Took the trip up to York automotive in Mount Airy MD this week to get my miata tuned. A little background on the car.

Begi S1 Shangi kit.. that is now has a garrett 2560 after the china turbo failed after around 1k miles .

RX7 460cc injectors
Ebay manual boost controller
3 inch exhaust and high flow cat from enthuza
mspnp
Everything else was just with the kit

I had the car initially set up at All Aspect in VA Beach area. I thought they did a decent job the car ran and made boost. not very smooth could always tell that the car was not stock by how it drove. I thought this was normal with a turbo car.. with this being my frist try at a turbo.

With the new turbo installed I figured I would take it to another place to see what they could do with it. After York finished up the tune it was night and day difference. The car feels like it came from the factory. it is smooth and runs great! I honestly did not think it would be so much of a difference.

They allowed me to hang out in the shop while they did the tuning. they explained what they were doing and why they were doing it. They asked what my goals were and they added their advice on what would be safe for the car.

We settled on 12psi making around 217hp and 215trq. I know some will think these numbers are low but I am please with the drivability of the car and I think it should be a tune that does not push the car to much.

I will post up the scans of the dyno and AF numbers when I get home. I am not able to pull the data directly from the MSPNP right now with my laptop being dead.

They did let me know that a need a few things for the car.. a new radiator would be nice my intercooler is blocking the stock one. Temp sensor .. and a new thermostat would not hurt either.

EDIT link to link with the msq files https://www.miataturbo.net/ecus-tuning-54/high-idle-65490/ . I am not able to move them right now.

 

this was 217rwhp on Ed's (York) dyno?

that's not too shabby at all. Comparing his dyno to all my dynojet plots, I'd add 12% to that number for a "dynojet corrected" hp number.

that's right where I am on his dyno at 13psi. I have a slightly smaller compressor wheel, so it sounds like you are on point.

 

I'm looking forward to the plots; should be a nice, useable powerband.

I don't see a signature or mention in the post but I might have missed it. What engine is in the car?

 

I am glad to hear you had a good experience, I have heard a number of people complain of the same experience you had at the first dyno. Car doesn't run like stock, etc. Now that it feels nice, it must be a lot more fun to drive regardless of the extra power.

I hate that all these different dynos report different horsepower numbers, so you can't compare numbers from one dyno to another. What if measurements from a ruler were as unreliable depending on what brand of ruler? We wouldn't stand for it.

 

I mean, some have you push a big weighted wheel of concrete, some attach directly to your hub, others have eddy current brakes...

at 12% my 3 different times on York's dyno matches the spool of the probably 30-50 pull I have on a dynojet.

for example:

uncorrected vs. dynojet:



Dynojet was done Nov 19th, York's on April 6th. Setup was the same, but I think this was after going seq fuel and spark and running slightly more boost when i compared the two.


now: corrected vs. dynojet:



this is just with 10% added. The spoolup is very close, but when I do it at 12% it's much better.

I spent a good bit of time coming up with that number and it worked for shueind's setup as well.

ah here with boost plot:



the way it spools and how when the boost crosses near redline so do the power numbers made me happy with this amount of correction.

 

Approx how much does the shop charge for a dyno tuning session like this?

 

That's a decent car.

 

Yeah it was on Eds Dyno. He said that it tends to show lower numbers than most people expect.

My car is a 1.8 94. I need to update my sig... will do that now soon.

They charged me $150. I felt it was a more than reasonable price for the work they did. I think they had the car in the shop for around 2 hours. There was downtime for cool down. This also included them putting on the manual boost controller.. that took like 5 minutes. My car was in running condition when it got there. If your car is running and just needs adjustments i would think it would run around that price.

 

Who did the Megasquirt tuning? Teddy?

 

Yes I believe that is his name

 

Looks fun . Anyone care to comment on AFR from 3200-4000, seems a bit rich to me. Probibly done for extra spool/safety?. Is that something you guys would commonly change to say 11.5/1 or happily leave at 11ish?.

Thanks

 

Seeing your graphs I say damn nig your tq and hp sure takes a huge shiit.

 

I think the graph makes it look worse with the scaling. At 5800 rpm I am ay 217 trq. At
6600 I am at 196. You look at the graph and you think oh ----. But when you look just at the numbers it is not bad. In comparison braineak is at 170 and 130 at the same ponts if I read the graph right. It makes the drop seem to be a closer % than when you look at the graph. I am not saying that is the only reason but might be some of it. Feel free to correct me on my thoughts. I am new to this.

 

still drops off faster at >6300 than I'd like. peak HP should be closer to 6.6-7K.

care to post the msq?

 

Afr feom 3200 to 4000 is not ideal but not a big deal at all.

I noticed how your afr drops despite boost remaining high. While power drops. MS is speed density off a load map or is it off a VE map? If it is off a VE map this woild indicate a VE restriction.

I wonder if maybe you had massive intercooler heatsoak? Or massive timong trim as your car overheated during a pull??? Could determine cause of power crapput by looking at log.

If you are happy with how your car drivea and feels though, do not worry about it. $150 is VERY cheap for a dyno tune. Most places charge a minimum of $400 before dyno charges. You do not want to know how much I paid before I learned how to do it myself. O_o;

 

MSQ - I will get it posted when I can figure out why my laptop will not see the MSPNP.

Even with all my reading there are things I do not understand about the tuning of the car. When they did the tuning they ran it on the dyno under different load and they adjusted the AF to be what they believed to be the right level. How do you tune it to have different peak HP? would it not just ende up being what it is after the AF is set?

How would I tune it to have it peak HP at a different RPM? Just lean it out longer? Sorry for my ignorance on the topic.

The car was heating up pretty good during the tuning and it was on the dyno with cooldown for about an hour. It is possible that heat soak was having an effect. I am not sure.

Ordered a new radiator from godspeed and getting a thermostat and sensor. The sensor i think is causing me some issues. the car is running a very high RPM at idle. A friend of mine said his started doing that when the sensor went bad. it is the sensor on the rear of the engine by the coil.

Also I need to address my LC1 issues. Currently it is not hooked up to the MSPNP and is not reading right.

 

Urgh

Dont worry about changing the power curve. Without mechanical adjustments, there is a "max power" that they surely tuned for.

Honestly, without logs, we will not be able to figure out why the power dropped off. It very well could be the car overheating and timing being pulled.

Good idea about the cooling but dont worry about the tune. It is prob fine.

 

Sorry boss I am a little new to this so some of these things go over my head and I do not undertand what is being asked.

I did not get a log when they were doing the dyno runs so no way to tell if it was heat soak or not. Something I never thought about doing. in the futurei f i do it again and get my laptop working I will have megatune running and get some logs.

 

Ya dont worry. Just drive it

 

So now you can come up to the dyno day when we have it in May. We might even be able to help you out a bit and get your AFR's a little better.