View Poll Results: Do we need a Subaru Subforum?
Yes! We need this!
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0
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No! It's not a Miata and I don't care!
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The Dedicated URABUS Thread
#401
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Another noise from the clutch pedal. Can't figure this one out, but it's loud and annoying and makes me wanna buy a GM.
is this a cracked firewall? other videos make me think so. I see a little movement on the clutch master.
is this a cracked firewall? other videos make me think so. I see a little movement on the clutch master.
Last edited by Braineack; 10-25-2014 at 04:33 PM.
#404
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like between the clutch bracket and firewall that broke apart?
seriously, im fixing this and then selling it.
#406
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Yeah, I'll fix it next weekend, then I highly consider trading it in.
My commute is too long for a rugged, rattly, noisy, gas-guzzling vehicle.
My commute is too long for a rugged, rattly, noisy, gas-guzzling vehicle.
Last edited by Braineack; 10-26-2014 at 08:58 AM.
#412
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Jesus Christ. Even the stuff the vendors and mods post over at a certain BRZ/FR-S/GT-86 forums is downright disappointing and terrifying.
Ducting your brakes for track work makes the rotors heat check more quickly?
God I love my BRZ (got it last Friday) but why is it owned by complete and utter ******* tools?
Ducting your brakes for track work makes the rotors heat check more quickly?
God I love my BRZ (got it last Friday) but why is it owned by complete and utter ******* tools?
#413
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Jesus Christ. Even the stuff the vendors and mods post over at a certain BRZ/FR-S/GT-86 forums is downright disappointing and terrifying.
Ducting your brakes for track work makes the rotors heat check more quickly?
God I love my BRZ (got it last Friday) but why is it owned by complete and utter ******* tools?
Ducting your brakes for track work makes the rotors heat check more quickly?
God I love my BRZ (got it last Friday) but why is it owned by complete and utter ******* tools?
#418
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Did the spot weld fix but the noise is actually coming directly from the TOB. Trying to figure out a way to grease the input shaft and stuff from the dust boot. Any ideas other than dropping the trans and replacing the clutch and tob?
I bought a newer car so I didnt have to do this kind of work.
wondering if i just need to get grease in the hinges like this guy suggests: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...9&postcount=15
but mine is like this right? http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNj...UJM-A/$_57.JPG
Sidenote: my IC pipes were completely loose when I pulled it. That's annoying.
I bought a newer car so I didnt have to do this kind of work.
wondering if i just need to get grease in the hinges like this guy suggests: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...9&postcount=15
but mine is like this right? http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNj...UJM-A/$_57.JPG
Sidenote: my IC pipes were completely loose when I pulled it. That's annoying.
Last edited by Braineack; 11-01-2014 at 02:10 PM.
#419
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Seems like when I started the car back up and drove it was completely silent and smooth. No idea why, not going to think about it.
Bracket spot weld fix took under an hour. Figuring out squeak took me over 2 or so.
Bonus: I fixed some of my rattles while I was up in there. Two major ones were the A pillar covers rattling against the dash, so I just stuffed shop rags up in them to fill the void and prevent them from being able to move/rattle.
I dont hate the car as much again.
Bracket spot weld fix took under an hour. Figuring out squeak took me over 2 or so.
Bonus: I fixed some of my rattles while I was up in there. Two major ones were the A pillar covers rattling against the dash, so I just stuffed shop rags up in them to fill the void and prevent them from being able to move/rattle.
I dont hate the car as much again.