I have recently sent my Hydra back to California due to an issue not being able to calibrate my WBO2.

Durring the down time I replaced all of my vacuum lines.

The issue I am having now is kind of puzzling to me. (I did not have this problem before hand)

The car when I first start driving it I can go into boost once or twice and hit my targe PSI. After that It will only go upto 5psi. Even beyond that it has been sparadic. Sometimes it won't work at first but If I drive for a while it may just decide to start working.

I really don't want to buy a new EBC because I'm really not 100% convinced that it has malfunctioned and is the problem.

The obvious things would be to check the vacuum lines but I can't find anything wrong with it. Is it possible that one of the lines has collapsed internially once the car gets warmed up?

Is it possible that something that was in the ECU before that was soldered is not getting a good connection when warmed up and causing this issue?

Any ideas/thoughts would be appreciated.

 

I assume your WG spring is 5psi?

I would check the power to your soleniod- check the connectors.

 

Yes the WG is 5PSI. It is a new part last one got damaged and had a hole in it (long story)

The soleniod is getting power because it does work from time to time. Mostly it just works once then doesn't any more. Sometimes it will work at first then stop working then work again.

But I will double check the wiring when I get home later tonight.

 

Also check your vacuum hoses and all connecting points. I dunno what type of WG you have but if you have a tial gate, the barb could be loose there too.

 

(This is my Seinfield post) <A lot to do about nothing>

All of the connections and hoses are secured properly. I haven't had a chance to check the soleniod as I don't have a soldering gun and don't feel like cutting the wires (As if it would matter at this point since its not working) Even though it seems like before when I would rev the motor I could see it move, which it didn't.

I did also replace all my exhaust manifold studs and it has that BEGI split exhaust DP so I've had issues with the WG door getting stuck open or closed. I also checked that and that was not the case. So after fighting with that for an hour I got that arm stuck wide open and had to loosen all my nuts to get it back loose again so I could attatch my internal WG....I really hate that one stud on the bottom such a pain in the *** to get to.

Apparently I have checked all of the things that I didn't need to check and the one thing that I need to check I haven't. I guess I'm to much of a tard to do the one thing that I knew I should have done first because I don't want to have to pay for a $50 soleniod. So I'm just avoiding the truth at least for now.....

 

You can't handle the truth!

 

 

Well I think the solenoid is toast. With the key on both wires have power. When i ground the one wire it makes a click noise but I think the red piece should pop up and it doesn't I'll try to post a pic of it

 

The Hose I'm NOT holding goes to the wastegate.


As you can see I decided to take it apart to see if could lubricate it or see any internial damage. Nothing to lubricate and I guess it looks ok

 

So, I spoke to Jermey at FM.

My next two courses of action is:

1: Take the hoses off and see if I can blow through the solenoid.

2: to test the solenoid by changing a setting on my 2D-PWMMAP> PWMMAP2 (Wastegate) under the 0% collum change it to 50% and see if the solenoid is clicking.

To bad I probably won't be able to do that until tomorrow at best :-\

 

Step1 - 1: Take the hoses off and see if I can blow through the solenoid.

I was able to blow through the hose no problem, I put my finger over the hole and no leaks.

Step2 - 2: to test the solenoid by changing a setting on my 2D-PWMMAP> PWMMAP2 (Wastegate) under the 0% collum change it to 50% and see if the solenoid is clicking.

I did this and it made a clicking noise I could hear it working. (Which means its wired in correctly and getting infor from the ECU) However, it wasn't a single click it was like clickity clickity clickity really fast.

So I'm not sure what the hell is going on now. It seems like this would be easier to diagnose but maybe I'm looking at the wrong part...

 

Well, after working on the LeMons car I decided to get a manual boost gauge and put it in the car. It works just fine 10PSI steady right off the bat. Pointless to go any higher as its been raining for two days and the tires would break loose before I even got to 10PSI. But hey its kind of fun driving strait on the road with a nice little pitch from the torsen :-)

I guess since I've pretty much eliminated anything Mechanical and anything eletrical and coming from the ECU. The only thing I can conclude is that the EBC is dead :-(

Oh well that thing was a PITA anyway. But boost gear trim was nice

 

E-mail from Jeremy at FM

Ok, so it sounds like it's all set right and the issue is tuning the Map 2 curve & boost onset RPM. Fast clicking is correct- it's a duty cycle. Like I said, Hydra EBC is unfortunately a PITA.

So. its working its just not working
Just weird that it was never a pain in the *** like this before. As a matter of fact its always worked quite well for me. Other than ambient temp. changes causing more or less boost.

Since its working to this point I'm going to put power to it again and blow into the hoses and see if it blocks any of the air like it should. I'll try to get to it later this week or next week.

 

OK so some basic tests--

with the vehicle running, disconnect the source line that goes to the solenoid. When you do that, does the engine rpm raise and is air being sucked through the hose?

Also, can you post your settings for your EBC maps? I will be setting up those maps soon on my 2.6 and am curious how you have yours. FWIW on hydra 2.5 my map started up around 100% vs down around 0%. I think I had things wired in reverse..

 

Here is my base map.

My 2D>PWM2 settings haven't changed much. Typically it gives me about 10-12 PSI

 

Tards Log: Stardate 4-26-10:21:26.25 updated thread post#16


Ok, apparently I am a tard.

So, I finally get around to putting my computer back on the car and testing the solenoid once again. I hook the vacuum hoses to both ends and activate the solenoid with the Hydra cell 0 set to "50" I try to blow through the hose and I can't. Obviously the solenoid is working for the life of my I can't figure out why it wasn't working correctly. Perhaps I had the hoses on backwards. ::Shrugs Shoulders::

I guess I need to go search out a diagram on how to hook that thing up, because I don't remember which way is the correct way.