have to double check I didn't go to 4th because it hits it so easy.
I really like this BG syncroshift II.
New alignment is much better in the corners as well.
And I'm very happy how nice/easy this thing is to drive now.
I'd say this job is easier than a miata. It took us a while, cause noob, but it went very well considering it was the first time wrenching on this car.
another pro tip: I grinded down the flange on trans bolt that sits behind the turbo outlet flange because we forgot to put it on before mating the trans to the block. That was easier than pull the trans back off just to get the bolt in place.
also: marking the camber bolt, pulling the two bolts and popping off the ABS sensor might be easier than popping the ball-joint. My drive side would NOT break free and after we decided to just go ahead and do it that way [after wasting too much time trying to separate], I was able to pull out the axle within a few minutes.
I was already just going to max my camber bolts anyway so it didn't really matter and marking the camber position beofre removing takes 2 seconds.
gears still whine in 1st and 2nd, but that's normal.
There's less chatter noise in the trans in general. The gears so ******* butter smooth and easy to shift now. I can put it in first while still at speed, and I dont have to try 7 times to get into reverse. Each time I hit reverse now, I have to double check I didn't go to 4th because it hits it so easy.
I really like this BG syncroshift II.
New alignment is much better in the corners as well.
And I'm very happy how nice/easy this thing is to drive now.
I'd say this job is easier than a miata. It took us a while, cause noob, but it went very well considering it was the first time wrenching on this car.
another pro tip: I grinded down the flange on trans bolt that sits behind the turbo outlet flange because we forgot to put it on before mating the trans to the block. That was easier than pull the trans back off just to get the bolt in place.
also: marking the camber bolt, pulling the two bolts and popping off the ABS sensor might be easier than popping the ball-joint. My drive side would NOT break free and after we decided to just go ahead and do it that way [after wasting too much time trying to separate], I was able to pull out the axle within a few minutes.
I was already just going to max my camber bolts anyway so it didn't really matter and marking the camber position beofre removing takes 2 seconds.
Last edited by Braineack; 03-31-2015 at 12:19 PM.
#1006
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (37)
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Very NorCal
Posts: 10,448
Total Cats: 1,900
Anyone have a spare stock flywheel sitting unused in a shed or garage that'll fit an 04 EJ205? I believe any (non STI) WRX from 02 to 05 would fit, plus some random 2.5 stuff like the FXT "should" interchange, but I'd prefer to go with known fitment before I get crazy. Useable and cheap are the watchwords of the day here.
I'm swapping my clutch soon and I want a spare flywheel that I can get surfaced and ready to go so there are no surprises once I get it all apart. Because DD.
I'm swapping my clutch soon and I want a spare flywheel that I can get surfaced and ready to go so there are no surprises once I get it all apart. Because DD.
#1007
I've got a spare push clutch flywheel, that doesnt help you though. At least for my style flywheel the F1 chromoloy one has been damn good so far, considering it was like just about $30 more expensive than getting my stock flywheel properly resurfaced and I wouldnt have had to wait a week with the car apart for it to be machined.
#1008
The radiator on my 05 Saabaaruu decided it no longer wanted to be my coolant slave and threw up all over the fans which sprayed coolant on the engine and belts. The awesome part was sitting at a light squealing with smoke pouring from the hood scoop with people looking at me 'like OMG'.
Mishimoto Radiator ordered and now in. Fits well, holds coolant and is shiny.
Prolly need to do Clutch at some point...don't wanna but prolly have to.
Mishimoto Radiator ordered and now in. Fits well, holds coolant and is shiny.
Prolly need to do Clutch at some point...don't wanna but prolly have to.
#1012
No its really not that bad.
Remove battery and air pump
Drain coolant
remove radiator
undo like 4 big electrical connectors and the alternator wire
remove acc belts, unbolt ps and ac pump from motor and set off the sides of engine bay
remove downpipe and disconnect air intake at turbo inlet
remove tmic or remove fmic hoses
disconnect fuel lines
attache hoist
unbolt engine mounts from subframe (cursing happened here because of rust and whiteline sway bar clearance) and pitch stop mount
for pull clutch only, disconnect clutch fork
undo tranny bolts
lift the engine mount studs out of subframe
hammer wedge shaped **** into the crack between the tranny and engine for a few hours until the two pop apart
pull engine out
change your mounts, spark plugs, timing belt, oil pickup, clutch, flywheel, and anything else you can think of while is out
polish your clutch fork pivot
anti sieze the **** out of the tranny to engine mounting surface so if you have to do it again it'll only take like 2 hours
install is reverse of removal
Remove battery and air pump
Drain coolant
remove radiator
undo like 4 big electrical connectors and the alternator wire
remove acc belts, unbolt ps and ac pump from motor and set off the sides of engine bay
remove downpipe and disconnect air intake at turbo inlet
remove tmic or remove fmic hoses
disconnect fuel lines
attache hoist
unbolt engine mounts from subframe (cursing happened here because of rust and whiteline sway bar clearance) and pitch stop mount
for pull clutch only, disconnect clutch fork
undo tranny bolts
lift the engine mount studs out of subframe
hammer wedge shaped **** into the crack between the tranny and engine for a few hours until the two pop apart
pull engine out
change your mounts, spark plugs, timing belt, oil pickup, clutch, flywheel, and anything else you can think of while is out
polish your clutch fork pivot
anti sieze the **** out of the tranny to engine mounting surface so if you have to do it again it'll only take like 2 hours
install is reverse of removal
#1013
DO NOT LISTEN to this silly method /\
The only time it makes sense to pull engine is if you want to do literally all the maint and inspect/replace every consumable.
I just did the clutch in his car like last year, so it will come apart easily because I lubed the pins like a boss.
He's only replacing clutch cause it's too hardcore, not cause it's toast.
Gordon when you're ready to do it I will walk you through it, just like I did Braineak, and hundreds of others.
Lift isn't a deal breaker, but the job will be 200% easier with one. And really, it's not that hard.
The only time it makes sense to pull engine is if you want to do literally all the maint and inspect/replace every consumable.
I just did the clutch in his car like last year, so it will come apart easily because I lubed the pins like a boss.
He's only replacing clutch cause it's too hardcore, not cause it's toast.
Gordon when you're ready to do it I will walk you through it, just like I did Braineak, and hundreds of others.
Lift isn't a deal breaker, but the job will be 200% easier with one. And really, it's not that hard.
#1014
Pulling the tranny is such a pita though. Got to realign the front end and put new tranny fluid in. Pulling the drivesahft is also a pita. You also dont get the option to change the oil pump pickup when you pull the tranny, you're also much more likely to tear an axle boot and have to at least replace the boot.
#1015
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (37)
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Very NorCal
Posts: 10,448
Total Cats: 1,900
Good thing Gesso has a lift!
#1019
My bugeye has developed a nasty clutch shudder when not fully warmed up. It takes several miles before it returns to normal. I have tried changing the revs higher/lower and changed the amount of time slipping. Nothing works. I just have to wait till it gets nice and toasty till i can drive it like i am not just learning to drive a stick. When i say shudder, i mean full on **** is shaking like ALLTHESHAKES.
Tonight i am going to print up signs and try jumping on the hood/roof with my hands up. I will also try ventilating the windows with a traffic cone to see if that helps.
Tonight i am going to print up signs and try jumping on the hood/roof with my hands up. I will also try ventilating the windows with a traffic cone to see if that helps.