Originally Posted by Rafa
(Post 377502)
Travis, I pmed you yesterday so maybe you're referring to me when you mention "another country"; just to clarify: I keep a paypal account and a forwarding address in Miami for shipping purposes. ;)
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Originally Posted by TravisR
(Post 377512)
Sounds good, how do you get it over to the island??
Boat full of football players usually. |
Originally Posted by TravisR
(Post 377512)
Well it was you, and a couple other people that got me thinking about duties and high shipping costs. Sounds good, how do you get it over to the island??
Travis, why is it that I can run an MS on a 96/97 as a full standalone and I can't do the same with the Adpatronic? If you figure that one out, I may end up selling my AEM and buying your Adaptronic still ;) |
Originally Posted by BenR
(Post 377526)
Boat full of football players usually.
lol; if I answer with the truth, I'm going to sound really insensitive. |
Originally Posted by Stein
(Post 377287)
All of the codes are back along with a new one P0300 Random cylinder misfire.
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Originally Posted by Rafa
(Post 377529)
Different local shipping companies have set up base in Miami. They assign you an address along with your own member number and they take care of shipping anything you order to you. They take care of customs too. One has to pay for any resulting duties that may occur of course. FWIW, there's an agreement between those forwarding companies and local customs: anything you buy with a value of $200 or less, doesn't pay import duties ;)
Travis, why is it that I can run an MS on a 96/97 as a full standalone and I can't do the same with the Adpatronic? If you figure that one out, I may end up selling my AEM and buying your Adaptronic still ;) |
Originally Posted by TravisR
(Post 377578)
Does the 96/97 have the NB style alternator that has to be controlled? Thats the real problem. If it has the same alternator as the 94-95 then it can run full standalone.
There are lots of ways of dealing with this though. Easy as installing a NA alternator on your NB or adding an OTM or aftermarket voltage reg to your NB. This is only a small hurdle. |
Ok, I knew the computer and harness was updated to the NB style evidently in 96/97 but wasn't sure about anything else. So Rafa it works full standalone.
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Originally Posted by Ben
(Post 377540)
That is the same code I get with the Xede. The stock PCM does not like the way that the xede adjusts timing. If I zero out timing offset, or if I run little timing offset, then I do not get the CEL. 3 or 4 degrees seems to be enough to trigger it. So I'd wager that your stock PCM does not like the timing signals it's receiving for the AIT, CLT, and airflow variables it's being fed (semi-wild ass guess).
Temporarily for emissions So if we don't want random cylinder misfire then load a stock ignition map, set the EBC=0 duty cycle, and it will be ok? |
Originally Posted by TravisR
(Post 377578)
Does the 96/97 have the NB style alternator that has to be controlled? Thats the real problem. If it has the same alternator as the 94-95 then it can run full standalone.
Shit; I'm beginning to hate you! ;) Let me see if I can do something about this. |
Originally Posted by Rafa
(Post 377602)
Shit; I'm beginning to hate you! ;)
Let me see if I can do something about this. |
Stein, your adaptronic controls the A/C.
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Originally Posted by TravisR
(Post 377588)
Temporarily for emissions
So if we don't want random cylinder misfire then load a stock ignition map, set the EBC=0 duty cycle, and it will be ok? Other people have reported a code for MAF overflow. I've not seen this code, but it can be avoided by staying out of boost. To pass emissions, I reset my timing table to stock, cleared the P0300, and drove until enough readiness monitors had completed to ensure a pass. I can have 2 not readys in my state. |
Originally Posted by Stein
(Post 377629)
Rafa, you don't have AC do you? I think you will lose AC if you go standalone as well.
I can't live without A/C. It's 85 degrees during the day here at this time of the year! I think Travis is right; I think the Adaptronic can handle it. I'd much rather install this in parallel than lose my A/C. |
Why are you going Adap Rafa? Is your AEM not working well?
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Quick question guys.
99 Miata, Im not going to run the OEM harness, everything on the car will be eliminated that the OEM computer should need to control including the computer controlled alternator (Ill be running a 94-97 alternator), A/C, Emissions, ETC. Is the Adaptronic able to be a full standalone in this situation? Can it handle all of the duties if those areas are removed? |
How does this compare to the AEM? That is what I was previously looking at since the Hydra was more than I was wanting to spend, but it appears the Adaptronic being almost as nice as the Hydra at 1/2 the price might be the better bet.
I have a lot to learn in the ECU department, so forgive the newbie questions. Can I run an external switch to allow me to switch between two different maps? My plan is to drive to events on 91, drain the tanks and run HOT 114-116 on an aggressive map and then drive home on 91. Can this be done with this ECU. I wasn't planning to spend this sort of money right now, but I'm on the fence as it's such a good deal. Help convince me. FYI, I'm building a +300whp SSM 1.2L Whipple SC'd +20 PSI beast for National AutoX competition. Want to achieve 300rwhp this year too, but my LINK isn't going to cut it. |
Originally Posted by Father LeadFoot
(Post 378083)
How does this compare to the AEM? That is what I was previously looking at since the Hydra was more than I was wanting to spend, but it appears the Adaptronic being almost as nice as the Hydra at 1/2 the price might be the better bet.
I have a lot to learn in the ECU department, so forgive the newbie questions. Can I run an external switch to allow me to switch between two different maps? My plan is to drive to events on 91, drain the tanks and run HOT 114-116 on an aggressive map and then drive home on 91. Can this be done with this ECU. I wasn't planning to spend this sort of money right now, but I'm on the fence as it's such a good deal. Help convince me. FYI, I'm building a +300whp SSM 1.2L Whipple SC'd +20 PSI beast for National AutoX competition. Want to achieve 300rwhp this year too, but my LINK isn't going to cut it. This will do it for you, and not burn a hole in your pocket. All money has to be in by next thursday. No exceptions. |
Originally Posted by Father LeadFoot
(Post 378083)
How does this compare to the AEM? That is what I was previously looking at since the Hydra was more than I was wanting to spend, but it appears the Adaptronic being almost as nice as the Hydra at 1/2 the price might be the better bet.
I have a lot to learn in the ECU department, so forgive the newbie questions. Can I run an external switch to allow me to switch between two different maps? My plan is to drive to events on 91, drain the tanks and run HOT 114-116 on an aggressive map and then drive home on 91. Can this be done with this ECU. THe adaptronic has two fuel and two ignition maps. you can use either OR you can set up a switch that adds/removes a percentage of fuel and/or timing. Say for example you get a race gas (or water injection) tuned map and want to retard 5 degrees and enrich 3% from that map-- you can. |
So, how about an 94 that's about to get an 03 motor....do I get the 94 pnp harness and wire the VVT seperately?
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