DD won't start. Any clues? (maybe electrical short)
#61
I am going to stick with it being a bad contact somewhere or possibly the main relay. I don't think it would be the ignition switch as it would seem that it would go back to acting normal on everything but start if it was messed up and not need to undo the battery to reset it.
Try turning the key to the run position and running a hot wire directly to the starter solinoid and see if it turns over if you have room to reach down there.
Try turning the key to the run position and running a hot wire directly to the starter solinoid and see if it turns over if you have room to reach down there.
#67
I am telling you that is exact same thing, to the letter, happened to our bus and the positive lead to the starter had a layer of gunk under it that we couldn't see.
That wouldn't cause all the other power to cut off though.
#68
Synopsis:
Brainy: Wutz wrong wit mah car guyth?
Rev: Battery
y8s: Battery
18psi: Battery
me: Battery
curly: Battery
Joe: Battery
pusha: Battery
your mother: Battery
everybody's brother: Battery
Brain: No, can't be the battery holmes u c, cuz it'sa chargin' an haz voltz.
Brainy: Wutz wrong wit mah car guyth?
Rev: Battery
y8s: Battery
18psi: Battery
me: Battery
curly: Battery
Joe: Battery
pusha: Battery
your mother: Battery
everybody's brother: Battery
Brain: No, can't be the battery holmes u c, cuz it'sa chargin' an haz voltz.
I've seen brain hang out at cr.net... maybe he's turning into one of them.
Just shooting from the hip. If you can't find it to be anything power related consider it could be something cluster related. 3rd generation locksmith here and I've seen a lot of random crap happen with instrument clusters/computers/immobilizers. Most cars with immobilizers have security lights but lets say the "receiver" dies... it doesn't always recognize it as a fault code. just doesn't read the "chip" (transponder) in your key. In turn not getting the "password" from the key to give it the go ahead.... not sure if my words are useful but when I first read this thread and saw the video that was the first thing I thought of. I don't think it's the immobilizer specifically just a possibility. The cluster and computer would be just as suspect to me. I'd start with the battery and relays first as well and cover the basics but anyway ....
#69
Boost Czar
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So did you just look at this from the outside and not take the nut off?
I am telling you that is exact same thing, to the letter, happened to our bus and the positive lead to the starter had a layer of gunk under it that we couldn't see.
That wouldn't cause all the other power to cut off though.
I am telling you that is exact same thing, to the letter, happened to our bus and the positive lead to the starter had a layer of gunk under it that we couldn't see.
That wouldn't cause all the other power to cut off though.
Me: Cluster/Immobilizer?
I've seen brain hang out at cr.net... maybe he's turning into one of them.
Just shooting from the hip. If you can't find it to be anything power related consider it could be something cluster related. 3rd generation locksmith here and I've seen a lot of random crap happen with instrument clusters/computers/immobilizers. Most cars with immobilizers have security lights but lets say the "receiver" dies... it doesn't always recognize it as a fault code. just doesn't read the "chip" (transponder) in your key. In turn not getting the "password" from the key to give it the go ahead.... not sure if my words are useful but when I first read this thread and saw the video that was the first thing I thought of. I don't think it's the immobilizer specifically just a possibility. The cluster and computer would be just as suspect to me. I'd start with the battery and relays first as well and cover the basics but anyway ....
I've seen brain hang out at cr.net... maybe he's turning into one of them.
Just shooting from the hip. If you can't find it to be anything power related consider it could be something cluster related. 3rd generation locksmith here and I've seen a lot of random crap happen with instrument clusters/computers/immobilizers. Most cars with immobilizers have security lights but lets say the "receiver" dies... it doesn't always recognize it as a fault code. just doesn't read the "chip" (transponder) in your key. In turn not getting the "password" from the key to give it the go ahead.... not sure if my words are useful but when I first read this thread and saw the video that was the first thing I thought of. I don't think it's the immobilizer specifically just a possibility. The cluster and computer would be just as suspect to me. I'd start with the battery and relays first as well and cover the basics but anyway ....
#71
Cabin lights came on.
Dash lights came on.
Door chime was chiming.
headlights worked.
turn signals worked.
Crank the ignition and...
nothing happened, I lost all power to everything.
Cabin lights stopped working.
Dash lights stopped working.
Door chime stopped working.
headlights stopped working.
turn signals stopped working.
I pull the postive lead off the battery, put it back on and low and behold the power comes back on, try it again, and lose everything again. Battery voltage stays at 12.5v.
Dash lights came on.
Door chime was chiming.
headlights worked.
turn signals worked.
Crank the ignition and...
nothing happened, I lost all power to everything.
Cabin lights stopped working.
Dash lights stopped working.
Door chime stopped working.
headlights stopped working.
turn signals stopped working.
I pull the postive lead off the battery, put it back on and low and behold the power comes back on, try it again, and lose everything again. Battery voltage stays at 12.5v.
Before you repeat your steps, try this.
DMM positive lead to positive terminal only, not battery cable, or end.(leave everything hooked up, and only touch the center of the terminal.
DMM negative lead to engine ground (anywhere), not battery.
It should read the same as if you just tested the battery normally on positive, and negative terminals. ~12v-14v
Do the test again after you disconnect and reconnect battery, and run through your sequence to get everything off again.
What is your findings.
#80
You need better contact than that. I think, if all your main positive lines check out ok, then it is your battery. The setup you are using with the miata battery should not eliminate the battery as the cause. Did they load test the battery when you took it in or just say it was giving 12v back?